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Mozart mania
By Merlene Michael
Thu, Mar 23, 2006
The Straits Times

I LOVE a good party. And Austria knows how to throw great ones. Since Jan 27, Vienna and Salzburg have been celebrating the 250th anniversary of the birth of its all-time favourite son, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.

The capital Vienna, a marzipan metropolis astride the Danube River, has been playing host to celebrations, concerts, lectures, readings, film showings, museum openings and multimedia extravaganzas. And Mozart's birthplace Salzburg, nestled at the foot of the Austrian Alps, led the way by hosting the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra to perform not one, but two concerts in his home town.

Mozart was born in 1756 to Leopold, a violinist and composer, and Anna Maria Mozart. At four, he was already playing the violin and writing notes without having been taught. He also learnt to play the harpsichord and organ, and wrote compositions for two pianos and duets for himself and his sister.

At five, he appeared publicly for the first time at the Benedictine University in Salzburg. By the time he died at 35, he had toured the European courts and composed 630 works, including 41 symphonies and 27 piano concertos.

VIENNA CALLING

And now, here's your chance to pay homage to the great composer.

In Vienna, make the Mozarthaus (left) your first stop. From the outside, this 11,000sq ft museum in the house at 5 Domgasse, where Mozart spent several of his last years, looks uninspiring. But inside is an imaginative reconstruction of Mozart's spacious apartment, some period furniture, a bronze death mask, multimedia exhibits featuring his music, and the score of his Symphony No.40, handwritten in brown ink.

The Albertina Palace (top), which has recreated Mozart's milieu through art works and documents (now till Sept 17), is worth a visit. Over at the Jewish Museum, the Lorenzo da Ponte: Challenging the New World exhibition (now through September) offers an insight into the relationship between the master and talented librettist da Ponte. Both men worked collaboratively on three operas: The Marriage of Figaro, Don Giovanni and Cosi fan tutte, that are still considered by many as the best ever written.

The city's famous theatres like the Theatre an der Wien are enjoying a particularly happy renaissance. The State Opera house, a gorgeous confection both inside and out, has three Mozart operas in its own repertory this year, and on July 1, it plays host to jazz pianist Chick Corea in a Mozart piano concerto.

A much talked-about event in Austria's social calendar is the Vienna Festival (May 12 to June 18). I was told that this free outdoor spectacular on Rathausplatz Square is the place to be. The event offers Mozart in every form, from concerts at the fabled Musikverein (which boasts one of the best acoustics in Europe) to Peter Sellars, the perpetual provocateur, directing the unfinished Zaide (May 21 to 27).

For a more 'chilled out' approach, take a walk down K'rtnerstrasse, the city's main thoroughfare. Throughout the picturesque town centre, free concerts and recitals take place and you can pop in any of the tented complexes for a look or listen.

By the way, you cannot escape without acquiring a packet of Mozartkugel (right), the pistachio-cream-filled chocolates created more than a century ago in the composer?s honour.

SOUNDS OF SALZBURG

In Salzburg, a much smaller town 321km away, an equally ambitious birthday programme promises to dominate the year.

Salzburg is a Baroque fiesta of churches, plazas, courtyards and fountains. Plus, it stands in a breathtaking setting and contains glorious architectural treasures ? the Baroque spires of the old town, with the Festung Hohen Salzburg (fortress) rising behind, are an unforgettable sight.

To get back on the Mozart trail, head for the historic city centre, the venue of Mozart?s birthplace, Geburtshaus, and the Viva! Mozart Exhibition. Check the programme of events at the Mozarteum, the local music conservatory, as it offers concerts throughout the year. At the famous Salzburger Marionetten, puppet versions of Mozart operas run through late December. It is a treat not just for kids.

Mozart mania is expected to reach new heights during the Salzburg Festival (Aug 20 to 31). A European summer highlight, it is the year's biggest attraction and is presenting all 22 of Mozart's stage works. Traditional Mozart performances on weekends have already begun, and will go on till November.

To end my party on a high, I opted for a very different taste of Mozart. I managed to score a seat at the Mozart Dinner Concert at the Stiftskeller St. Peter restaurant. I dined at the restaurant's Baroque hall and enjoyed popular compositions by Mozart by candlelight, with music played by Salzburg artists in historic costumes. It was a sublime seduction in music and the culinary arts, to say the least.

AMAZING AUSTRIA

There's a whole lot more to than just Mozart.

Must See
The Stephansdom or St Stephen's Cathedral in Vienna (left). It is an island of Gothic magnificence in a sea of Baroque and 19th-century architecture. Climb the 343 steps of a tight spiral staircase to the tower-keeper's room and be rewarded with a breathtaking view of the city. Open daily for tours and worship.

Must do
The Sound of Music Tour in Salzburg. The beloved Rodgers and Hammerstein musical is truly one of my favourite things, and it is a wonderful opportunity to find out just how alive those hills really are.

Must buy
Sachertorte (left). A chocolate-marmalade cake made with the finest ingredients from the confectioner's kitchen (read: no additives). It is an Aaustrian tradition to eat it with freshly beaten, lightly sweetened cream.

Getting there: Austrian Airlines flies direct to Vienna three times a week from Singapore. Domestic flights take you to Salzburg, or just hop on a train.

Visit www.wienmozart2006.at and www.mozart2006.at. for more information

Merlene Michael is an executive sub-editor with The Straits Times. She went on the trip to Austria as a guest of Austrian Airlines

Note: This article was part of the Natas Travel 2006 Special published in The Straits Times on March 23, 2006. As a reference to the project's main lead, 'Travel is a numbers game', it's original headline in print was: '4 years is how old Mozart was when he wrote his first compositions'.

 

 
 
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