MANY people had never even heard of Qatar before the country hosted the Doha Asian Games in 2006. When I told some friends I was going there recently, they still gave me a blank look, followed by the obligatory "Huh, where is that?"

Well, for all those not in the know, Qatar is a peninsula in the Arabian Gulf and most visits begin in its capital, Doha, a bayside city half way down the East coast. Like many cities in the region, Doha offers an intriguing mixture of ancient Arabic tradition and modern metropolitan life.

As your plane approaches the airport, you will be welcomed by the gentle turquoise and emerald hues of the Arabian Gulf, juxtaposed against a sandy desert backdrop as well as a spectacular view of the city.

The Doha skyline is changing dramatically and the West Bay area is one of the most modern.

First impressions are very important when visiting a new place and Doha certainly impresses with its clean environment and systematic, wide roads filled with Toyota four-wheel drive vehicles and various models of Fords and Chevrolets. People here drive fast but without the non-stop honking.

Qatar used to be a small fishing and pearling village until the 1940s when the discovery of the world's largest known offshore gas field transformed its economy. It now has the third-largest natural gas reserve in the world which, according to National Geographic, is enough to fuel every American home for the next 100 years.

Thanks to its buzzing economy, the country is changing at an amazing pace. In just slightly more than a year since my last visit during the Asian games, I returned to find a more "mature" city. New buildings have sprouted like mushrooms in the downtown area as well as in the city's West Bay area (known as New Doha), where towering cranes dot the landscape for as far as the eye can see.

A new and improved airport is currently being built to handle the increasing number of international flights that now make their way into the city.

This sun-kissed country offers tourists plenty to see and do: Favourites include desert and shopping escapades, water sporting activities, as well as visits to the numerous natural attractions and historical museums.

Point to note: The discerning traveller will not be disappointed as most luxury international hotel chains have found roots in Doha. There are also plenty of choices for fine dining, although one really shouldn't miss a chance to try Arabic food like hummus (a paste made from chickpeas and sesame seeds), tabbouleh (chopped parsley, mint and crushed wheat), ghuzi (a whole roast lamb served on a bed of rice with pine-nuts) and shawarma (grilled slivers of lamb or chicken, wrapped with salad in a pocket of Arab bread). Restaurants in Qatar have dining areas with curtains that can be drawn to allow women to eat comfortably without their veils, away from the gaze of male diners.

A tour of Doha should start with a stroll on the sea-front Corniche, a 7km crescent-shaped area fronting the sparkling blue waters of the Doha Bay. This is perhaps the best place to take in that wonderful mix of old and new - the rising metal and glass urban skyline to one side and the quaint wooden dhows (traditional boats) which line the quay on the other side.

The Doha skyline is changing dramatically and the West Bay area is one of the most modern.

Smack in the centre of the bay lies the impressive Palm Tree Island, once a barren sand bar but now a must-visit for its lovely beaches, restaurants and amusement centres.

Although rapid development is changing Qatar somewhat, it is nice to see local men and women still wearing the traditional dishdashas and abayahs, although their pockets and designer handbags often carry the latest mobile phones. Qatari women are also still known for their strong, heady perfume.

Once you're done people watching, you should visit the Camel Market. Camels are, understandably, a big deal in this desert region, but be warned - they have a tendency to spit, so be careful and keep a good distance.

In the past, a family's wealth was calculated by the number of camels it owned. Today, selective breeding has produced racing camels with their own inherent elegance. A well-bred race camel is as important as, well, a thoroughbred horse.

If that's not your cup of tea, head down to the souqs (local markets) for gold, spices and clothes. Just picture the world of Aladdin and Ali Baba, Sinbad, Scheherazade and magic carpets ... well, that lovely, mystical feel is exactly what a souq offers.

There are several markets in the city and I went shopping in Souq Waqif (the oldest in Doha) where you can find everything from clothes to toys, as well as tools, spices, perfume, cosmetics, candy, jewellery, brass, kitchen utensils ... just about anything you want. The shopkeepers are all male though, even in the stalls which sold women's clothes, and I thought that was a bit odd.

Another point of interest is the falcon souq where birds of prey are put up for sale. The price of the bird depends on the size of its feathers and wing span. Some falcons cost up to RM100,000.

Get set for the ride of your life at Khor Al Adaid.

Falcons were used originally by Bedouins to hunt game. Today, the tradition of falconry remains a major sporting activity during the hunting season from October to March.

The scenic Khor Al Adaid (an inland sea which features an inlet surrounded by giant sand dunes) is another of the city's major attractions. Our driver met us in the hotel lobby and drove us to the outskirts of town, past the oil refineries and the new airport out to the sand dunes.

He had a blast making us scream as he drove straight up and down the steep dunes. This dose of dune bashing waslike an exhilarating roller-coaster ride!

It seemed like the dune road was leading to the middle of nowhere when we suddenly took a pit stop atop a one dune which overlooked the inland sea. I got to put my feet in the powder-fine white sand which was so fine that it produced thick clouds of white dust when a vehicle travels over it. At one point, it looked like a sandstorm was about to descend upon us but our driver quickly assured us it was just a windy day. It is anticipated that Doha will soon be as popular as Dubai as a tourist destination. There are new resorts sprouting up all over the city, everyone speaks English and there was not once in my two trips that I feat unsafe or threatened.

Qatar is a fascinating country that beckons the world to come and explore.

The writer's trip to Doha was sponsored by Qatar Airways. The airline operates seven weekly flights from the city to Kuala Lumpur, four of which continue on to Bali. Between June and August, there are 10 weekly flights to cater for increased passenger traffic during the summer season. The carrier uses two new aircraft - the A330-200 and A330-300 - on this route.