I LOVE Paris - a city that epitomises grandiosity, romance and refinement. Icons such as the Eiffel Tower or Arc de Triomphe on Champs-Elysées are stunning, but an ideal way to experience Paris' heartbeat is to suss out the various quarters that boast their own characters.
One of my favourite districts is Montmartre in the 18th arrondissement. Ever since I saw the quirky French movie Le Fabuleux Destin D'Amelie Poulain,which was set in this quaint spot, I've wanted to explore it. Perched on the highest point in the northern part of Paris, this is an area where you can easily spend an entire afternoon soaking in the atmosphere.
Esquetrian statues of Joan of Arc poised majestically in front of the white domes of the Basilique du Sacré-Coeur.
The charming district is dominated by the majestic white domes of the Basilique du Sacré-Coeur, built between 1877 and 1914. Inside this colossal church, you can see colourful neo-Byzantine mosaics, while outside its pristine white façade are two equestrian statues of Joan of Arc.
As I ascended to the church, I quickly forgot I was in one of the world's most bustling cities. The quiet lanes are lined with colourful ivy-cloaked houses, old trees, cafes and small boutiques.
This place is particularly pleasant in autumn when the trees turn into shades of orange and red. Despite the influx of tourists (fewer in autumn), it is certainly well worth the effort to climb up to this spot to enjoy a panoramic view of Paris. The cathedral's side stairs and terrace are also great for photo opportunities.
The tranquil quarter of Montmartre is also very much an artistic enclave. Artists including Picasso and Monet used to gather here in the 19th century. The hilltop appeared to be an ideal bohemian setting for them to live and garner inspiration.
Today, a group of artists congregate in a square on top of the hill at place du Tertre. Portrait painters jostle for business from tourists who want to have their sketches done. It may be slightly kitschy for some, but I bought a small sketch of Montmartre's streets as a keepsake.
A view of Paris from Basilique du Sacré-Couer
A few steps away from the square is L'Espace Salvador Dali, a museum dedicated to Salvador Dali's sculptures and drawings. Off the square, you can also find the oldest church in the district, St Pierre de Montmartre. Founded in 1133, the church's early Gothic architecture is quite a contrast to the grander and more famous Basilique du Sacré-Coeur.
Not far from place du Tertre, on rue Cortot, is a 17th century manor which houses the Musee de Montmartre. The museum is dedicated to the history of this neighbourhood and its former famous residents. Renoir and other artists used to have studios here. Struggling Dutch artist Vincent Van Gogh also lived with his brother Theo on 54 Rue Lepic between 1886 and 1888.
Nearby on rue des Saules is the Montmartre vineyard, a rare sight in Paris. Planted by a local artist in 1933 to mark the vines that once covered this area, the vineyard is the only remaining one in the city. Grape-picking is in autumn and certainly not a common activity elsewhere in Paris.
Down the hill on 22 Rue des Saules is the Au Lapin Agile cabaret, which has a painted signage of a rabbit jumping out of a pan. Artists and writers used to gather in what is now considered one of Paris' oldest pubs. In fact, Picasso's 1905 oil painting of Lapin Agile helped to propel the cabaret's fame.
The Moulin de la Galette windmill on the corner of Rue Lepic and Rue Girandon has been transformed into a popular restaurant.
Another surprise for me was seeing a windmill in this area. The Moulin de la Galette windmill on the corner of Rue Lepic and Rue Girandon was transformed into a dance hall in the 19th century, famously depicted by Renoir. His 1876 La Moulin de la Galette masterpiece can be found in the Musee d'Orsay. Van Gogh, Toulouse-Lautrec and Picasso also had their own painted rendition of this famous venue.
The monument has been turned into a popular restaurant (83 Rue Lepic) with a lovely terrace courtyard at the back. When you are done exploring the area, you can have a café au lait at one of the cafes on place du Tertre and watch the world go by.
If you are keen to experience Parisian-style musical dance entertainment, you can explore Pigalle's gaudy red light district, not far from the beautiful hills of Montmartre.
Wrap up your tour by visiting the world famous Moulin Rouge cabaret. Located along the main boulevard, you won't be able to miss the venue's bright red windmill. Moulin Rouge continues to attract visitors from around the world who come here to enjoy the traditional, albeit slightly risqué, French cancan dance performance and sip a glass of champagne or two.
This article was first published in The Straits Times by Special Projects Unit, Marketing Division, SPH on September 16, 2008.
