WE WERE afloat in a surreal world where the sun shines all night. As the elegant cruise ship cautiously inched through ice floes, there was a palpable wave of excitement on board.
The captain announced that we were just 552 nautical miles short of the North Pole. Around us were countless isles, a mosaic of shattered blue forms.
The 21-day cruise starts from the Netherlands with stops in Norway, Iceland and Scotland.
Amsterdam
Our cruise began at Amsterdam in the Netherlands 10 days ago - time enough to get addicted to rudderless living in a stateroom thoughtfully designed for the 21-day voyage. The 793-passenger Prinsendam, the smallest of Holland America Line's fleet, has a faithful following drawn by refined elegance, high security and indefatigable service from a largely Asian crew.
Oslo
The first Norwegian port was Oslo, a capital city with a tempestuous history. Akershus Fortress, the Nazi wartime headquarters, stands in stony evidence on shore. The Viking Ship Museum has magnificent burial ships dated from AD820 to 900. The Norwegian Nobel Institute and Frogner Park show 225 stunning sculptures by Gustav Vigeland, charting the cycle of life.
Kristiansand
Over crab sandwiches at Kristiansand fishing port, we watched pleasure boats, swans diving for tidbits and seagulls screaming for a share. We also had time for onboard activities - spa, bridge lessons, art auctions, lectures and more. Our dinner companions, Californians Barbara and Jerry Milner, belong to the Travelers' Club for people who have visited over 100 countries.
Bergen
Bergen, Gateway to the Fjords, is composer Edvard Grieg's beloved city. It has fine churches, museums, a restored castle and elegant shops. A 100-passenger funicular took us up to the 300m-high peak of Mount Floien for a view of toy houses and Hanseatic buildings along green fingers of land. At the centuries-old Fish Market, young girls sold salmon, whale and smoked mackerel, and there were souvenirs of knitwear and trolls.
Geiranger Fjord
Next day, we opened our eyes to green cliffs dabbed with snow. The ship had entered the Geiranger Fjord, one of the narrowest and prettiest passages in western Norway. We had breakfast on deck while charming Captain Christopher Turner skilfully negotiated the magnificent passage. Fjords are arms of the sea between the valleys carved by glaciers far below sea levels. When the glaciers melted, seawater flooded the valleys. We passed waterfalls with fanciful names and cliff-top "shelf farms" accessible by ladders - once an amazing way of life where
children were tethered to the house and animal hauled up when young.
Geiranger Fjord is one of the narrowest and prettiest sea passages in western Norway.
Tromso
As the ship approached Tromso, we entered the Arctic Circle. No sunrise. No sunset. Feisty passengers marked the occasion with a plunge in the pool and received certificates. Tromso has a charming Arctic Cathedral, Polaria adventure centre and a meteorological station researching the Northern Lights (aurora borealis) phenomena caused
by sun particles clashing with the upper atmosphere. For a snack, we tasted Norway's famous brunost, a sweet brown cheese. Tromso's attractions include dog-sledging, reindeer-driving and all-night play at the world's northernmost 18-hole course, Tromso Golfpark.
Honningsvag
The ship reached another landmark when we docked at Honningsvag and drove to North Cape, Norway's highest point. For photos, we braved the lashing wind on a granite cliff 300m above crashing waves. Then we warmed up at North Cape Hall, abuzz with visitors. That day, we turned in at 3am after drinks at the Eagle's Nest, watching the Midnight Sun flood the vast ocean with magical, golden light while majestic seabirds skimmed the waves for prey.
Bear Island
Nature's rugged beauty gripped the imagination when we passed Bear Island and its solitary Polish research station within the Norwegian archipelago of Svalbard. Later, gliding through the glorious Hornsundfjord, our attention was divided between a five-course dinner and the stunning feast through the window. Then for the breathtaking highlight - Arctic Eden.
Polar ice cap
The Prinsendam headed for the polar ice cap through a sea of ice sculptures with bird-like forms. Ice floes gave way to slabs, some as huge as houses. The ship inched through deep ice and stopped. This was Arctic Eden! A blacktie dinner and magnificent meal honoured the occasion.
Longyearbyen
For a glimpse of life at the top of the world, the ship stopped at Longyearbyen, Spitsbergen Island, Svalbard. At this bleak mining outpost, people seek isolation, adventure or the rewards of toiling in a harsh environment. It is Norway's Alaska, where puffins and polar bears reside and pubs abound. As we strolled, an Arctic tern dived and chased us back to the ship.
Despite the churning ocean here, the ship's nightly show was well attended. So far, we had enjoyed Katzenjammer's four-hand piano concert, the Black Tie family quartet and the Mexican Duo Yalba. After two days of scenic sailing, wine tasting and cooking classes, we sailed to Iceland, a land blessed with volcanoes and glaciers.
Picturesque glacier at Magdalene Fjord, Spitsbergen Island.
Akureyri
Eyjafjordur was our gateway to Akureyri, a pretty town with brilliant wild flowers and happy children in the Botanic Garden.
Reykjavik
Then we moved on to the multicultural capital Reykjavik, where soaking in thermal pools is a way of life and hot water is piped free into homes and streets to melt the snow. Iceland, an invitation to adventure, has no snakes, mosquitoes or cockroaches.
Amsterdam
The ship touched Lerwick, Shetland Islands and Edinburgh, Scotland, and finally Amsterdam. We bade farewell to new friends and devotees of long, luxurious voyages - among them Canadian cattle-ranch owner Christel Huegler, who has sailed with Holland America Line for 521 days and just booked another cruise.
A similar 21-day Top of the World cruise by Holland America Line will sail from Dover to Amsterdam on July 17, 2009. Visit www.hollandamerica.com for details.
This article was first published in The Straits Times on July 31, 2008.
