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Sun, May 24, 2009
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On the road

by Grace Loh

Judging from our busy schedules, it seemed that a lengthy vacation for my husband Q and I would be a long time away, and often the drudgery of routine brings a lull to even a good marriage.

We decided that an idyllic drive down the Grand Pacific Drive might just be the ideal escape for the time-poor urbanite couple, like us, for a quick getaway.

We packed a picnic basket, cosy blankets, our bicycles, Q's fishing rods, and extra clothing, and set off on an early Friday morning for our little retreat. With just the two of us, we sat back and put on the cruise control, exploring NSW's sprawling southern coastline across a long weekend.


Stanwell Park from Stanwell Tops.

We travelled about 45 minutes down south from Sydney city, observing the freshness of the crisp clean air as we approached the Royal National Park - the second oldest National Park in the world - awash with its exquisite natural splendour, panoramic seascapes, dramatic cliff drops, thriving rainforests and breathtaking beaches.

After paying for our vehicle entry fee and gathering information at the visitors centre at Audley, we stopped over at Bungoona lookout to take in the magnificent view of the Port Hacking River, and then to the Governor Game lookout to experience the staggering landscape of the sandstone headlands that plunged down to sandy-white beaches.

Standing over the sweeping views, Q and I had begun to be awe-struck and humbled by the expanse that lay beneath us. With smiles and a firm squeeze of hands, we knew we were about to thoroughly enjoy the journey up ahead.

Driving on through, we made our next stop at Red Cedar Flat and set up a picnic with the enchanting rainforest as our backdrop. After feasting on some fresh ciabatta bread, pate and fresh fruit, we took a short wander along the tracks, taking in the tranquillity of the forest.

Our next stopover was Garie beach, where we decided we were too chicken to swim in the May weather's chill, and Q tried his hand at catch-and-release fishing instead. As I lazily lolled by the beach with a book in hand, I watched some folk much braver than us soak up the invigorating surf, and expertly ride the waves on their surfboards.

Back in the car, we meandered along Lady Wakehurst Drive stopping by at Bald Hill, which is considered one of the most stunning lookout points. The sky was spotted with those who had taken on the adventurous option to enjoy the astounding panorama from a bird's eye view by tandem hand gliding and paragliding. We paid a quick visit to the Sri Venkateswara Temple, and were charmed by the resplendent colours amidst the beauty of Helensburgh's hills and groves.

Back behind the wheel, we whisked off to the Symbio Wildlife Park where we spent a couple of hours, not being able to resist the chance to cuddle a koala and to view the menagerie of animals from all around the world.

Cruising down from Stanwell Park, we made our late-lunch pit stop at Austi Beach Cafe at Austinmer Beach, getting our fill with the catch of the day and refreshing juices, and satisfying our hankering for home-made gelato with the tantalising variety they had on offer. A little detour up Moore Street, Austinmer gave us the opportunity to blithely browse through the selection of clothing and home wares at the local boutiques, with a take-away coffee in hand from the Fireworks Cafe.

We decided to skip Austinmer Beach's much talked-about nightlife to continue our journey to the coastal city of Wollongong, the third largest city in New South Wales. We had pre-booked accommodation at the Novotel Wollongong Hotel, Northbeach, for a couple of nights, allowing ample time for exploration around the area.

Arriving close to dinner time and after our check-in, we took a stroll along the beachfront to decide where to dine at, finally settling for the Beachouse Seafood Restaurant. With floor to ceiling windows, we indulged in the signature seafood platter, whilst enjoying the ocean vista.


Flagstaff Hill: View to Bowen harbour and town centre.


After dinner when dusk had just set in, we wandered along the beachfront over to Flagstaff Hill to enjoy the panoramic view of Wollongong, just in time to catch Shipwrecked, the sound and light show telling the tragic tale of the Loch Ard disaster. We then slipped back into the hotel, into our ocean view room to enjoy a glass of shiraz on the private balcony before calling it a night.

The next morning, we set out nice and early for a morning stroll along the northern beachfront to Diggies Cafe for an Aussie breakfast of fruit muesli and vegemite on toast; and then off to the Nan Tien Temple, which means 'Paradise of the Southern Hemisphere' in Chinese.

As we giggled through an attempt at meditation class, decidedly requiring far more discipline, we resolved to have lunch instead, and to sample some local beer at Five Islands Brewery, Australia's largest microbrewery.

Over shared lounge plates of salt and pepper squid with Vietnamese nuoc cham and roast duck rice paper rolls, I came to a decision that the South Peach was a clear favourite, similar to a Belgian Peche, starting off syrupy and ending with a mild tart and dry finish. Q also teasingly noted that it was the most "girly" out of the selection. His choice was the Longboard, with its characteristic citrus flavour due to the addition of orange peel and coriander.

Driving back up to Wollongong, our afternoon was spent biking around the city and along South Wollongong City Beach, and a short drive back up to Fairy Meadow to spend a couple of educational hours at the Science Centre and Planetarium. We returned by late afternoon to treat ourselves to a massage at the hotel spa before heading out for dinner.

Sunday morning saw us drive out of Wollongong through Shellharbour village, with the stereo up, cruising past the picturesque beachside town, continuing onto Kiama. Approximately 38 kilometres from Shellharbour, it is considered by many to be the most spectacular part of the route, with rolling hills running into the dramatic coastline, Q and I were simply awe-struck by the scenery on this leg of the drive.


Hyams Beach, Jervis Bay, Shoalhaven, NSW South Coast.

Q was especially excited about heading into Kiama due to his penchant for fishing, as it promised amazing water bodies perfect for all forms of water sports and activities. We paid a visit to the renowned Kiama Blowhole before chartering a boat from Kiama Harbour to spend several relaxing hours fishing on the tranquil waters.

Giving Jamberoo Action Park a miss this time and deciding to return in the warmer months, we drove on for a quick bite at the Crooked River Winery, in Gerringong, where we became more acquainted with the plummy Chambourcin, a French hybrid red grape variety that is grown vastly in the region.

Heading on to Shoalhaven, we targeted Hyams Beach in Jervis Bay as one of our final stops, based on its legendary white sands. Our choice paid off as we caught sight of several kangaroos hopping along the beach, and dolphins playing in the crystal clear waters. This coastal gem was unequivocally one of our favourite discoveries as we had never experienced anything like it.

Venturing down further south to Bateman's Bay, we reached The Oyster Shed on the Clyde River embankment. Reputed to have the state's cleanest waters, the oyster industry has thrived in the locale. Being oyster aficionados, we were definitely not disappointed with the numerous tasty morsels we devoured that afternoon.

Moving back up along the Princes highway, we drove to Huskisson and visited the Lady Denman Heritage Complex that is home to the Lady Denman Ferry and a maritime museum that tells of the town's shipbuilding history.

We finished off our journey with a memorable dinner amidst the paperbark trees at The Gunyah Restaurant. Set far above the ground amongst the treetops, the setting worked its hypnotic charm; the combination of candlelight, wooden interiors and the scent of eucalyptus piquing one's senses, as we grazed on the fresh regional produce.

Our journey had come to a reluctant end as we headed back towards Sydney. We were rejuvenated, and our shared discoveries brought us closer yet again. Our voyage along the Grand Pacific Drive had been short, though nonetheless it had definitely served to sweeten the long road ahead of us.

For more information visit www.australia.com.


The author is a freelance copywriter who relocated from Singapore to Sydney a couple of years ago. She currently resides in a residential apartment block right smack in the Sydney CBD, flanked by the hustle and bustle of Martin Place, and in comforting proximity of Tiffany and Jimmy Choo boutiques.

Epitomising the city-dwelling Sydney-sider, she has a predilection for pretty shoes, gourmet fodder, and strong coffee but is sensible enough to find Doga (Dog Yoga) downright ridiculous.

Companioned by her husband, the weekends bring on the semblance of breathing space and down-time from work and allow them some time to unwind together. They both relish city-living, though they delight in the possibilities of exploration, and wholly appreciate the beauty and expanse the Australian countryside has to offer.


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