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Thu, Jul 10, 2008
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Land of the midnight sun

BY: AMY VAN

TROMSO, the capital of Northern Norway, is considered the gateway to the Arctic. Located at the same latitude as Alaska and Siberia (about 70 degrees north), this is the spot where one can experience the midnight sun with 24 hours of daylight between May 21 and July 21, and the polar nights, between Nov 21 and Jan 21.

Just 2,000km from the North Pole, Tromso is one of the best places on earth to view the Northern Lights (aurora borealis), a natural electrical phenomenon where ribbons of stunning green and red lights streak the night sky during dark winter nights.

Colourful wooden houses and restored buildings dating from the 18th to 20th century at the waterfront.

Fish for more

Apart from its amazing sights, there are plenty of naturebased activities to enjoy in this coastal city. With picturesque snow-capped mountains and pristine waters, it is a rich fishing ground for salmon, trout and cod.

Fishing and boating have been the major preoccupations of the locals from the days of the seafaring Vikings. Artefacts prove that inhabitants harvested the sea with ancient fishing tools during the Stone Age.

A fisherman on board Signe I hauls in codfish.

Fishing here is a one-of-a-kind experience.

On a chilly June morning, I went onboard Signe I, a century- old wooden fishing vessel, which is the region's oldest.

Signe I is accredited with the "cultural heritage vessel" status as a fishing vessel like this is rare. The 15m-long boat was built in Tromso in 1908 and restored according to the craft of the ancient ship carpenters.

Signe I cruises the waters of Tromso and its surrounding area. The skipper guarantees a catch that will be prepared and served on deck. Fishing equipment is also available for anyone who wants to fish.

During my trip, the vessel sailed smoothly. The skipper anchored it in the middle of the sea and handed me a fishing rod. For the first time in my life I tried to fish, but I was not skilful enough. The wind became too gusty and cold after a while.

I finally gave up when it began to shower hailstones, and my fingers began to turn numb.

The skipper caught two huge codfish without difficulty. He swiftly cleaned and chopped them up and boiled the thick white flesh in a pot of sea water. The fish was the freshest I've ever tasted.

When we sailed back to shore, the skipper brought us to the city where I gladly defrosted with a hot drink and talked about my fishing adventure.

Quick tips

The many fishing boats of Tromso.

From mid-summer to the beginning of August, Signe I offers regular fishing tours (Monday to Friday, 6pm to 9pm). The three-hour experience on board to enjoy fishing and the surrounding sights is recommended.

It is priced at NOK 390 (S$105) per person and tickets are on sale at the tourist information office (Tel: +47-7761-0000). For longer trips, a special price may be bargained.

Besides Signe I, there are other boats for hire too. Try Finnkroken Feriehytter (Tel: +47- 9706-5166, www.finnkroken.ne) which also guarantees fishing trips with bountiful catches all year round.

You can hire boats with or without a motor for about five people, and get a lesson on safety procedures and fish cleaning.

Apart from the city area, you can also visit Lauklines, a former traditional trading post at Kattfjord on Kvaloya, an island 35km south-west of Tromso.

For the truly adventurous fisherman, rent a boat and fishing equipment from Lauklines Kystferie (Tel: +47-7765-6080, wwwlauklines.no).

A deposit of 2,000 NOK is required when you rent a boat (for four persons). You will be given safety instructions, a map of the area, life vests, gaff, safety box and other equipment that is included in the boat rental. Fish cleaning and freezing facilities are also available.

Picture-postcard views from the boat.

Charter boats with skippers and fishing guides are recommended for those who like to explore interesting spots further out in the sea.

Especially fascinating are tours in early spring (February to April) during the "skrei" season when millions of arctic cod migrate from the Barents Sea in the north into the spawning fields along the jagged coast of Norway.

Warm clothing is needed as the temperature may be lower than 10 deg C, even in summer.

This article was first published in Value Vacations, The Straits Times on July 8, 2008.

 

 
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