A few minutes from Bangkok's eastern suburbs lie sprawling paddy fields, fish farms, rural villages and numerous roadside stalls selling a weird but surprisingly tasty snack - grilled noo naa (mice), the major pest of rice paddies.
A mere 83 kilometres from downtown Bangkok, and just 30 minutes from Suvarnabhumi Airport, Chachoengsao province, which lies on the banks of the Bang Pakong River, has many hidden gems just waiting to be discovered.
Chachoengsao, which thrives on its fertile land and aquatic culture, is crisscrossed with a labyrinthine network of canals and carpeted with rice paddies that seem to be green all year round.
A must-visit is talad Klong Suan Roi Pee, the traditional market on the banks of Prawetburirom Canal that's being going for more than a century. Spread over Samut Prakhan and Chachoengsao, it's a stone's throw from Suvarnabhumi Airport. From Bangkok, just follow Onnut Road (Sukhumvit Soi 77) through Lat Krabang (it eventually becomes known as Lat Krabang Road - Road 3001) straight to Klong Suan, where it connects with Road 314.
The 27km section of Road 3001 between Klong Suan and Lat Krabang's Hua Ta Kae market runs past the residence of former Prime Minister Surayud Chulanont, the Royal Golf Course, acres of paddy fields and Bang Bo's numerous pla salid fish ponds.
A century ago, the people of Klong Suan went to the capital to chill out or trade by way of Klong Prawetburirom, which was dug during the fifth reign. It took them half a day to paddle upstream to Lat Krabang, even longer to reach Phra Kanong. That is like paddling from Venice to the Lido. But these villagers are themselves sons of the canals that lead to other far-flung destinations like the Gulf of Thailand.
Today, Bangkokians come to Klong Suan for its market, which runs in a straight line along the banks and sports rows of two-storey wooden shophouses selling old-style Thai coffee and tea, noodles, plastic and rare tin toys, Thai sweetmeats, chicken and duck soups, kitchen utensils and bamboo fishing accessories.
After shopping, drive to downtown Chachoengsao to take in the view from the Bang Pakong River.
Follow Road 314, turn right at Chachoengsao Railway Station then head for the bridge, from where you get a panoramic view of the city that lies ahead, and the golden spires of Wat Sothon Wararam Worawihan, another must-see landmark.
Built in the late Ayutthaya period, Wat Sothon boasts a Bt2.5-billion prayer chapel that houses the highly revered, 200-year-old seated Buddha image called Luang Phor Buddha Sothon, believed to have been installed here during the Thonburi period.
After a temple tour, relax in downtown Chachoengsao on the vast promenade that runs along the river bank near Chachoengsao Hospital.
If you're tired of driving, why not see the sights from the water? Boats depart regularly from the piers near Tambon Tha Kham Municipal Office at the mouth of Bang Pakong River. The road that leads to this office is off Bangna-Trat Highway near the Bang Pakong Bridge.
From November to January, the boat will take you to see dolphins in the Gulf of Thailand, while the rest of the year, you can admire the sunset or disembark at one of the seafood restaurants that line the riverbank. Enjoy!
How to get there
Chachoensao is accessible from Bangna-Trat Highway to the south, and Highway 304 to the north.
However, to take advantage of the province's rustic charms, take Road 3001 (Lat Krabang Road) to Klong Suan Market then connect with Road 314 in Chachoengsao. Once in Klong Suan, head to downtown by following 3001 until it meets 314. Turn right into 304 and follow the road until your reach the main railway station. To get to Wat Sothon, take Si Sothon Road off Highway 304 and drive along the bank of Bang Pakong River.
From Wat Sothon, head southwards on Road 314, which links with Bangna-Trat Highway (No 34), to get to the mouth of Bang Pakong river for boating, dolphin spotting and sunset tours.
