TASMANIA is Australia's only island state and, along with its vast World Heritage wilderness, has a reputation for four discernable seasons. And while Tasmanians treasure their wilderness and abundant wildlife, there is another feature that might be considered a part of the island's jewels - autumn.

Tasmania might be 42 degrees south of the equator, but it is just an hour's flight from mainland Australia. In the southern hemisphere, autumn occurs in March, April and May, and in Tasmania, this means crisp, clean air, even crisper apples and the exquisite crunch of golden leaves under your feet. While autumn days are calm, generally sunny and cool, nobody to my knowledge visits for the climate. It's Mother Nature's oeuvre that is the draw.

In capital Hobart, for instance, gardens planted with species redolent of England become resplendent with stunning ambers, reds and yellows. The contrast with the non-deciduous native landscape can make the countryside almost as lively as an artist's palette.

The essence of Tasmania's autumn can be found in Hobart's Botanical Gardens. The Garden's first superintendent, Mr William Davidson, was appointed in 1828 and set about importing plants from England as well as collecting native species from Mount Wellington.

Today, there are stately trees all over the garden. The National Trust of Tasmania has a Significant Tree register, and it includes 64 trees planted in these gardens, including all the grand oaks. During autumn, local children are fond of rummaging about the leaves that cover the ground like a great duvet, and there is no reason why curious adults cannot share in the novelty.

Other highlights include a conservatory (the chrysanthemums will be flowering in autumn), the sub-Antarctic house and a carefully tended Japanese Garden.

Beyond Hobart, there are many touring routes that guide visitors to the best of autumn's colours, such as the Rivers Run. This trail chases the Derwent River, where Hobart nestles, into the heart of Tasmania.

New Norfolk is less than an hour's drive from Hobart. The town is rich with historic buildings but, in autumn, much of its natural charm comes from the towering poplars. The yellows and oranges of their leaves can seem as bright as a bonfire. While lolling cattle and vineyards bloom hereabouts, so do hops, which are an essential component of beer.

One of Tasmania's oldest and best-loved national parks lies just beyond the raging poplars. Mt Field has a delightful waterfall, and there is plenty of wildlife around, including wallabies. But during autumn, it is the native tree - the beech - that is autumn's pot of gold.

Around Mt Field, the deciduous beech (Nothofagus gunnii) is Australia's only winter-deciduous tree. In autumn, this humble tree turns a spectacular range of colours, from rust red through to brilliant gold, between late April and May. Best of all, they are all over Mt Field.

While at Mt Field, you might consider a detour into the Styx Valley. This is the home of the world's tallest flowering tree, the Eucalyptus regnans. The tallest has a height of 97m and a diameter of 2.9m. These giants are an amazing sight to capture on film.

The Rivers Run tour takes four days and ends in the pristine Lake St Clair, part of Tasmania's World Heritage wilderness.

Elsewhere, around the Huon Valley south of Hobart, the apple pickers are busy, and in the vineyards, so are the grape harvesters. Many of the grapes might just end up in the bottle of one of the Tasmania's renowned pinot noirs.

In autumn, as the night begins to chill, cosying up to an open fire will warm your extremities. But a glass or two of a celebrated pinot will warm your insides almost as much as Tasmania's surfeit of colours.

Greg Clarke is a freelance writer based in Tasmania.

Photos: Tourism Tasmania

Note: This article was part of the Natas Travel 2006 Special published in The Straits Times on March 23, 2006. As a reference to the project's main lead, 'Travel is a numbers game', it's original headline in print was: '97 metres straight up, soars the world's tallest flowering tree in Tasmania'.