Traipsing the wet market of Pasar Besar Siti Khadijah, exploring the cultural square with palaces, mosques and museums and checking out the bargains at Wakaf Che Yeh. These are the usual things that tourists do when in Kota Baru, Kelantan.
How about going on a cruise along Sungai Kelantan?
Well, why not? After all, it's the newest tourist attraction here. You don't have to go into the deep interior of the State that also straddles the virgin forests of Taman Negara National Park, to enjoy the cruise.
The cruise starts in the commercial heart of town. Just go to the Seroja jetty near the new Tesco hypermarket, buy a ticket and you're off.
The cruise on board the Seroja, a boat with both an open-air deck and an air-conditioned cabin, takes about two hours to ply the 15km route to Kuala Besar where the river meets the South China Sea.
From The Mountains
As the boat chugs its way past the Sultan Yahya Bridge, the sight of the concrete jungle gives way to wild bushes, mangroves and coconut groves on the flat, fertile plains flanking the river.
It's a broad river with muddy water that often overruns its banks, especially during the north-east monsoon season from November to February.
Its tributaries flow from the forested mountains. Its first course is called Sungai Betis, then Sungai Nenggiri which flows east to merge with Sungai Galas. This then meets Sungai Lebir in the wilds of Taman Negara National Park before emerging in Kuala Kerai as the larger Sungai Kelantan.
The whole course makes Sungai Kelantan the second longest river in the peninsula, after Sungai Pahang. Besides flowing past Kuala Krai, it meanders near other towns - Pasir Mas and Tumpat - before reaching Kota Baru near the river mouth.
History Unveiled
The river is one of the main means of transportation from the ancient days till today and human settlements, including Malay and Chinese villages, that grew up along its banks, are still standing today.
In Kampung Cina, an ornate Chinese temple, Tokong Mek, marked by a flamboyant red and gold arch with figures of dragons perched on its roof, is located near the bank.
Early Kelantan not only had links to the Khmer Empire, Srivijaya and Siam kingdoms but also the Funan Kingdom. But it was not until the 1920s that more Chinese migrants, especially those from China's southern provinces of Guandong, Fujien and Hainan, came and settled in Kelantan. They were mainly shopkeepers running small businesses buying and selling seafood, copra, rice and other goods.
The Chinese have assimilated very well with the Malays in Kelantan. But while they may speak and dress like the local Malays sometimes, they have preserved many of their own religious and cultural observations.
Another village on the riverbank is Kampung Laut, an old village where the Malay tradition is very much alive. Kampung Laut is synonymous with Kelantan as the celebrated traditional heartland of Malay culture.
The village is like a "living museum" where many traditional artisans are still practising age-old methods. Batik makers and wayang kulit (shadow play) masters open their homes to visitors. To supplement income, village women make traditional delicacies like dodol, serunding and gelembung buaya for sale.
Also visible from the boat is Kampung Dalam Pupuh where Malay hero Tok Janggut was buried. Tok Janggut led a rebellion against the British in 1915. He was captured and executed by the British who hung his body upside down near Sungai Kelantan before it was buried.
Return At Sunset
Moving towards the estuary at Kampung Kuala Besar, several river islands with lush vegetation loom into view. Rumah rakit (houses on rafts) dot the river and nearer the estuary is the picturesque fishing village of Kuala Besar where fishermen depart to sea and return to unload their catch. Such a sight cements the estuary as a land of seafarers still steeped in its old-world charm.
The boat makes a U-turn at the estuary and heads back to Seroja jetty in time for passengers to see the majestic sunset in the horizon.
The Cruise
The Kelate River Cruise (Kelantan is called Kelate in the local dialect) is run by two companies, Hanis Holiday & Entertainment Sdn Bhd and ANF Holidays Sdn Bhd in collaboration with the Kelantan Tourism Association.
It is being promoted by Tourism Malaysia Kelantan as a new product launched in February as part of the promotion for Visit Kelantan Year 2008.
Early this year, the cruise was more of a "joy ride" as the boat did not make any stop. There was also no commentary on board. However, from last month, it stops at Kuala Besar where passengers can go to the wet market to buy seafood. There are plans to make more stops, including one at Kampung Laut and Kampung Cina. Tourist guides have also been engaged to give onboard commentaries.
The Seroja boat can seat 40 people. For a better view, sit on the deck rather than in the air-conditioned cabin.
According to the cruise brochure, the boat departs twice daily at 11am and 5.30pm. However, at the time of writing, there was only one trip on Friday and Saturday departing at 5.30pm on both days. It may be best to call ahead for bookings.
Group requests for special trips can be arranged. Dining on board can be arranged, too.
The cruise costs RM15 for adult and RM7 for children aged three to 12.
For details, call +60-09-743 2457, 019-915 6969 (Halim) or 019-919 4404 (Azhisham).
