Think Goa is all about rave parties and raucous festive jamborees, a playground for package tourists and backpackers who swarm its sun-kissed beaches each year?

It may have earned a reputation as the "Ibiza of the East", but this tiny state on the southwest coast of India has a quieter, charming side.

Its quaint capital city of Panjim and less crowded beaches in the south all make for an ideal getaway where you and your other half can kick off your heels and slip into a romantic mode.

Paradise found

With over 40 beaches dotted along Goa's 95-km coastline, you will be spoilt for choice when it comes to deciding where you want to hole up for your "sun, sea and sand holiday". There are the famous beaches of Calangute, Baga and Vagator in the North and Colva, Benaulim, Palolem and Patnem in the South.

Many of them fit the bill of a paradise beach: Palm-fringed with endless stretches of golden sand and waves of the Arabian Sea caressing the shores.

Though some beaches can get very crowded during the peak season, others - like Vagator, Benaulim and Patnem - make picture-perfect spots for a romantic sunset stroll.

Cruise control

There is something very romantic about taking a sunset cruise aboard a rustic-style houseboat. Glide past greener-than-green paddy fields and sleepy villages that offer you glimpses into the traditional rural way of life.

You can even try catching your own fish for dinner. Most houseboats also come with an upper deck (www.goacruises.com) to retreat to when dusk falls. You and your significant other can watch the sunset while tucking into delightful seafood dishes, washed down with wine or beer.

Colonial charm

You would be forgiven for thinking you are somewhere in Portugal when exploring the back alleys of Panjim, Goa's laidback capital. This is not surprising, since Goa was under Portuguese rule for 450 years before India took it back in 1961.

A stroll around this compact city yields many postcard-pretty sights, especially in the backstreets of the old quarter, Fontainhas. Quaint Portuguese-style houses, awash in vibrant hues, and Catholic churches greet you at every street corner.

Less than an hour away by bus lies Old Goa, the former capital where vestiges of the Portuguese era still live on. There are scores of old churches, the most legendary edifice being the Basilica of Bom Jesus, which holds the remains of St Francis Xavier, the famous 16th-century missionary.

Many of the awe-inspiring churches boast imposing facades and gilt altars, making you feel like you are cathedral-hopping in Europe. Do not miss the romantic ruins of the Church of St Augustine - its lone standing tower and old-world feel will definitely make for a memorable honeymoon snapshot.

To market, to market

Need to pick up souvenirs or even some lovely bedspreads and sofa throws for your new home? Anjuna's Wednesday flea market (closed in the off-season) is a sprawling bazaar filled with a mind-boggling cornucopia of goods from almost every part of India.

The hundreds of stalls that sit cheek-by-jowl are an assault of colours, selling everything from accessories to textiles, wood carvings and outfits with intricate embroidery and mirror work.

Working your way slowly through the stalls, you will reach the other end of the bazaar, where the beach shacks are. Park yourself at any of the breezy eateries and recover from all the haggling you have done with some lip-smacking seafood accompanied by an icedcold beer or fresh lime soda.

Eat, drink and be merry

Goa is a seafood lover's paradise. Its cuisine is a unique blend of Portuguese and Indian cooking styles, and features copious portions of coconut, tamarind, chilli and palm vinegar. Dining out at a beach shack is de rigueur, what with ocean-fresh seafood - ranging from kingfish to giant prawns and mussels - available in great abundance.

Goa is also the birthplace of pork vindaloo, a tangy curry which can also be cooked with chicken or fish. Another hearty meat speciality is chicken or mutton xacutti (the gravy is made from spices, coconut, peanuts and chilli). Local desserts are just as rich - try a slice of bebinca, a kueh lapis-style confection that is much denser, with lots of egg yolk and coconut.

Like eating, drinking is also treated as an event. There is the ubiquitous Kingfisher beer, local port and spirits, and feni, a traditional tipple made from cashew fruit or coconut sap.

Jacqueline Tan is a freelance writer.

Photos: Koh Yee Ling

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Goa is best during...

The dry and relatively cool "winter" months from November to March are the best time to visit Goa. Mid-December to end-January are the peak tourist seasons, but they are also the best times to catch Goa's party scene. The monsoon season (June to September), which sees relentless downpours, is best avoided, unless you are ahopeless romantic and do not mind staying at a resort all day listening to the sound of rainfall in between ayurvedic massages.

For customised packages, visit www.indiainvites.com. This small but reliable travel agenttailors packages and arranges accommodation according to your budget and needs.

Getting there

By air: Catch a one-hour flight from Mumbai to Goa. Flights (including Jet Airways and Indian) land at Dabolim Airport, 29km south of Panjim.
By train: Trains like the Mandovi Express and Konkan Express leave Mumbai for Goa daily. It's a 12- to 14-hour train ride, with spectacular views of the Konkan coast.