Overlooking a glorious beach in Eastern Bali, the peaceful Rama Candidasa Resort and Spa is nestled into a mountainside that's dotted with villages and rice fields. The elegance of the surroundings is reflected in the easy grace of the hotel's staff, who seem in total harmony with the laid-back rhythms of their native island.
Guests are greeted by warm smiles as they step into the large lobby and check-in formalities are handled with minimum fuss.
I arrive at the resort after sunset, exhausted after a busy day and am quickly shown to my garden-view room, which is pleasantly furnished with a couple of armchairs and large wooden table, as well as a television, stereo and DVD player.
After a long shower in the well-appointed bathroom, I head back to the lobby and out into the tropical garden via a narrow wooden bridge bordered by bushes. A short walk takes me past the swimming pool and on to the beach, where I sit in a deck chair and relax in the moonlight, listening to the surf.
The three-star resort has 72 rooms: 28 superior-wing rooms, 20 garden-view superior rooms, 17 deluxe garden-view cottages, five deluxe sea view cottages and two Rama suites.
Various international dishes are served at the Garpu restaurant, which is designed in a modern style with colourful and funky furniture.
During the day, if you're bored with just lying on the beach but hitting the tourist trail, take a walk around the grounds or sign up for yoga, or a cooking or Balinese dance class.
You can also get a good workout on the tennis court, trek up into the hills and explore the rice fields and riverbanks, or go sailing, snorkelling and scuba diving.
At a glance
High Point: The Rama Candidasa Resort and Spa offers wonderful mountain panoramas. The atmosphere is especially romantic at night.
Low Point: Some parts of resort resemble a block of flats and are quite a long way from the beach.
Find it: Jalan Raya Sengkidu, Karangasem, Bali, Indonesia. It's about an hour's drive from Denpasar.
Pay for it: Rates vary from between $55 (Bt1,800) and $200 depending on the season. Special discounts for early registrations.
