FAR from the madding crowd that throngs its better known cousins like Stratford-upon-Avon (Shakespeare's birthplace) and Thornton and Haworth in Yorkshire (Bronte country), is the understated gem that is the south-west of England. To fans of Thomas Hardy, this is Wessex, the fictionalised setting for his novels that have become literary classics. Several, such as Far from the Madding Crowd, Jude the Obscure, and the Mayor of Casterbridge, have been made into films or television series.

Wessex was one of the seven Anglo-Saxon kingdoms preceding the kingdom of England, and it ceased to have any official existence after 1066, when William the Conqueror defeated the last Saxon king, Harald, earl of Wessex, in the Battle of Hastings.

Thomas Hardy revived the term 'Wessex', first using it in his 1874 novel, Far from the Madding Crowd. His Wessex included the counties of Devon, Dorset, Berkshire, Somerset, Hampshire and Wiltshire. Neighbouring Cornwall was described as Off-Wessex.

To me, setting foot in this part of England was like the completion of a journey that began years before, when I read my first Hardy novel.

My first stop was Dorchester, which is a good base to explore the south-west, especially for those on the Hardy trail. Dorchester was the author's fictional Casterbridge, and the setting for his celebrated novel, The Mayor of Casterbridge.

A sculpture of the author sits near the junction of the main road, attesting to his status in the town. Exploring Dorchester is like seeing parts of Hardy's novels come alive. Here are three 'shrines' associated with the author.

• Hardy's Cottage
  Hardy was born here on June 2, 1840 - a lovely thatched cottage fronted by a lush, beautiful garden. Located in Higher Bockhampton, the cottage is quite a distance from the town centre. He wrote Far from the Madding Crowd here.

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• Max Gate
  This is the house which Hardy built, and where he drew his last breath. He wrote Jude the Obscure here.

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• Stinsford Church
  This is the place closest to Hardy's heart - literally! It is the final resting place of Hardy's heart. Upon his death on Jan 11, 1928, his heart was removed from his body and buried in the church's cemetery at his request. His ashes rest in the Poets' Corner at Westminster Abbey in London.

NATURAL WONDERS

My Hardy pilgrimage took up one full day. The next day, I headed for Lulworth Cove for a coastal trek. What an awesome adventure it turned out to be!

Trekking along the cliff edge, I was enthralled by the stunning views that stretched before me. The most memorable was the Durdle Door - a magnificent natural arch on the coastal beach.

After the trek, I stopped by a cottage restaurant for the celebrated Dorset cream tea. It comprises a plate of scones, which taste heavenly with homemade butter and jam, and dollops of fresh cream. Wash the lot down with hot tea.

HEARTY FOOD

English food may not score high points in international food circles, but I enjoyed the hearty meals I was served on my south-west tour.

I had an excellent dinner of fish-and-chips in Dorchester on my first night. The full English breakfast, served by the inn I was staying at, was also a delight. It includes ham, bacon, toast and coffee.

The south-west is not just for fans of Thomas Hardy. The little towns here are worth checking out. Goldhill in Shaftesbury, for example, is a picturesque stretch of steep cobbled street, flanked on both sides by cottages.

Being a Hardy enthusiast, there was one last spot awaiting me when I returned to London. While Hardy's heart lies buried in his Wessex homeland, his ashes lie in Westminster Abbey. To this place I dutifully made my way, and there ended my journey of homage to my favourite writer.

John Shadow is a freelance writer.

Photos: John Shadow

Note: This article was part of the Natas Travel 2006 Special published in The Straits Times on March 23, 2006. As a reference to the project's main lead, 'Travel is a numbers game', it's original headline in print was: "1874 was the year Thomas Hardy revived 'Wessex' through his novels".