SHANGHAI'S art scene has mushroomed at an incredibly rapid rate in the past decade or so.
Two of the most famous creative enclaves in the city are at Taikang Lu, where many old houses have been converted into designer boutiques and studios, as well as Moganshan's art galleries and artists' workshops housed in deserted warehouses.
Taikang Lu
Over the past 10 years, Taikang Lu (between Ruijin and Sinan Lu) has swiftly developed. The alleyways in this quarter are lined with rows of old brick houses - traditional shikumen architecture - some of which are still occupied by local residents.
Fashionable boutiques and art studios established by local designers and artists have filled up the empty units here, drawing yuppies, fashionistas and the expatriate crowd.
There are many things to see and do here, so try to set aside several hours at least.
To kick-off, stop at Taikang Lu's Tian Zhi Fang. This venue, which used to be an old factory space, is where the artist community congregates. The cluster of studios here exhibits contemporary works and paintings by various Shanghainese artists. You can just walk in, view the pieces and buy whatever catches your eye.
Those interested in home decor can check out Nuzi, a New Zealand-themed design boutique. Besides the landscaped paintings and imported lithographic and photographic artworks on display, this outfit also sells furniture, beautiful hand-crafted lamps and other household items.
One of the mainstays in this district is the Deke Erh Art Center. This prominent artistic venture is where you can find local photographer and author Deke Erh's books on Shanghainese interior design and art decoration. The centre also features Tibetan-themed oil paintings plus occasional photo exhibits.
After the browsing and shopping, I recommend a pit-stop at the charming Kommune Courtyard Bar & Cafe. Comforting home-style dishes are served here, as are sandwiches and salads.
On Sundays, it offers a wildly popular all-day breakfast barbecue. You can have a ciabatta and coffee and watch people at the al fresco area before heading to your next destination.
At Taikang Lu, you can view contemporary artworks, visit photo exhibitions, shop for furniture and even indulge in an all-day breakfast barbecue.
Moganshan Lu
Aside from Taikang Lu, Shanghai's contemporary artist community has zeroed in on Moganshan Lu at the Suzhou Creek area in recent years. Many people in the creative industry, especially those involved in avantgarde Chinese art, have made this their home.
The M50 spot attracts a few hundred visitors each day who come to view or invest in the work of more than 100 artists in residence. Some well-known ones include Zhou Tiehai (famous for his Joe Camel paintings) and Ding Yi (known for painting elaborate crosses).
Apart from mainland Chinese artists, there are also others from the United Kingdom, France, Italy, Switzerland, Norwayand Hong Kong who work here. Founded in 1999, the influential Chinese-owned East Link Gallery was one of the first galleries in Shanghai.
It was the pioneer gallery at Moganshan Lu when it moved to one of the old warehouses in 2000 from its original space at the French Concession. East Link has since worked with artists skilled in various media, including painting,
sculpture, video, installation and performance art.
In 2000, the notable ShanghART Gallery jumped on the bandwagon and set up shop at M50. This large Swiss-owned gallery was the first in China to participate in major international fairs, such as Art Basel. The building was used as a contemporary artwork storehouse initially and later unveiled an exhibition space.
BizArt, established by Italian curator Davide Quadrio, is another renowned gallery that supports young local artists. Lately, BizArt has included a complete production studio for artists in residence from China and overseas.
Over at M97, you can find one of the top photography galleries in Shanghai. There is a main exhibition space and three smaller viewing rooms where you can appreciate works from a host of Chinese photographers.
Although some of the artworks came across as somewhat esoteric, it was still an excellent experience to walk around the maze of galleries. The newer workshops now house design companies, painting dealers, and furniture shops, among many other ventures.
All photos are courtesy of Leanne Chew and Roy Cheung.
This article was first published in The Straits Times on July 31, 2008.
