WHEN tropical cyclone Nargis pummelled Myanmar's former capital, Yangon in May, I reeled with pain when I recalled my journey there and the gentle people so steeped in culture and a traditional way of life.

Over 15,000 people died when the cyclone tore roofs off buildings, uprooted trees, downed power lines and dumped 50cm of rain that flooded the city.
The scenes shown on television were heart wrenching, so different from the Myanmar I saw when I visited the country late last year.

Myanmar Beckons

When a friend asked if I was keen to visit Myanmar, I jumped at the offer. Mind you, this was planned way before the Saffron Revolution last September when Buddhist monks in saffron robes took to the streets to protest against Myanmar's military rule.

We were scheduled to leave on Nov 28, 2007 and it was agony not knowing if our trip was still on as many countries had issued a travel advisory against going there. To make matters worse, insurance companies cancelled coverage for travellers and airlines cancelled flights there.

As a travel agent myself, I could understand the stress level under such circumstances. Then, on Nov 18, we were given the green light and we rushed to get our visas done! Myanmar is the only Asean country that requires Malaysians to have a valid visa.

All through the flight to Yangon, social and political questions kept me awake. In fact, everyone I knew thought I had to be mad to be visiting Myanmar at this time.

Honestly, I had no idea what to expect, apart from plans to visit a couple of places I had read about in a guidebook. I would just go with the flow.

Traditional cone-shaped nets for catching carp.

A Unique People

Myanmar is one of the few countries left where things are pretty much as they have been for a very long time. In the end, it wasn't so much the sights that made my trip memorable but rather, a combination of its people and places.

The people are not unaware of the country's state of affairs but they've learned to take refuge in things beyond life and work. What I admire most about them is their positive attitudes despite the daily hardship.

Myanmar is where you'll find the union of the teachings of Buddha and a way of thought that's unique to its people. As our trip progressed, I gradually embraced the vitality and warmth of the people.

Upon arrival, I couldn't help but notice that the traditional national dress of longyi (sarong) matched with a cotton shirt or blouse and flip-flops were still very much the dress code for the day! Not an item of modern fashion anywhere, yet no one in the streets of Yangon was shabbily dressed.

Peaceful Ambience

Imprinted forever in my mind is the image of the great, golden Shwedagon Pagoda. As I sat gazing at it, outlined against a hot and baking sun, I marvelled at the tranquillity surrounding the national shrine.

Every two yards or so, Myanmar men and women knelt in fervent prayer. A few sat smoking cheroot or indulging in idle chatter. The people seemed to genuinely find a deep pleasure and satisfaction in the slow pace and traditional lifestyle. They surround themselves with a simplicity that's strengthened by their religion though their recipe for happiness may seem mystifying in the light of modernity elsewhere.

A young Padaung tribe, an ethnic minority group from Myanmar.

Pages From The Past

Busy Yangon is not a particularly old city, although an initial settlement in the same place dates back 2,500 years. However, the city feels older than any other Southeast Asian city as little here has changed in the past 30 years.

There are few high-rises and traffic congestion is unheard of. What moves in the streets, fringed by buildings in various states of dilapidation, are pedestrians and cyclists with a few motor vehicles from the 50s and early 60s. Some are as old as from the 40s! It is only recently that imports of second-hand vehicles from Japan are allowed.

In the shops, the only things new are cheap goods from China but those looking for unique stones or antiques would be in paradise. I was especially impressed by the fine pieces of art on sale. From the variety of choices, I'm not sure whether it's peace or frustration that drives an artist here. For less than US$25, you could get yourself a masterpiece!

People Of The Lake

The Ayeyarwady River (Irrawaddy River) is fed by the Inke Lake, situated miles away on higher ground at 900m above sea level. The scenery of the river and lake with hazy mountains in the distance, coupled with the interesting local community, turned out to be the best part of my journey. The natural and unpolluted lake is studded with islands, unique leg-rowers and colourful local markets.

Inke Lake is a major attraction in Myanmar. High hills rim the lake on both sides and the islands are home to some 150,000 people, mostly Intha, who tend to their farms there.

Last Royal Capital

We also travelled to Mandalay, the second largest city and the last royal capital of Myanmar which is a centre for the country's silk and cotton weaving industry.

Mandalay is also a cultural and religious centre for Buddhism, with many monasteries, famous temples and more than 700 pagodas of great beauty. At least a third of the nation's 150,000 monks and nuns live here.

Delta At Dawn

A boat trip on the Ayeyarwaddy River took us down to the 11th Century Buddhist archaeological site at Bagan, our last stop. The boat departed Mandalay early in the morning and as the sun rose, a mesmerising landscape emerged through the morning mist - one of bamboo houses on stilts amid the endless green and emerald patchwork of padi fields.

Farmers in broad hats cycled silently along the raised riverbank. Brilliant white pagodas with gilded conical spires dot the landscape. Ox-drawn wooden plows slowly turned the underwater mud, marring the greenery of the fields.

We stopped at a couple of places and saw rustic villages, fishing boats, small cargo boats, bull carts and more - all forming the rhythm of life along Myanmar's longest river.

In The Lost City

A chapter on Bagan, a lost city of over 2,000 staggering

impressive monuments, embodies Burma's golden age and people tend to compare Bagan with Angkor Wat in Cambodia.

Bagan may have seen far fewer tourists than Angkor and while none of the structures can compare to the magnificence of Angkor Wat, the appeal of Bagan is of a much more subtle nature that comes from the endless collection of small temples extending across the plain.

And as there are but a couple of dozen monuments, sometimes a seemingly insignificant no-name structure can yield satisfying discoveries as well.

There are drawbacks. I found the intrusion of many locals who hang around the temples to be tiresome. Unlike Angkor, visitors in Bagan are restricted from climbing on or around many of the temples, and shoes must be removed outside every temple. Still, Bagan is a must-see.

Unity In Isolation

As we journeyed back to Yangon, I began to unravel the large tapestry that's Myanmar. Here, living is a privilege and impressions of the country are subjective, distilled from the people's daily way of life as guided by the Buddha's teachings.

Globalisation is happening. It's not something that can be stopped or accelerated, it's part of the world's evolution and I wonder how Myanmar will move towards a new future.

Perhaps the people have good reasons for their isolation but whatever it is, stepping into Myanmar will give you a better understanding of the unity that comes from being a small isolated unanimity. And that's the beauty within.

Getting There

AirAsia flies to Bangkok daily and connects with AirAsia Thailand to fly to Yangon. Malaysia Airlines flies direct to Yangon except on Tuesday and Thursday while Thai Airways flies daily via Bangkok and then to Yangon.

When In Myanmar...

* Don't raise political questions or make inappropriate statements. It can get you and the locals in trouble.

* Don't buy from one source, including souvenirs. And don't buy at the first shop. Shop around for better prices and services.

* When visiting any temple or pagoda, you MUST remove your shoes. Wear cheap slippers. If you lose them, you won't fret.

* Take off your shoes and socks when entering a private home.

* Wear skirts or shorts below knee length. Your shoulders should not be exposed either.

* Always carry small notes for donations at temple/pagoda and when buying souvenirs.

* If you intend to bring gifts for your Myanmar host, remember that anything western is popular, including T-shirts, lipstick, toys, stickers and baseball-style caps.