One of Thailand's oldest towns and the second capital of Siam during the Ayutthaya period, Lop Buri is a dignified city.

Rebuilt in the 17th century by King Narai the Great with the help of French architects, its old palaces and temples make it a must-see for anyone interested in history, although today the province is probably better known for its fields of sunflowers and for its monkeys.

To early travellers, Lop Buri was a juncture of world culture, a blend of Siamese, European and Persian architecture spiced up by Indian and Khmer influences. Now it's an important military base founded by Field Marshal Plaek Pibulsongkhram.

A mere 153 kilometres from Bangkok, Lop Buri is perfect for a weekend break and the journey is best by following a circuitous route. Instead of following signs to press straight on at Saraburi, you should turn right onto Highway 2 towards Korat (Nakhon Ratchasima) until you reach Muak Lek, then turn left onto Road 2089 towards Wang Muang, the district of Saraburi that borders Lop Buri. During the winter months, this is a wonderful sight, with fields of sunflowers stretching as far as the eye can see.

There's plenty to see in and around Wang Muang too, including the nearby waterfall, Nam Tok Pa Lan Hin Dad and Pasak Jolasith Dam, the world's longest earthen dam, which straddles Lop Buri and Saraburi.

There are more sunflower fields to explore as you head into Lop Buri: along Roads 3017 and 3333 (in Phattana Nikhom district) and on sections of Road 21 leading to Chai Badan district. The dam can also be accessed by Road 3017 and is a favourite hangout in the afternoon heat.

Next on the circuit is Lop Buri city, which is well served by Road 3017. As the seat of power for King Narai, the city was where the monarch chose to receive most of his overseas visitors and it was only after his death that the government offices moved to Ayutthaya.

At the heart of the town stands Narai Ratchaniwet Palace, an epitome of eastern hospitality, diplomacy and modernity.

Complete with Roman terracotta pipes and a reservoir, the palace incorporates throne halls, grand banquet halls and royal residences in brick masonry, plus an elephant corral.

Not to be missed is the Chanthara Phisan Throne Hall, which is captured in a famous painting showing the King reaching down from the throne to grab a letter from Louis XIV presented by Chavalier de Chaumont. The palace, which is set in a leafy environment with thick foliage providing muchneeded shade, is an oasis of tranquillity and perfect for a break.

Near the palace stands Wichayen House, former residence of Constantin Phaulkon, the young Greek adventurer-turned-minister in King Narai's court. Phaulkon was King Narai's trusted aide and rose to high office under his reign amid widespread scepticism that he was there to convert the king to Christianity, thus allowing France to take over the kingdom. He was executed when the throne changed hands.

A twostorey structure of brick masonry in a mix of Thai and European architectural styles with a big grass lawn, the residence and its surrounding buildings also housed the first French diplomatic mission led by de Chaumont in 1685. Left empty for almost 200 years after the monarch passed away, renovations were finally started in 1863 at the orders of King Rama IV.

Phra Prang Samyod, located just next to the railway road on Narai Road, is a 13thcentury Khmer temple built by King Chaivarman VII. Originally housing images of Mahayana Buddhism and then Hindu gods, the temple is now home to hundreds of monkeys that enjoy the annual feasts held there by the authorities. More monkeys can be found at the nearby San Phra Kan shrine. And while it's true that the monkeys do attract visitors, they can also be real pests, with many locals complaining about their behaviour.

On the way back to Bangkok, complete the circuit by taking Highway 32 to Ayutthaya and reflect for a while on the beauty of these two glorious former capitals.

GETTING THERE

Lop Buri is well served by Highway 1, but to avoid driving the same route to and from Bangkok, it's better to take highway 1 out of Bangkok then turn right into highway 2 on reaching Saraburi. Keep going straight until you reach Muak Lek then turn left into road 2089 to Wang Muang, home to fields of sunflowers. Follow road 3017 from Wang Muang to Pasak Cholasith Dam then onwards to Lop Buri town.

On the way back, leave Lop Buri on road 3196 and then follow road 347 to Ayutthaya. Road 32 runs from Ayutthaya back to Bangkok.