[top: The famous River Seine runs through the middle of Paris and neighbourhoods are forever defined by whether they happen to be on the Left or Right Bank of the river]

By Geoffrey Eu

PARIS is a capital city in more ways than one - chic, charming and sophisticated, it is also beautiful and beguiling, boasting an impressive catalogue of earthly delights that draws umpteen millions there each year, like moths to the proverbial flame.

But there is also something indefinable - a certain je ne sais quoi, if you will - about a city that is home to the best cultural institutions and couture houses, a city that boasts antique markets and world-class restaurants by the score. Call it romance, call it style (or better yet, call it home), but Paris has got it in abundance.

The Louvre, with its stunning entranceway is a top-drawer attraction that should not be missed.

Of course, Paris can be different things to different people, but no matter what the weather's like, what mood you happen to be in and where you go on your visit, the city - with its myriad sights and sounds - can be relied upon to reveal itself in many interesting ways, whether it's something as simple as a walk in the Jardin de Luxembourg, the largest park in the city, or a journey on a city bus, where you might be privy to a typical Parisian conversation.

The important thing to note, however, is that this is a city that is best explored on foot. Visitors in search of history and art, food and culture or fashion and entertainment are likely to discover all of the above, quite possibly within a short distance of one another. It might be useful to view the city as a conglomeration of villages - comprising 20 districts, or arrondissements, that spiral outwards from the centre. Running through the middle is the River Seine and on either side of it neighbourhoods are forever defined in terms of style and attitude by whether they happen to be on the river's Left Bank (Rive Gauche) or Right Bank (Rive Droite)

It was Hemingway who called Paris a 'moveable feast' because impressions of a stay there were bound to remain with him for a lifetime. He wasn't the only artist so moved - over the years, the city has weaved its magic on a fair share of literary heavyweights, international filmmakers and struggling artists. No matter what they happen to think of its two million or so inhabitants, all have invariably taken a shine to the City of Light.

Visitors won't miss a lot by avoiding typical tourist stops like the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe or a cruise along the Seine, but a top-drawer attraction like The Louvre should be included, and not just because of the Mona Lisa - there is plenty of art to contemplate in addition to this museum's most famous inhabitant.

A less conventional option would be to head for the Musee Guimet, a small but classy museum of Asian art in the 16th arrondissement. And instead of following a well-worn trail down the Champs-Elysees, head instead for the lively Bohemian atmosphere of the Marais, whose narrow cobblestone streets date back to the 16th century.

Paris, with its famous shops and catwalks, is every fashionista's dream destination.

Naturally, a significant portion of any trip to Paris will involve those two favourite pastimes, shopping and eating. Would-be visitors will be interested to know that rumours of an economic crisis have not had any discernible impact on shopping trends, according to well-placed sources in tune with such epic events as the annual winter sales. Perhaps the shopping fraternity is simply in denial.

In any case, the queue on the first day of the much-awaited Hermes sale - at a separate location from the retail stores - was longer than in previous years, with bargain hunters willing to wait in excess of three hours just to get to the front door. Suite 114, a popular multi-brand boutique that opened last fall in the 7th arrondissement, sold out its entire collection since going on sale.

In addition to the usual suspects like high-end designer brands and the iconic concept-cum-lifestyle store Colette on rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore, new medium-priced chain store The Kooples, which opened late last year, has been attracting attention from fashionistas with its strong collection of clothing and accessories for men and women.

With regard to things of an edible nature, there are a few places in Paris that you will keep going back to, because too much is never enough when it comes to things such as macarons from Pierre Herme, chocolates from Pierre Marcolini, or hot chocolate from Cafe de Flore.

If you have the opportunity to shop at one of the many weekly markets around the city, try the one at Avenue President Wilson, or the organic market at Boulevard Raspail. And if you have a weakness for French cheese, head straight to Barthelemy in the 7th arrondissement and find yourself in cheese heaven.

A cup of hot chocolate at Cafe de Flore, and macarons from Pierre Herme.

There are of course any number of Michelin-starred restaurants to sample in Paris but unless you have unlimited financial resources, you are advised to stick to the bistros, of which there are many excellent ones. However, it is worth noting that La Table de Joel Robuchon, a two-star fine dining restaurant featuring the cuisine of one of France's most well-known culinary exports, offers a good value set lunch in the 65-euro range.

Surprisingly, however, one of the most difficult places to secure a reservation these days is a more casual eatery called Spring, whose chef is - shock, horror - an American named Daniel Rose. His formula - under 50 euros for a creative four-course meal - has diners coming in droves and his restaurant booked months in advance.

'We'll always have Paris,' Humphrey Bogart tells Ingrid Bergman in the movie Casablanca. It may be one of the most famous cinematic lines of all time - and possibly the cheesiest - but it also aptly echoes Hemingway's sentiments, and those of anyone who has ever spent a meaningful amount of time there. Somehow, the city has a way of doing that to you.

This article was first published in The Business Times.