BLESSED are the Taiwanese who need not venture far to have a good time.
In east Taiwan, mountains cover some 63 per cent of a 1,566 km-long coastline. Taiwan's rich history also serves up a legacy of exceptional cuisine, from Sichuan food with tons of fresh chillies to tasty regional delicacies with a Japanese influence.
Such are the first impressions I had of Taiwan.
But Taiwan is much more than this, as I discovered along the way. My driver and guide was one of four million in Taiwan who speaks the Hakka dialect. Despite being at the centre of Mandarin pop culture, only 20 per cent of Taiwan's population speaks Mandarin as its first language. The Taiwanese dialect T'ai-yü, also known as Minnan, is spoken by 70 per cent of the population.
The place we were driving to - Maobitou, or Cat's Nose - is in Kenting National Park at the southernmost tip of Taiwan. A fascinating work of nature, the rocks at Maobitou are believed to have fallen into the sea and eventually formed a shape that resembles a crouching cat.
Maobitou or Cat's Nose at Kenting National Park, is at the southernmost tip of Taiwan.
En route, our first stop was Chiufen, an old mining town where we got a glimpse of the old-fashioned way of life. At the Yilan National Centre for Traditional Arts, replicas of centuryold buildings on historic streets line the 24-ha compound that houses an elaborately carved opera stage.
The next day, we went deeper into the mountain reservation, where 12 different groups of indigenous people (Yuan-chu-min) live. As my driver manoeuvred his way through the steep Taroko Gorge with its limestone formations, he pointed out the eroded caves that bore spiritual meanings for the local tribes, and he told me about their beliefs and traditional practices.
Hualian's gorges are largely the work of Taiwan's 151 rivers and streams, which snake their way to the Pacific Ocean and the Philippine Sea in the south-east. Dotted with natural hot springs, remote shrines and farmlands, the lush mountains make for a great three- or four-day trekking trip, where you can stop at aboriginal villages along the way.
But given my single-minded aim to go to Kenting, which had enthralled me since I saw its photographs, we gave the hike a miss and went straight to Taiwan's first National Park gazetted in 1984.
At Maobitou, ocean sprays and strong winds whipping the rugged coastline greeted us. High mountain peaks rose from behind, rolling into stretches of white sandy beaches. Its twisted coral formation is another reason for its other-worldliness.
I sat for a long time on the rocks, reluctant to leave. But we had to reach our next viewing point at Eluanbi. The 21m-high Eluanbi Lighthouse marks the edge where the Pacific Ocean and the Taiwan Straits meet.
Eluanbi Park spreads over a coral terrain rich in unusual formations, caves, and animal and plant life. Every September, flocks of brown shrike stop here on their migratory journey, and this attracts equally large flocks of birders.
Continuing north-west, we headed for the legendary Alishan Mountains in Nantou, made popular by Mandarin folksongs. Today, Alishan continues to fascinate the urbanites from Kao- Hsiung and T'ai-chung who come in search of cool fresh air and to unwind. Of the hiking options for people with varying levels of fitness, I explored the ascent of Chushan, from where you can watch the sunrise over the surrounding countryside.
Behold the mountains and tranquil waters of Sun Moon Lake.
The contrasting views that I had seen on the trip were mind-blowing, but there was one more place to visit - the famous Sun Moon Lake
On an August afternoon, as I took a long walk through the deep and still bamboo forests surrounding the largest freshwater lake of this island, Sun Moon Lake was one of the most romantic places I had ever visited.
According to one legend, the ancestors of the Alishan people migrated to settle in an area near Sun Moon Lake, which they accidentally discovered while chasing a white deer. Such is the spirit of Taiwan, which unveils itself to a curious traveller delighted by the surprises it springs.
