FOR the first time in my life, I spent a million in five minutes - in Vietnamese dong, that is - which equates to roughly 80 Singapore dollars.
A million dong - it thrills me. I dipped freely into my wallet at a handicrafts emporium en route from Hanoi to Halong Bay.
Aimed mainly at tourists, the sprawling hall boasted a fascinating array of handicrafts - silk, ceramic, lace and exquisitely embroidered wall hangings done by handicapped children.
The million-something dong bought me three small pieces of artwork and a silk nightsuit. I could have spent much more if I had given in to my impulses, but restraint was the order of the day.
After all, the main purpose of my brief visit was not to shop but to get a glimpse of the diverse charms of this fascinating country.
Discover the charm of Vietnam on the streets and at a water puppet show.
From the time my group and I were greeted by our friendly Vietnamese guide, Cuong (pronounced "Khung"), it was a journey of discovery. Cuong, who fought against the Americans in the Vietnam War, said the country went through tough times, but now, that's all in the past. "People are now happy in my country," said the ever-smiling guide.
Hanoi
The capital city of Hanoi is thriving with plenty of construction, indicating that the economy is prospering.
It is a busy, bustling chaotic city, and motorcycles are the main mode of transportation for the locals. There are plenty of taxis for tourists,but you can hop on to one of the 'hugging Hondas' - aptly named because you would have to hug the rider as he weaves through the heavy traffic.
Men and women whizzed about on the bikes, sometimes with a child or two aboard, without a care in the world. Safety helmets were made compulsory only last year because, for a long time, they refused to wear them.
Crossing the road looked like a nightmare to me, as the bikes and cars did not stop for anybody. Cuong advised: "Maintain the same speed when crossing the road, and don't make eye contact with the riders." I tried and it worked. I was soon charging across the road without batting an eyelid like the locals.
Despite the chaos, there are peaceful spots around the city, which boasts 32 lakes. The biggest is West Lake, and the hotel I stayed in, the Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi, is built on it. The hotel is a 10-minute taxi ride from the city, but far from the hustle and bustle.
There is a lot to do in Hanoi, from sampling the delicious pho, or Vietnamese beef noodles, to taking an hour-long trishaw ride through the city's old quarter, which is full of shops selling everything.
A must-visit is the Thang Long Water Puppet show, where the puppeteers stand in waist-deep water behind a curtain and deftly manoeuvre the puppets as they tell stories of Vietnamese farmers and enact folk tales. Try and catch a show that has English narration if you want to understand what's going on.
Getting around in the humid weather can be draining. A good time to visit is from November to March, when the weather is pleasantly cool. Or, you could get away from it all and go on a cruise in Halong Bay.
Halong Bay
Just three hours by road from Hanoi, Halong Bay is the perfect getaway to soothe jangled nerves and let the serene surroundings wash away the stress. There are many day cruises, but I went on an overnight cruise on a refurbished junk run by Bhaya Cruises.
The ship meanders gently through the bay around some of the 3,000 limestone islets that rise from the emerald waters. The bay is recognised as a Unesco World Heritage Site, and its scenic beauty features beaches, grottos and caves.
The ship has three decks, with 16 deluxe cabins, two Bhaya suites and two Royal suites. The cabins are small but comfortable. I chose to sit on the sundeck and enjoy the scenery and cool breeze. For dinner it was French cuisine.
Cruise passengers can opt for activities from taiji on the deck to an excursion to the Sung Sot Cave.
You can join an excursion to explore the Sung Sot Cave, as I did, panting up 100 steps into the gigantic interior, or visit a floating village, where the houses are built on platforms and little children swim and row boats. You can also snorkel or kayak in the calm waters.
Late in the night, I tried my hand at catching crabs with a hook. The bright spotlight attracts the crustaceans and fish, and you dip a hook into the waters and hope they latch on.
Catch the sunset and the sunrise, or practise taiji. Our supple teacher looked graceful as she effortlessly led us through the routine, but the handful of us who woke up early for the session looked more like lumbering elephants.
We ended up with sore limbs and aching muscles, but it was fun while it lasted.
The trip was sponsored by Vietnam Airlines, HG Travel (tour operator in Vietnam) and Deks Air Travel & Tours.
All photos are courtesy of Eddie Pang and Uma Venkatraman.
This article was first published in The Straits Times on July 31, 2008.
