GO SIGHTSEEING: Bell-shaped stupas with large painted eyes are the quintessential symbol of Nepal.

THERE is much more to Nepal than Mount Everest. If it didn't have the tallest peak in the world, it would probably be lost between Asian giants China and India.

Landlocked by these two, Nepal still manages to shine through its vibrant culture and gorgeous landscape.

The plane journey gets significantly more exciting as you draw closer to Kathmandu, the capital. With a distant view of the snowcapped Himalayas, passengers clamoured to the windows on the right side of the plane for a glimpse of the majestic mountain range.

More than 200 times the size of Singapore, Nepal is home to only an estimated 28.9 million people, about six times the population here.

It is, however, home to hundreds of species of wildlife, boasts thousands of hectares of protected natural landscape, and a host of ethnic groups and spoken languages.

I quickly understood the importance of a tika, red powder applied with the thumb to a person's forehead. The one I received at the hotel upon check-in was the first of many during my stay.

Besides marking an important energy point (chakra) according to ancient Indian philosophy, it represents the all-seeing third eye, symbolic of knowledge and enlightenment.

Getting around the city is easy as taxis are easily available. I did encounter a taxi driver who pocketed a few extra rupees hoping I wouldn't notice, and I pretended I didn't.

As I left the hotel, my senses were flooded with food smells, colourful clothing and sounds of traffic mingled with foreign languages.

Kathmandu felt like a culture-rich, century-old town struggling to inch its way into the millennium, resulting in haphazard streets and congestion.

However, as I wandered on the side streets along the busy marketplace of Asan Tole or Indra Chowk on the way to Durbar Square, I was surprised at the treasures I stumbled upon.

A boy helping his parents sell spices and coloured powder.

Little girls were selling beautiful ocher magnolias and laundry women were going about their daily washing in communal areas.

I found myself getting lost in time in a place where everyone knew everyone else's name, business was conducted on trust, and farm animals still roamed the streets freely.

Over the next couple of days, I fell more and more in love with Nepal.

Exploring the nearby cities of Bhaktapur and Patan are definitely cultural highlights of the Kathmandu Valley.

Bhaktapur, literally translated into the City of Devotees, is a town of traditional arts and architecture. From potters spinning their wheels to women drying newly harvested rice, it is a window into the lives of the indigenous Newar community.

Patan, besides also being known for fine arts, has the most impressive Durbar Square in the Kathmandu valley. Its architectural splendour is depicted in pagodas and temples concentrated in the city centre.

Religion is a cornerstone in Nepalese life. Hinduism is most commonly practised, followed by Buddhism.

Boudnath Stupa is one of the world's largest stupas, and is 11km north-east of Kathmandu's city centre. A large population of Tibetan exiles dressed in maroon robes can be seen circling the stupa in a clockwise direction.

CLEAN AND LEAN: Nepalese housewives gather to chat and wash laundry by hand in the old centre of Kathmandu.

With streams of multi-coloured prayer flags, the site is at its most beautiful at sunset and the view is magnificent from the top of the stupa.

Pashupatinath Temple is on the banks of the holy Bagmati River, believed to be a tributary of the Ganges in India.

Similarly, it is a popular place for Hindus to be cremated. As many as five cremations are visible at any one time but photo-taking tourists are advised to be discreet and respectful of grieving families.

VIEW FROM THE TOP: A Kathmandu resident peers out of the window of his house, where colourful cloths are hung to dry.

Swayambunath Stupa is one of the most important Buddhist sites. The all-seeing Buddha eyes atop the stupa keep watch as worshippers, tourists, peddlers and holy men walk around the holy site, spinning prayer wheels and lighting lamps for enlightenment and happiness.

Bell-shaped stupas with large painted Buddha eyes are the quintessential symbol of Nepal, along with different incarnations of Vishnu, Shiva and Parvati from Hindu mythology.

Compared to a 17-day hike to Everest's base camp, a three-hour one may sound like a walk in the park. And apart from huffing up a few hills, it pretty much was.

The hike from Changu Narayan to the beautiful hill resort of Nagarkot gave me a sense of peace as I wandered through knolls and grassy hills overlooking the valley.

The hike ended at the hill resort of Nagarkot, best known for its views of the Himalayas, cool mountain weather and morning sunrises. Accommodation is available at Hotel Country Villa, with average rates at US$50 (S$72.40) for a double room.

No trip to Nepal would be complete without at least seeing Mount Everest. Take the US$145 Everest Flight by Yeti Airlines.

This hour-long flight takes you above the clouds and gives you a breathtaking, close-up view of the Himalayan range. All passengers are given a window seat and are invited to the cockpit to take photos.

Maps are provided on board and the knowledgeable stewardess points out each mountain as you fly past. I didn't think that the view of Mount Everest would take my breath away, but just seeing the 'top of the world', where so many have lost their lives trying to scale it, did leave me awestruck.

Venturing out of Kathmandu is imperative to get a more well-rounded appreciation for Nepal. Getting around in public transport requires a bit of effort and is perhaps recommended only for the seasoned traveller. But hiring a van, driver and guide with a group of friends can be relatively affordable.

Alternatively, internal flights are easily available. If you have less than two weeks in Nepal, a short five-day loop encompassing Royal Chitwan National Park and the town of Pokhara is essential.

Royal Chitwan National Park is less than 200km from Kathmandu. At over 900 sq km, this protected tropical forest is most commonly known for being one of the last refuges of the endangered one-horned Indian rhinoceros.

Chitwan also boasts other wildlife such as snouted gharials (Gangetic crocodile), spotted deer, hundreds of species of birds, Bengal tigers and Indian elephants, all of which (except the elusive tigers) are easily spotted during an hour-long elephant trekking safari, riverboat rides or guided jungle walks.

Don't miss the entertaining elephant bathing session around lunchtime when you can bathe with the animals or enjoy a cool drink watching the hilarious spectacle of tourists being sprayed and shaken off the elephants' backs.

NO BURDEN TOO HEAVY: Women carrying heavy loads on their backs are a common sight in the hill ranges of Nepal.

A six-hour ride from Chitwan will take you to Pokhara. Set in a valley draped by the Annapurna mountain range, this charming town is bustling with travellers.

Pokhara is a starting and ending point for many of the most scenic treks in Nepal. The town sprawls around the beautiful Phewa lake, which on calm clear days perfectly reflects the surrounding mountains.

Besides trekking, boating and paragliding are among the most common activities in Pokhara. And with the comfort of cozy cafes, Internet access, international cuisine and good accommodation, Pokhara really does have it all.

Good accommodation is available at Hotel Barahi with room rates from US$41.

Nepal's landscape is as varied as its culture. From the icy Himalayas and rolling grasslands and rivers in the north and west, to the tropical jungles in the south, I tried to keep awake as much as possible while moving from one place to the next.

There was always something to see, intriguing people to stop and talk to, trinkets to buy and things to eat. Dal bhat (lentils with rice), momo (steamed dumplings) and masala tea are found on virtually every local menu.

Nepal is beautiful in every respect. Though most of the population live below the poverty line and literacy rates are relatively low, there is happiness and hope in the faces of children.

And that, even if you don't quite get the third eye, is not hard to see.

stlife@sph.com.sg

Photos: Jeremy J. Lim

This trip was made possible by SilkAir and the Nepal Tourism Board. SilkAir flies direct to Kathmandu three times a week.