IT'S a tough choice. There are well-intentioned people who will tell you why you should put Tokyo, Kyoto or even Sapporo ahead of Osaka as a must-go place.
But maybe they have not been to this sprawling city of about nine million.
For sure, Osaka is more about local, everyday life than international, financially driven dynamics, more about culture than consumption.
This heart-on-its-sleeve destination's boisterous residents may not necessarily shield their mouths with delicately raised hands when they eat.
But you can find excellent food that costs relatively little even in its premier entertainment and shopping districts like Dotonbori or affordably priced accommodation that provides the budget traveller with comfort, convenience and Internet connection.
Best of all, Osakans are mostly a gregarious bunch, always ready to engage strangers in cheerful conversation peppered with hand gestures and a smattering of English.
Lap up the nightlife in Dotonbori
Once, a kimono-clad waitress actually scampered through a couple of back alleys to rescue me after I had phoned to say I was lost in some street corner while trying to locate her eatery - Yoshi-ichi.
Tucked away in a side street in Namba, famous for its underground shopping arcades, it was recommended by the staff at my hotel for its low-priced, scrumptious cuisine.
In its tiny, tatami-covered dining area, I had kitsune- udon, glistening white noodles in a rich broth with deep-fried sheets of bean curd ($4 per bowl), followed by okonomiyaki, a batter-fried pancake with vegetables and cooked meat ($6).
They also informed me that I could find food that's value for money in supermarkets and convenience stores, from bento (Japanese lunch boxes) and sandwiches to onigiri (rice balls) and seaweed salads.
If you get there within an hour of closing time, you can get some items for up to half the original price. This I found out one night - after accidentally walking into a strip club, mistaking it for a tattoo parlour. I quickly shuffled into the supermarket next door.
I also found out that during the months of summer, which coincided with my visit, Osakans tend to shed a lot of inhibitions. Maybe it's the heat, as you see some of the local chaps dressing down mostly in shorts and tank tops.
And people seem comfortable about public displays of affection. I saw many young couples heading to parks and cafes to coo and kiss, albeit discreetly.
It is also the peak period associated with heavily booked hotels and hefty room charges. Fortunately, there are hostels and smaller hotels. Prices can range from $18 to $60 per single room per night.
Cheaper alternatives are capsule hotels, where you retire in coffin-like beds stacked in rows, and love motels, where you may hear bed springs squeal throughout the night.
Sharing communal baths and toilets is a given for some of these options. So, if you're like me and need privacy, you may want to get a room with private showers. I stayed in Hotel Kinki at an affordable $55 for a single room, which is cheap by Japanese standards.
Besides, it's located in the heart of Umeda - Osaka's main commercial and business district, and a few minutes' walk from the nearest train and subway stations.
HISTORICAL ALLURE: Osaka Castle, largely reconstructed in 1931 with a museum and quiet verdant trails, is a must-see.
And if you?re going from the hotel to Osaka Castle, which no one should miss, it takes less than 30 minutes on the subway. Set in a vast park, this 16th-century castle that was largely reconstructed in 1931 plays host to a museum and concert hall.
Spending a couple of hours there, browsing through the museum displays and checking out the monuments and quiet verdant trails and vistas will give you a good feel of ancient Japan. For an admission charge of less than $8, it's a steal.
A couple of friendly Osakans I met during a train ride to Shitennoji Temple invited me to a karaoke session in the Umeda district in a karaoke bar called Zaac.
Amid our merry-making, I was told that the karaoke bar has been traditionally regarded as a great leveller, a place where everyone, from the humble student to the millionaire, is equal.
It was past 2am when we left the place. Thankfully, the guys had made a conscious effort to pick a karaoke joint within walking distance from my hotel.
If you're planning to sample the city's vibrant nightlife, be prepared to shell out a lot for cab rides since train and subway services end by midnight.
Or, do what I did - stay out till dawn, have a hearty breakfast and take the first train back to the hotel for some glorious sleep.
Check out the neon-and-booze enclaves like Dotonbori and Namba, as well as more bohemian districts like Shinsaibashi. Whether it's the delirium in singles bars where everyone partakes in mutual admiration or the aroma of dessert wine served against a panoramic view of the city from the Floating Garden Observatory on the 40th floor of the Umeda Sky Building, the night is yours to enjoy.
However, alcoholic beverages from most of these bars and clubs can empty your wallet in a jiffy, so I suggest that you first tank up a bit with drinks from vending machines or convenience stores.
Likewise, foolhardy shopping can hurt even if you think that scooping up trinkets, souvenirs and other bric-a-brac won't bust the bank.
If you must, go to retail chains like 100 Yen for low-priced items from chopsticks to samurai dolls.
While Osaka may lack Tokyo's neon-lit commercial ways, it more than makes up with its historical allure and a unique brand of swagger among the locals.
You can mingle in cafes swollen with diners on a sun-drenched weekend or enjoy the quiet in parks and gardens removed from the traditional tourist bustle.
And tell yourself that, yes, the folks were right in voting Osaka as one of the world''s most liveable cities in a recent poll.
-Jansen Lim is a freelance writer and part-time polytechnic lecturer.
Udon
5 things to do
1 Do eat its udon. Osaka prides itself on offering some of Japan's best udon. I've yet to come across a better culinary answer for a muggy afternoon than a cold udon-seafood platter.
2 Do interact with the friendly locals. Not only will they help you find your way around but some may even invite you for a home-cooked dinner.
3 Do spend an evening in Den Den Town, the city's electronics paradise. Sample the latest video games or simply be overwhelmed by the dazzling display of mobile phones, MP3 players and manga figurines.
4 Do soak in some culture. Due to Osaka's historical legacy, there is no shortage of shrines and museums to visit, such as Imamiya Ebisu Shrine and Osaka City Museum.
SPIRITUAL ALLURE: Imamiya Ebisu Shrine where people go to pray for happiness and business success.
5 Do shop for DVDs. Movie buffs will want to check out the DVDs for all kinds of titles, including European, American and even Chinese films, which are not available elsewhere except in Japan.
2 don'ts
1 Don't enter certain premises like hot springs, gyms and swimming pools with your shoes on. In most gyms, you are also required to put on a pair of training shoes that are strictly for indoor use.
2 Don't discuss politics with the local residents. They are a patriotic lot and are likely to feel uneasy when faced with controversial issues like, for example, Sino-Japan relations.
