The itinerary for my trip to Sichuan was packed: from Chengdu, Mount Huanglong, Jiuzhai Valley and back to Chengdu again. Over four days, I was transported from metropolitan Chengdu to the mythical landscapes of Mount Huanglong and Jiuzhaigou.
Old and new
Chengdu is a bustling city, and there are plenty of tourist activities. Conservation of old architectural structures that have been injected with modern trappings is evident in places such as Kuan Zhai Xiang Zi, Luo Dai Ancient City and Jin Li Street.
A newly opened tourist spot is Kuan Zhai Xiang Zi (which literally means wide and narrow lanes). Officially launched in May, Kuan Zhai Xiang Zi is an art and culture lifestyle enclave for both city folks and tourists.
It is made up of building clusters including siheyuan (quadrangle dwellings) of the late Qing period. Siheyuan, which means a courtyard that is surrounded by four buildings, is a historical style of residence. The construction dates back to over 100 years ago. Outside of the north, such as Beijing, Kuan Zhai Xiang Zi is the only existing locale in the south where the hutong culture is alive and well.
In olden times, architecture was made up of siheyuan that were face to face and side by side, segregated by a lane. These lanes are called hutong. In a time of rapid urbanisation, hutong is culturally and historically significant.
Another stop in Chengdu is Luodai Ancient City. Located in the eastern suburb of Chengdu, it is known to have the greatest number of Hakkas here. Driven from their homes by the Manchurians, the migrants relocated here.
Visitors can learn more at the Sichuan Hakka History Museum. Notable Hakkas include Singapore Minister Mentor Lee Kuan Yew, whose portrait hangs alongside those of China’s leaders Deng Xiaoping, Sun Yat Sen and Song Qingling.
People sipping hot teas in the numerous teahouses everywhere is a common sight, and it reflects the laidback lifestyle of the Sichuanese.
Breathtaking sights
To see the Unesco World Heritage Sites of Mount Huanglong and Jiuzhai Valley, we took a domestic flight from Chengdu to Jiuzhaigou Huanglong airport. Our first stop was Mount Huanglong, which is in northern Sichuan’s Aba Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture.
It was a chilly morning and the distant mist that engulfed the peaks made the scenery more mystical.
Named after the ancient Huanglong Temple, legend has it that a wise sage called Huanglong (yellow dragon) resided and gained immortality here. Another reason is the water traversing down the brilliant limestone formations, much like a yellow dragon descending from the mountains. Another sight to behold are the coloured ponds, such as the Wucaichi or Five-coloured Pond that radiates colours akin to precious jade and agate.
At Jiuzhai Valley, the combination of folklore and breathtaking scenery was entrancing. Legend has it that Jiuzhai Valley was created when the devil caused a beautiful goddess to drop a magic mirror, a present from her beau. The mirror shattered into 114 dazzling lakes and formed what is now known as Jiuzhai Valley. The lakes have a beautiful tint of azure and the lush greenery is breathtaking.
The best time to visit is autumn, though most locals prefer winter. Not only is it less crowded than the peak autumnal period, the combination of icy lakes and snowy peaks is a sight to behold. The tour guide summed it up best: One can truly appreciate Jiuzhai Valley only after witnessing the splendour in all four seasons.
The May 12 earthquake has resulted in a fall in visitor numbers. Last year at this time, tourists would be jostling for space to have their pictures taken against this postcard-perfect backdrop. Now, only a few tour buses were in sight.
Jiuzhai Valley is one of the natural wonders of the world. It is humbling to witness the forces of nature at work here. The mountains, greenery, lakes and cascading waterfalls are awe-inspiring for city dwellers who have been surrounded by man-made structures all their lives.
Shops galore
Back in Chengdu, we explored Chunxi Road, which is similar to Orchard Road. For a more unique Chengdu experience, you can also go to Jin Li Street for some last-minute shopping. From stuffed panda bears, Tibetan inspired clothes nd jewellery to fiery Sichuan titbits, there is lots to bring home. A Tibetan styled skirt costs about RMB120 (S$24) while snacks can cost between RMB10 and 20. However, prices are absolutely non-negotiable.
Travelling to Sichuan is like slipping in and out of a fairytale, with picturesque sights and many places to eat, drink and be merry.
The trip was sponsored by Hong Thai Travel.
This article was published in The Straits Times' Travel Treats 2008, produced by Special Projects Unit, Marketing Division, SPH
