"Meow meow." I looked around for a cat. Only caged birds hung along the spacious walkway.

"Woof woof." No dog in sight.

"Hello. Welcome!" Some fluttering in a cage revealed a huffing mynah switching to a high note that was more becoming of a bird. Two huge iguanas watched our surprise turn to laughter, casting a bored look.

Talking birds and monitoring iguanas at the Rainforest Resort in Lombong are not the only wonder at Kota Tinggi. We soon discovered that nature is left as untouched as possible in this quiet and comfortable lodge, built on the site of an abandoned alluvial sand mine, close to the famed waterfalls.

This unpretentious spot, just 56 km from Johor Bahru, has become our favourite haunt when the stresses of life get the better of us. We wake up on Saturday morning, decide that it's a great day to go for a bike ride, and then off we head towards Woodlands Causeway, with a passport, a backpack of overnight clothes and a big smile.

We get there in just under two hours as traffic is usually smooth, roads well paved, with adequate signage flagging the way to Kota Tinggi.

Another way of getting there is to cruise from Changi Ferry Terminal to Tanjong Belungkor, then transfer to Kota Tinggi town by bus or cab.

Kota Tinggi is historically interesting as the once hometown of the Sultanate of Johor, and local tours will take you on a discovery of Malaysian royalty tombs and the fruit farm. We just head straight to this unassuming resort, hire mountain bikes and head up the winding slope towards the roaring waters.

Picnic treat

Even babies can't resist the cold water

The reward for hitting the hot, dusty Malaysian roads is to soak in one of nature's most wondrous spas.

Kota Tinggi's cascading waterfalls from the 634m Gunung Muntahak tumble into three staggered pools, ideal for swimming, soaking or being pummelled by gushing water. Great for stiff muscles and so lovely for the skin.

The Kota Tinggi falls offer a picnic ground and a great place to meet Malaysians who are shy but friendly, breaking into laughter if you cop out of the cold and pounding water.

Kids squeal down water rides, adults trek into the woods, teens tackle the outward bound obstacles, and youths camp out along the river, tucking into hot Ramly burger.

Floating face up in the cold water, I see blue skies invaded by tall trees; high pitched crickets shriek and monkeys skulk. A scene made for Hollywood's Lost? Maybe.

When the sun goes down, you hear the invisible creatures stir. You lose sense of time, and yourself.

Burning Bush

By nightfall, after dinner, we head out for a languid ride on the Johor Bahru river near Kota Tinggi town to watch the bushes along the riverside burn bright.

Fireflies glow as they mate, turning berembang trees into blinking red Christmas trees, an amazing sight that stretches endlessly.

Nature calls out to you at Kota Tinggi. Usually, in most unexpected ways.