White sand, warm seas, marathon parties and great hospitality - the Indian state of Goa has it all. Despite the beach paradise's reputation taking a hit - the ongoing high-profile case of drugged, raped and murdered British teenager Scarlett Keeling, 15, has brought to light a seedy underbelly fuelled by rampant drug use and a corrupt police force - Goa remains a warm and friendly destination.

The risk-averse types might prefer to head to Hawaii or Sentosa for that relaxing beach holiday. But if you're looking for a destination slightly more off the beaten track, yet equipped with a vibrant party scene with revellers from across the globe and mouthwatering food at dirt-cheap prices, Goa is hard to beat.

ROLL OUT THE RED CARPET: With its hippie reputation, the Arambol beach is a hot spot among the young, including Israelis celebrating the end of their military service.

Contrary to its current image, there are no drug peddlers lurking around every corner (just some), and the only sleaze that's hard to avoid is the occasional group of men perving at bikini-clad women on the beaches.

In fact, as long as you act sensibly, there is no reason anyone, even a young woman or people with children, should miss out on a rewarding Goan experience.

Food's cheap, shopping's great

Goa enjoys sunshine and low humidity all year round, except from June to September, when the monsoons rage. The height of the party season is October through April, especially around Christmas and the New Year.

A Portuguese colony until 1961, Goa was first adopted as a beach getaway by hippies looking for untouched beaches and laid-back, friendly locals.

Though traces of its counterculture roots remain in the form of fluorescent clothing and trance music, Goa, which sees about two million visitors each year - a quarter of whom are from abroad - is admittedly no longer the virgin territory it once was.

On the bright side, that means many more options. Those used to package tours and creature comforts can enjoy central beaches such as Baga, Candolim and Calangute, which are equipped with Western-style hotel resorts and snazzy nightclubs.

The young (or young at heart) should head north to Anjuna, Arambol and Vagator. The bastion of hippie-dom, these are popular with backpackers and especially young Israelis celebrating the end of their military service.

And those looking for more laid-back, subdued surroundings can head south to Palolem (though it has become increasingly touristy after being featured in 2004's The Bourne Supremacy), Agonda, Benaulim and Patnem.

Hostels and inns for everyone from backpackers to honeymooners are aplenty (200 to 500 rupees per night, or S$6.90 to S$17.30), and locals in the service industry - from hotel staff to waiters to taxi drivers - speak English.

The best meals are always found at the beach shacks, which offer a wide range of cuisine, with South Indian and Israeli being the most popular (200 rupees will get you a full meal with drinks).

While it is not advisable to drink tap water, anything bottled is generally fine. Freshly squeezed fruit juice and the local Kingfisher beer are the most satisfying.

Getting around Goa is easy. Most visitors arrive via Dabolim, Goa's only airport. From there, there are numerous transport options.

The adventurous and those on a budget can take the extensive bus system, which costs less than 20 rupees for a 50-minute journey. Just make sure you have small change to pay the conductor, and be prepared to squish up against your fellow travellers.

Few taxis in Goa use meters and prices are agreed upon beforehand. Cheapest of these are motorcycle taxis, where you ride pillion with the rider (40 rupees for a 20-minute ride).

If you're in a group of three or more, most comfortable and convenient is a taxi or "tourist vehicle" (150 rupees for 20 minutes), which is usually a six-seater mini-van. Most of these are in surprisingly good condition, though the bumpy roads and non-existent road rules still make for an exciting ride.

If you can cycle or have a motorcycle licence, you can rent a bike (50 to 100 rupees per day) or scooter (150 to 250 rupees per day), though again remember that you'll be travelling on rough roads with minimal or no street lights at night.

And when you get to your destination and are happily sitting in a shack or lying under a beach umbrella, you will frequently be accosted by hawkers selling everything from coconuts to the Kama Sutra.

If you are walking, you might find yourself taken by the arm and asked to "come see my shop". Some hawkers can be rather persistent and the only way to get them to leave you alone is either by being even more persistent at saying no, or simply agreeing to take a look at their wares.

Part of the fun of Goa is shopping anyway, and the beachside stalls sell the usual array of sequinned skirts, T-shirts, sling bags, beaded jewellery and other exotic- looking items that would cost several times as much at a so-called "flea market" back home.

MOO-VE WITH IT: The weekly Anjuna Flea market on Wednesdays is a riot of colours and smells, and it is where you can pick up exotic souvenirs at dirt-cheap prices. Bargaining is part of the fun, so go ahead and haggle over prices.

The best place to go shopping is at the weekly Anjuna Flea Market on Wednesdays. Hawkers from all over Goa congregate from dawn to dusk in a maze-like gathering of stalls by the beach.

Bargaining the price down by at least 50 per cent is standard practice. Don't shake hands unless they name the price you want to pay.

On a side note, do remember that these people earn a pittance and often have to support large families. A mere dollar or two to you might mean a good meal for them.

Besides hawkers, another thing Goa has in abundance are cows. There will be cows by the road, cows by the sea and cows in the flea market.

Leave them alone and they'll leave you alone; the only danger they pose is in the form of cow pats, which are usually found by the side of the road and certain parts of the beach.

Surf, dive and see ruins

Though it's surprisingly difficult to get bored of lying on the beach, the more actively-inclined will not find a lack of activities to partake in.

The shallow sea at most beaches makes romping in the surf safe even for children and those who can't swim, while the deeper waters further out are ideal for water sports from scuba diving to windsurfing.

Check out the National Institute of Water Sports at the state capital of Panjim (niws.nic.in) or Barracuda Diving India (www.barra cudadiving.com) at Miramar Beach, which offer courses in numerous water sports, catering to both newbies and old hands.

Another popular activity is kiteboarding (riding a surfboard while letting a kite pull you along), though there is currently no formal school. However, there are usually enthusiasts who offer lessons at Anjuna and Arambol - just keep an eye out for posters, or ask around.

Those looking for a bit of culture can enjoy the famed Portuguese architecture of Old Goa, the former capital. Popular sites include the ruins of the Church of St Augustine, which was abandoned in 1835 due to the repressive policies of the Portuguese government, as well as the grand Basilica De Bom Jesus, where the remains of Saint Francis Xavier are on display.

PRESENCE OF THE PAST: The ruins of the Church of St Augustine in Old Goa is one of the historical attractions of the former Portugese colony.

Unless you are a hardcore history fan, a visit should take only four to five hours, including a side trip to the historical Fort Aguada near Calangute, which includes the oldest Portuguese lighthouse in Asia.

Do note that despite the free and easy party atmosphere of the beaches, you are still in India where most people are conservative.

Cover up before you head into the towns and when visiting religious sites, make sure you have a shawl or sleeves that cover your shoulders, and trousers or a skirt that goes past your knees.

Then, of course, there are the legendary parties at nightfall, most of them taking place at or around Anjuna. The music is psychedelic trance which, in fact, developed from Goa trance - a genre of electronic music which originated in the late 1980s on these beaches.

Though there are some regular events at the height of the party season, raves can happen as and when someone decides to throw one, so the best way to find out where to go is to ask around. A good place to start is at Curlie's, an Anjuna beach shack, or Nine Bar, a nightclub at Vagator.

Now for the bit about safety. If you imbibe any substances aimed at impairing your judgment, obviously you will be in danger of being taken advantage of, or worse. And don't take your children to raves. It is really as simple as that.

Otherwise, the only rules are to soak in the music and atmosphere, talk to people and have a great time.

If you use common sense, hopefully the most tragic thing that will befall you is discovering that it's time to go home.