"LIFE is a train. Get on board," said writer Khaled Hosseini in The Kite Runner.
On a recent South African sojourn, we took his metaphoric directive to heart and boarded the Pride of Africa, one of the world's most luxurious trains run by Rovos Rail.
We arrived at Pretoria's historic Capital Park Station with minutes to spare for the two-night journey to Cape Town. We made it to the preboarding reception and savoured the salmon and cucumber sandwiches. It was champagne the rest of the way.
"Normally, the owner, Rohan Vos, waves off the train and flies down to meet his guests. But today, he is abroad receiving a travel award," said a staff member.
Rovos Rail, established in 1989, owns four trains and four aircraft. The trains make trips to Victoria Falls, Durban, George, Dar es Salaam and Namibia. The ultimate experience is a Cape to Cairo journey (27 to 34 days) by train, air and Nile cruiser.
The golden age of rail travel came to mind as our personal hostess, Nadine, escorted us to the suite. She attended to our requests, cleaned, laundered, ironed and kept the bar and fridge stocked.
The Pride of Africa bowed out of the station drawn by a superbly reconditioned steam locomotive. In our suite, we poured liquid gold into crystal - a fitting start to the 1,600km journey via the gold and diamond mining region of Kimberley.
The wood-panelled suite with a king-sized bed, sitting area and spacious shower recreated the luxury of a bygone era.
Picture-windows promised endless views, but the old-style drop shutters were a challenge. There was ample room (11 sq m) for a couple to dress up for dinner - smart-casual for women, jacket and tie for men.
From Pretoria, South Africa's executive capital, the train glided past Johannesburg, where prosperity arrived with the discovery of gold and new farmlands.
Journeying by night towards the world's richest lode of gold and diamonds, the train made a stop at Kimberley, where tycoon Cecil John Rhodes, founder of the De Beers Diamond Mining Company, established his fortune.
Then we continued south to Cape Town.
The dinner gong signalled the start of the cocktail hour. We joined 34 guests swaying through the corridors to the Lounge Car.
For us, wining and dining in the gracious Victorian atmosphere of the dining cars amid the formality of fine china, crisp linen and silver made this a travel experience of a lifetime.
Train Manager Joe Mathala orchestrated the dinner hour, indulging the whims and fancies of his guests with his staff.
Each day, he opens all 30 bottles on the complimentary wine list to initiate guests to the finest South African wines.
The wines are sourced by the owner's wife, Anthea, who travels periodically to the best wineries. Meals are prepared onboard the train by 13 chefs, who can whip up your special request.
On our trip, chef Otto Hank's menu included smoked ostrich carpaccio with tempura of vegetables, springbok loin medallions with ginger and prune juice, grilled Cape Rock lobster tails with white wine butter dill sauce, warm sticky ginger pudding and dark chocolate sponge Africana.
South African cuisine is an exotic blend of British, Dutch, French and Malay influences.
"We recently did a family reunion charter of 70 people, our maximum capacity, and we prepared special meals. Rich Indians who charter the train bring their own chefs," said Mr Mathala.
"We prefer that celebrities charter the train, as they often travel with armed guards and demand passenger lists, which are confidential.
"Our guests include Japanese, Koreans, Chinese, Russians and Scandinavians. For Korean golf tours, we set up kitchenettes to cook noodles," he added.
The nine-day golf safaris offer play on five championship courses and include all fees and optional excursions for non-playing guests.
At dawn, as the train entered a semi-arid terrain, we headed for the rear Observation Car that has an open section for photo enthusiasts and smokers.
Breakfast was a stylish buffet with a hot main course of one's choice. Then there was time to reflect on the passing panorama - a lake with a spectacular flock of flamingos, orange ant hills, sheep farms and deserted cattle stations.
A whistle-stop at Kimberley's Victorian railway station enabled us to visit the fascinating Big Hole at the old Mine
Museum.
De Beers produces its own diamonds, and sorting is conducted here at the Harry Oppenheimer Building. Gems are cut and polished abroad and marketed from London.
"Today, 60 to 70 per cent of the world's diamonds are marketed by De Beers. They know how many girlsare turning 21, how many are getting married and how many husbands are cheating on their wives!" said our facetious guide.
From the train, the sight of Karoo region's stark landscape gripped the imagination and made one ruminate on the pioneering spirit of man.
Then it was lunch, afternoon tea, cocktails and dinner. Life was a moving feast on the romantic train. Next day, w disembarked at the historic settlement Matjiesfontein and strolled through Lord Milner Hotel, which is popular with royalty and fortune-hunters.
The Pride of Africa then rumbled through four tunnels along the Hex River Pass and emerged in a hilly landscape of vineyards and mountains before reaching Cape Town.
Two beautiful days had rolled by all too quickly. Writer Khaled Hosseini was right. To experience life to the fullest, one should get on board.
On the Pride of Africa, you can sleep like a king in a luxury suite, enjoy spectacular safari scenery and dine to your heart's content.
For more information and bookings, visit Rovos Rail's website at www. rovos.com or e-mail reservations@ rovos.co.za
