By David Bowden

MALACCA, or Melaka, has long been a favourite destination for its historical attractions that give tourists an insight into multicultural Malaysia. Its recent acceptance in the Unesco World Heritage List and the government's commitment to restoring its heritage buildings breathed new life into this living museum.

Begin exploring the old town near the bridge over the Malacca River, which is built on the site where Portuguese soldiers arrived in 1511. Go on a river cruise to get a glimpse of the lives of those who dwelled here in the past.

The Portuguese conquest of the port was the first of several colonial incursions as Malacca was once a strategic port for shipping Asian spices to Europe.

Portuguese control lasted until the Dutch overthrew them in 1641. After 150 years of occupation and an extensive public building programme, the Dutch ceded control to the British, who ruled Malacca until Malaysian independence in 1957.

The architectural fabric of Malacca's historic heartland is eclectic and visually stimulating, with something interesting around every corner.

Most of the colonial influences are reflected in the architecture of the Dutch Square.

Chinese structures stand adjacent to Dutch-built churches and Moorish-inspired mosques. Most of the colonial influences are reflected in the architecture of Dutch Square and visitors could well be forgiven for thinking they are in old Amsterdam while standing in front of Christ Church and the Stadthuys.

On the hill behind the Stadthuys, the ruins of the St Paul's Church are popular tourist attractions. At the foot of St Paul's Hill is Porta de Santiago which is all that remains of A Famosa Fort. In the early 19th century, the British East India Company wanted to demolish the fort but fortunately, Sir Stamford Raffles intervened and managed to save the gates of Porta de Santiago.

Across the Malacca River, the commercial centre features many old two-storey shops. Today, stores like Abdul's, Jacob Antiques and Malaqa House along Jalan Hang Jebat (Jonkers Street) are popular with antique lovers.

Babas and Nyonyas

One of Malacca's highlights is the unique lifestyle of the Straits Chinese. The Chinese first traded with Malacca in the 15th century and Chinese settlers became known as the Baba (men) and Nyonya (women).

Many Malay customs were adopted through contact and intermarriage, and their cuisine is a blend of both Chinese and Malay styles.

As their wealth grew, so did their passion for luxuries like furniture, jewellery and clothing.

Their houses were lavish: patterned tiles decorate the walls while heavily carved, inlaid Baroque- styled furniture adorn the interiors. The wealthy Nyonyas wore embroidered blouses, sarongs and slippers, and paired these with intricate jewellery.

Fine examples of Baba Nyonyastyled houses can be found at Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock, once known as Malacca's Millionaires Row. Gain an insight to their lifestyle at the Baba-Nyonya Heritage Museum.

The museum opens daily from 10am to 12.30pm and 2pm to 4.30pm.

Museums galore

Visitors can spend several days and still not be able to see all the museums in the city. Discover Malacca's past at the History and Ethnography Museum. Malacca's maritime history is documented in the Maritime Museum situated next to a replica of Flora de la Mar, a Portuguese vessel that sank off Malacca.

Another museum is Muzium Budaya, which is a large wooden replica of a Malacca sultan's palace.

Malacca's most unusual museum is located above the Muzium Rakyat. The Museum of Enduring Beauty explores how people around the world beautify themselves by tattooing, body scarring, foot binding, cosmetic surgery and piercing.

Accommodation

Malacca has a few international- standard hotels and some interesting historic properties. Renaissance Melaka Hotel has well-appointed rooms and facilities to match. Hotel Equatorial Melaka has impressive rooms and views across the Straits of Malacca.

Hotel Puri in Chinatown is a comfortable renovated Peranakan house. Another heritage hotel that has been refurbished is The Majestic Malacca.

For more travel information on Malaysia, visit www.tourism.gov.my

Top photo: Porta de Santiago is all that remains of A Famosa Fort.

This article was produced by the Special Projects Unit, Marketing Division, SPH, and published in The Straits Times "Special - It's all here, Malaysia Truly Asia" on Oct 7, 2008.