The Iranian city of Shiraz is considered one of the most beautiful and historical cities in the world. The capital of Fars province, it is well known as a city of poets and wine. But it is also a city of gardens, crafts and carpets, says Mr Amin Bagheri, director of The Orientalist Singapore Woven Art and Shiraz Restaurant.
The 37-year-old bachelor is a native of Teheran and has been in Singapore for 13 years. He counts Shiraz as one of his favourite cities and goes there at least once a year to bring back carpets for The Orientalist.
There are no direct flights from Singapore to Shiraz. The best way is to fly to Dubai and take a connecting flight there.
Don't let that put you off, says Mr Bagheri, as this historic city has a lot to offer. There are more than 200 sites of historical significance in and around Shiraz, making it well worth a visit.
Monuments to the poets
Shiraz is the birth and resting place of the great Persian poets Hafez and Saadi. There are two remarkable monuments in Shiraz. One is dedicated to Hafez, the master of Persian lyrical poetry. The other one is dedicated to Saadi, author of the famous Golestan or Garden Of Roses, a book of sonnets. The monuments built in their honour are great pieces of architecture and the perfect place to start your journey in Shiraz, says Mr Bagheri.
Garden of Paradise
While Shiraz has many gardens, the Bagh-e-Eram is a must-visit. It is a large garden with a stunning palace in it. The wall mosaics tell stories about the former rulers of Iran.
Shah Cheragh Shrine
Shah Cheragh Shrine
This is the tomb of Seyed Amir Ahmad, the brother of Imam Reza who was Iran's eighth imam. It is a holy shrine and an important place of pilgrimage. Non-Muslims can visit it but need to seek permission first and women must cover themselves with a chador or shawl before entering. As evening falls, the lights come on and the shrine looks fabulous.
Old town
The most interesting buildings are located in the old part of the town. Among them are about a dozen mosques, some with bulb-shaped domes, others with pear-shaped ones. If you don't have time to visit every one of them, just go to Masjid-e-Vakil, says Mr Bagheri. It has intricate carvings and its welcoming northern iwan or verandah is decorated with shrubs and flowers.
Food
The best food stops are usually around the bazaar area. Mr Bagheri says you must try chelo kebab (rice and barbecue lamb) and ash reshreh (Persian soup). If you have a sweet tooth, go for the famous saffron- and rosewater-flavoured treats. Another Shiraz speciality is faludeh. These starch-like noodles are made from rice and are flavoured with lemon juice and other toppings. Another must-try is ma'joon, which is a mixture of milk, banana, honey, nuts (including walnuts and pistachios) plus cocoa and ice cream. Some versions come topped with ground figs and coconut.
'Pomegranates may be all the rage in America now, but they've been part of the culinary landscape in Iran for hundreds of years,' says Mr Bagheri. Whether bought at the market or from a roadside vendor, you can enjoy the fruit as an accompaniment to a meal or as a snack any time of the day.
Shopping
You must visit the Big Bazaar in Shiraz and look for Iranian handicrafts and carpets, traditional paintings and painted fabrics. Also try and visit Vakil Bazaar. Here, silversmiths and jewellers still do exquisite inlay work.
Tea houses
Some of the best tea houses are around the bazaar area. Walk around to see what appeals to you. Once you have found the tea house of your choice, sit down and enjoy tea with Persian cookies. It is one of the best ways to unwind after shopping at the bazaar.
Buying Carpets is recommended when you visit Shiraz
Carpets
The most famous Persian art can usually be seen on Persian carpets and rugs. Mr Bagheri says carpets should always be bought at the Carpet Bazaar and you should go for the finer and more intricately woven ones.
'You are after all in one of the carpet capitals of the world and you'll get to see some really breathtaking designs,' he adds.
The starting price for a small, good-quality carpet would be around $200. But depending on the size and the intricacy of the weave, you can expect to pay $5,000 or more.
Visit Persepolis
About 50km north-west of Shiraz are the remains of Persepolis, the grand ceremonial capital built by Darius the Great and his successors some 2,500 years ago. Archaeologists are still combing through the debris and ashes that have covered Persepolis since Alexander the Great destroyed it in 330BC. A visit to this historic Unesco World Heritage site is a must.
deepikas@sph.com.sg
Photos by Amin Bagheri
This article was first published in The Straits Times on September 16, 2008.
