TO SAY that you've been to Japan simply because you've been to Tokyo is like saying you know everything about sushi because you never miss an episode of Japan Hour.
If you want to get out of your comfort zone ringed by the likes of Omotesando, Ginza and Shinjuku, seek out the Tohoku region - a quiet corner of Japan that harbours a mystical cultural experience hitherto undiscovered by tourist hordes.
Fans of the Tom Cruise movie The Last Samurai will be particularly intrigued. Translated literally as 'North East' of Japan's largest island Honshu, Tohoku is the crucible of samurai Japan. Resplendently preserved samurai districts with little thatched houses bear testament to the might and influence of the Shoguns in this little known corner of Japan.
Tohoku - which is made up of six prefectures - is easily accessible from Tokyo via the Shinkansen. A smooth 3.5-hour ride along the JR Tohoku Line will bring you to Morioka, the capital of Tohoku.
During the 16th and 17th centuries, towns sprouted and flourished in the Tohoku region as villagers settled around the castle residences of local lords. As Japan's warring society developed, Tohoku was the scene of many conflicts. Its link to its samurai past is evident from its many castle towns such as Nakamachi and Kakunodate where you can find many Edo period (1600-1862) manors, all meticulously restored to their original stately condition. Samurais may be gone but their tradition lives on through many festivals and cultural events scattered through the year.
Snowy wonderland: You can trek along the Appi Kogen's piste (above) or stare at the snow monsters (main pic), best viewed from the summit of Mount Hakkoda in Aomori City, which a gondola ride takes about five minutes to reach. The monsters are actually conifers covered in luminescent silver frost. (Photos: BT)
The best way to explore Tohoku is by car (easily equipped with GPS), so you can take your time driving from Morioka to explore any part of the region.
Before you set off, fortify yourself in Morioka itself, a little town in the Iwate Prefecture which reputedly offers one of the best cold soba in Japan. At 'Azumaya Soba Shop' (Tel: 019-652-2252), you are cajoled into eating as many small servings of 'wanko' soba as possible. As soon as you don an apron, waitresses bring trays of cold soba in small lacquered bowls and stand earnestly beside you. Once you're done, another mound of soba is dropped into your empty bowl until you place a lid on it to say you've had enough. Sticks are used to measure the number of helpings you had and a certificate of gluttony is awarded at the end of it. In between, nibble on side dishes like tuna sashimi, chicken or mushrooms stuffed with minced fish to complete the meal.
Once you're full, drive to Aomori, where you can immerse yourself in local history at its colourful museums, the most popular being Nebutanosato 'Nebuta museum' (Tel: 0173-38-3232). Here, you can gawk at the fantastical giant lanterns depicting Japanese folklore kabuki characters and mythical creatures. If you can catch the Nebuta festival in August, you'll feel like you're at a samurai mardi gras, watching these lanterns carried through the streets of Aomori on processional floats.
Painted in a riot of colours and standing more than six storeys high, these painstakingly built lanterns form a rich palette against the dull night sky before they are eventually torched in a spectacular finale.
If you're heading there soon, you might catch a four-storey high Megatron (of Transformers fame) guarding the entrance. If you're so inclined, the staff are happy to teach you to build a small neputa float in the shape of a goldfish or you can try your hand at some traditional art and craft. Or you can just watch how the real thing is made. It's fascinating to see how wires are shaped into the structure upon which the paper is glued. Artisans from each region design their own lanterns, painting on their own gods and devils with differing levels of menace in their faces - possibly to frighten off other devils that might attack their crops.
Besides the samurai and traditional craft, Tohoku is famous for its winter wonderland countryside. For that reason, a trip to Appi Ski Resort is recommended. The drive itself is a treat as you come face to face with awe-inspiring snow walls and alpine scenery that would give the Swiss Alps a run for its money. Standing like sentinels to its icy heritage, the snow walls through Hokkoda (Aomori City) flank the road for 8 km and rise to dizzying heights of about 9 metres.
Such snow walls can last till late April and are formed by consistent snow dumps. The legendary harsh winters in this area has even given rise to the natural phenomenon called Snow Monsters, best viewed from the summit of Mount Hakkoda in Aomori City. A gondola ride takes all of five minutes to reach the top and once your eyes adjust to the blinding whiteness of the snow, you'll understand why the Snow Monsters are known by such a dreadful name.
Blasted by the Siberian winds, the air cools and envelopes the pine trees with ice. Carved by ferocious winds, the conifers are covered in luminescent silver frost, taking on phantasmagoric appearances. Some take on fantastical or whimsical facial features; some take on the shapes of women ballroom-dancing, or soldiers in battle formation. All the while, you are blasted by the unrelenting wind - so unforgiving that a moment's lapse of concentration would see your camera gobbled up by nature.
Naturally, such drastic snowfall means that this region offers some of the best skiing in Japan. One of the top spots for skiing would be the Appi Ski Resort, which offers everything from snowboarding, to snow trekking and even night skiing on flood-lit slopes. At 282 hectares, the Appi Kogen's piste is one of the largest in Tohoku. Take a chairlift to the top so you can enjoy a spectacular view of the adjacent Mount Iwate and Mount Nishimori.
From the resort, check out the surrounding countryside, particularly the Shirakami-Sanchi National Park, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. If you just missed cherry blossom season in Tokyo, you might be able to catch it here as the trees bloom a little later. Alternatively, wait for autumn when you'll be drenched with the rich earthy hues of fall.
Alternatively, explore the countryside for the ideal spots to work out rusty muscles by golfing, mountain-climbing, trekking or fishing, or just chilling out at the myriad traditional onsens dotted along the countryside.
As you sit back to enjoy a quiet onsen meal, relish also the thought of how there is more to Japan than the glitz and neon lights of Tokyo. The samurai obviously knew they were on to a good thing, and so will you.
