CASTLES exist in Syria and are as magnificent as any in Germany or England.

The Krak des Chevaliers (Castle of the Knights), which we visited during our recent seven-day tour of the country, has been described by author Paul Theroux as the epitome of the dream castle, complete with Crusader art done as frescoes.

Indeed, close your eyes and you can imagine Crusader knights in armour on their horses when you wander around this magnificent castle set at a dizzying 2,300 feet (701m) above sea level.

We got to climb to the highest point of this World Heritage site where we gazed down on moats and a countryside of fields and small villages.

The place is a three-hour car ride from Damascus where we landed the day before. Founded around 2,500 BC, the latter is the capital of Syria and one of the world's oldest inhabited cities.

Mohammad, our guide, whisked us out of the airport with minimal fuss at immigration. As it was a Friday and a public holiday, the streets were quiet and the drive into town was smooth.

Damascus is a mix of old and new, with ancient bazaars and modern office blocks holding their ground.

Despite our 11-hour flight from Singapore via a transit in Dubai, we were game to get acquainted with the attractions straight away. We headed for the National Museum, which serves as a good introduction of Syria with exhibits presented thematically in Pre-Classical, Classical and Islamic sections.

Then, it got interesting when we wandered through a labyrinth of alleys lined with old houses to reach the Umayyad Mosque, one of the great monuments of Islam.

As it was getting dark, we feared there was little daylight to admire the mosque but it was lit up and stood splendid in the night.

The interior of the mosque contains a large number of mosaics and geometric patterns. We strolled among the local residents through a huge courtyard paved in white marble and marvelled at this architectural wonder.

Nothing beats a good meal after a tiring day, which we had at an old Damascus house turned into a restaurant.

A typical meal starts with mezze, an elaborate spread of up to 40 or 50 hors d'oeuvres. The main dishes usually have lamb and chicken, and we finished our dinner with a nice hot cup of flower tea after a treat of Syrian desserts, which are normally coated in nuts and honey.

The cost? About $15 to $20 for a good, decent meal.

Treats, of the historical type, are found in Aleppo, which has been settled for at least eight millennia. The city is 355km away from Damascus and we drove there on the third day of our trip.

We enjoyed a bird's eye view of the city at Aleppo Castle, which is strategically built on a hilltop.

After an idyllic afternoon watching the local folks smoke sisha pipes while having lunch at an open cafe opposite the cathedral, we were ready to hit the souqs (bazaars) in the old part of the city.

Since the 16th century, the souq has superbly nurtured the Arab/Turkish trading traditions and many traditional goods are still traded and transported by old methods. Avoiding the traffic of donkeys and carts are quick skills to be picked up for city-dwellers like us.

The shopkeepers were a joy to watch and bargain with. Their stern looks masked their friendliness and I was glad that I plucked up the courage to ask them to pose for pictures.

Gold, perfumes, antiques and Alladin-style lamps were some of the things that caught our attention. We did not buy much, content to just soak in the atmosphere and converse with the traders via our interpreter.

We decided to give the hammam (Turkish bath) a try at the Hammam Yalbougha-Nasri, one of the largest and certainly most ornate in Syria.

The masseur held on to my hand and led me from one room to another for a bath, sauna and massage.

No trip is complete without a detour to Palmyra, a historical site often compared to the Great Wall of China and Egypt's pyramids. It is relatively unexplored, allowing us to appreciate its original state.

We mounted camels which trotted through the ruins of this extensive oasis city, which was settled as early as the beginning of the second millennium BC.

On our last day, heading from Palmyra to Damascus for home, Mohammad sprang a surprise. We stopped in the middle of the desert, in a spot called Baghdad Cafe.

The owner had moved from Baghdad, Iraq, with his family a long time ago. We discovered some nice handicrafts and paintings and were offered a friendly tour of their nomadic tents.

Now that we are back in Singapore, people would ask about our vacation, and we'd casually say: 'Oh, we also went to Baghdad...'

The writer runs a travel firm which specialises in off-the-beaten-track destinations.

5 things to do

1. Do browse in the souqs. Be part of the Old World, blend in and be overwhelmed by the smells of spices, coffee and perfumes, sights of colourful candies and glittery gold, and sounds of traders shouting out their offers.

All prices are negotiable and bargaining is expected. Treat it as a game and not a fight.

2. Do dine in one of the Ottoman-house restaurants. Built during the Ottoman era and restored by the owners into restaurants for local food, they are a must-go. They are often in an old courtyard amid fountains and lemon trees.

3. Do bring back boxes of Syrian desserts for friends back home. Syrians love sugar and have mastered making a lightweight pastry mixed with an assortment of nuts heavily drenched in honey/rose water. Try all varieties and decide which is best.

4. Do stay in one of the private boutique hotels in Aleppo. Most are converted from historical residences, evoking an Ottoman romance. Rates start from US$120 (S$189) for a double room.

5. Do respect local etiquette. With a few exceptions, non-Muslims are allowed to visit the mosques at specific times. Cloaks can easily be rented for women to wrap around their bodies. Shoes have to be removed.

2 don'ts

1. Don't take close-up pictures of the local residents, especially the women, without asking for permission.

2. Don't wear revealing clothes. Women in spaghetti straps, shorts or tight-fitting clothes are often frowned upon. Conservative casual wear is suitable. Beachwear or shorts should not be worn away from the beach or poolside.