POLITICS and power. These two words usually spring to mind when one thinks of Washington, capital of the United States.

Also known as The District or DC - short for the District of Columbia - the city has a reputation for being a hive of political activity.

It is home to the US President, Congress and thousands of government workers. And not to mention the legions of lobbyists and activists who jostle for influence.

In the world of international politics, Washington packs a punch that belies its size - the city is about a quarter the size of Singapore, with a population of around 580,000.

It has enough political landmarks to keep tourists happy for days, too. The White House, where the President lives, and the Capitol Building, whose imposing dome dominates the skyline, are among the top attractions.

The Capitol, where the Senate and House of Representatives conduct business, rises in columned splendour on the east end of the National Mall, a 3.2km avenue of green grass edged by shady trees.

On the opposite end, the statue of Abraham Lincoln sits brooding in a sombre memorial to the president who was felled by an assassin's bullet in 1865.

In between, the 169m-tall Washington Monument, a memorial to the first US president and American founding father, towers over its surroundings.

About a 10-minute walk away is Jefferson Memorial, whose neoclassical style pays homage to another of America's founding fathers and its third president.

These monuments get heavy tourist traffic every year, as do the world-class museums that line the Mall.

One of my favourites is the Holocaust Memorial Museum, which offers a sobering look at Nazi war atrocities committed during World War II.

Housed in a grim-looking building, its architecture evokes an atmosphere that echoes the tragic themes and images documented within.

For art lovers, the National Gallery of Art's superb collection spans 14th-century masterpieces by Italian Renaissance artist Leonardo da Vinci to modern works by Pablo Picasso.

There is also the National Air and Space Museum - perhaps the most-visited museum in the world, with more than nine million people coming every year.

Chock-full of aircraft displays, it does an excellent job at chronicling the development of human flight over the past 100 years or so.

The Spirit of St Louis, the plane in which Charles Lindbergh made the first solo, non-stop flight across the Atlantic in 1927, hangs from the ceiling near the entrance. Nearby stands the Apollo 11 Command Module, which carried the first humans to the moon and back in 1969.

All this, however, is just a small sample of what Washington has to offer. Most visitors leave with their fill of monuments and museums but see little else.

Off the beaten path

HAVING lived here for two years, I've discovered a side of the city that tourists often overlook.

When the crowds get too much for me, I enjoy leaving the beaten path to explore Washington's historic neighbourhoods.

Just a few blocks east of the National Mall is Capitol Hill, a residential area packed with large numbers of congressional staff. Affectionately called The Hill by locals, this is a wonderfully walkable neighbourhood. Take the time to wander around and admire the architecture of the Victorian-style houses.

Due to the area's proximity to the Capitol Building, its restaurants are popular with congressmen. The Monocle, for example, is where you will find US lawmakers schmoozing with other members of the political elite.

A trip to The Hill should also include a visit to the Eastern Market, a bustling farmers' market in a 19th-century red-brick building. It also features a flea market on weekends, where vendors sell antiques, books, paintings and jewellery.

Another historic neighbourhood worth your time is Georgetown. It is Washington's poshest square mile, with trendy stores, restaurants and boutiques lining its main arteries - M Street and Wisconsin Avenue.

For those who pine for something Asian, pop over to Ching Ching Cha, a Chinese teahouse that also serves simple meals of miso salmon and curry chicken.

Apart from the shopping and eating, Georgetown also boasts the tranquil Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, which was a key shipping link in the 19th century.

Escape the maddening crowds by strolling along its banks and you will come across some of the canal's original warehouses, built in 1828.

But the history of the area goes back even further. Georgetown was established in the 1750s and named after the British monarch George II. In fact, as you explore the area, you might stumble on some cobblestone streets lined with beautiful Georgian houses.

A fine example is the manor at Dumbarton Oaks, in the quieter reaches of Georgetown. In 1944, a series of informal conferences held here by the Allied nations laid the foundation for the establishment of the United Nations.

Washington is also rich in African-American history, and one of the best places to experience this is the U Street corridor between 9th and 17th Streets NW. Often referred to as the 'Black Broadway', this musical haven was at the heart of African-American cabaret and social life, especially in the 1920s and 1930s.

World-famous jazz musician Duke Ellington grew up in this neighbourhood, and his mural still adorns the wall of a U Street building. The Duke, along with other jazz greats such as Miles Davis and John Coltrane, used to perform here.

Today, musicians at clubs like HR57 and Twins Jazz carry on that tradition.

Feeling peckish? Pop over to Ben's Chili Bowl along U Street, a Washington institution that has been dishing up burgers and hot dogs since 1958.

For more exotic grub, head over to the nearby Adams Morgan neighbourhood, where you can find an eclectic mix of cuisines from Ethiopian and Spanish to French to Brazilian.

This area - well-known for nightclubs and bars - is also where Washingtonians come to party.

But if you are in the mood for something more literary, then drop by Kramer Books in the Dupont Circle area. In an age where chain bookstores proliferate, this place is a rarity. Its Afterwords Cafe is also a great place for a late-night meal, as it opens 24 hours on Fridays and Saturdays.

And for food-mad Singaporeans, this is surely another reason to feel good about Washington.

5 survival tips

1. Tip. It is a common practice and expected. Leave at least 15 per cent of the bill at restaurants. Taxi drivers should receive 10 to 15 per cent of the fare as a tip.

2. Take the Metro. Carry plenty of one-dollar bills for the farecard machines. Otherwise, you will be saddled with lots of coins as change.

If you are making many trips in a day, buy a one-day travel pass. It is valid after 9.30am and costs US$6.50.

3. Observe escalator etiquette. Washingtonians have a penchant for moving up and down escalators quickly. Stand to the right or you risk being trampled by others who are in a hurry.

4. Climate. Washington summers are warm and humid, with temperatures sometimes reaching more than 35 deg C in July and August. During the winter months between December and February, the mercury usually dips below freezing.

Spring and autumn are good times to visit, especially in April when the cherry blossoms are in full bloom.

5. Taxi fares. The cabs do not have meters. Instead, fares are determined by a zone system. The base fare is US$5 for travel within the central zone, although there are surcharges like US$1.50 for each additional passenger and US$1 for rush-hour travel.

5 things to do

1. Visit the places of power. Though self-guided tours of the White House have been suspended since the Sept 11 attacks, you can still take photos outside as well as drop by the visitor centre in the lobby of the Commerce Department building.

The Capitol remains open to visitors. Get free passes at a kiosk on the south-west corner of the grounds.

The grand Supreme Court building, with its lofty portico rising on 32 Corinthian columns, also merits a visit.

2. See the museums and monuments. While you should visit the Washington, Jefferson and Lincoln memorials, pencil in time for the Vietnam War, Korean War and World War II memorials too.

Take your pick of the many wonderful museums. The International Spy Museum off the Mall is drawing much overt attention.

3. Explore the neighbourhoods. Step off the usual tourist trail to admire the architectural styles of the houses in Capitol Hill and Georgetown. Delve into the city's rich African-American heritage along the UStreet corridor.

4. Watch a show. Washington has a lively arts scene where you can catch world-class performances all year round.

The Kennedy Center is one of the top venues for classical music, opera, ballet and theatre.

For fans of the Bard, the Shakespeare Theater stages regular productions of Shakespearean plays.

Rock music fans can watch concerts at the Verizon Center in downtown Washington. Top names such as U2 and Eric Clapton have performed there.

5. Venture out. Check out the old town of Alexandria across the Potomac River from Washington. Located in the state of Virginia, it contains well-preserved houses from the 18th and 19th centuries.

America's first president George Washington often visited Alexandria. The Gadsby Tavern, which he used to frequent, has been preserved as it might have appeared in his time and it is still open for business.

Just south of Alexandria is Mount Vernon, where Washington lived. The founding father's house and estate have been lovingly preserved. and it has plenty of history too - some of its warehouses date back to 1828.

2 don'ts

1. Do not drive. Dense traffic, complicated roads and hard-to-find parking can make driving in Washington a nightmare.

Use the subway system, called Metrorail, instead. It is convenient and most of the city's major attractions are within walking distance of a subway station. The minimum fare is US$1.35 (S$2.15) and the maximum is US$3.90.

2. Do not court crime. Like any urban area in the US, Washington has its fair share of crime.

Keep away from dark or deserted streets. Try not to wander the streets alone at night and stay with the crowds.

If a neighbourhood looks dangerous, it probably is. If in doubt, ask the locals.