Living in Shanghai or the 'Paris of the East', one of the things that I affectionately relate to is the quintessential Shanghainese snack, xiaolongbao (steamed soup dumplings). Originating from Nanxiang town in the northern Jiading district of Shanghai, this dumpling is so popular locally that few people remain un-acquainted with it upon their arrival in Shanghai.
The perfect xiaolongbao, a delicate parcel of meat encased in bread dough and steamed in bamboo baskets, requires attention to detail. The casing must be thin enough for the bun to be delicate, but thick enough to ensure that it does not break apart when picked up with chopsticks.
The dumplings, which are as small as water chestnuts and come with translucent thin wraps, are served with ginger-infused vinegar and are standard fare at many restaurants and roadside stalls found in Shanghai.
The technique of eating xiaolongbaos must be properly understood in order for one to truly savour this delicacy. Similarly, as a foreigner in Shanghai, truly appreciating the richness of the xiaolongbao requires more than an effortless, one-step assimilation.
First bite
In this step, one takes a small bite at the translucent skin of the dumplings. This allows one to appreciate its well-crafted thinness, tasting the dumpling at its surface and preparing one's appetite for what lies beneath. Taking a careful sip of the soup, one is momentarily overwhelmed by its richness.
When I first arrived in Shanghai, I was inundated by the sights of this dynamic city, a dynamism that emanated from people and cultures of diverse origins in a flourishing co-existence. Throngs of people were a common sight both on the streets and on the metro, leaving hardly any breathing space during the peak hour.
In the main financial districts, property developers vied for the prestige and mianzi of constructing the world's tallest building. The city's energy was also exhibited through its celebration of festivities - the Lunar New Year brought with it seven full nights of fireworks and firecrackers across the city, lighting the skyline into the early hours of dawn. The sight of roadside vendors alongside white-collar workers, slums alongside high-rise residential buildings, and bicycles alongside BMWs were also cause for wonderment, presenting me with snapshots of history and development in chary co-existence. As I embarked upon my one-year exchange programme of work and study, I quickly caught on to the novelties and fast-paced life.
Integration of flavours
After savouring the initial richness of the xiaolongbao, the next step requires a larger sampling, preferably by taking in the dumpling as a whole. During this phase, all the elements of the dumpling come together, and in their entirety, create the ultimate xiaolongbao experience.
Working in Shanghai amidst different social and legal cultures was a totally new experience. The few months of work at KhattarWong's Shanghai office swept me off my feet. Transactions, largely at an international level, required meticulous coordination among different time zones, and an expansive capacity to grasp legal principles outside of Singapore's jurisdiction. It was stimulating and challenging work - negotiating with lawyers on the other side of the world on Singapore and Chinese legal matters, and navigating the subtle nuances that exist in these legal systems.
Life outside of work was equally fascinating. Cheap shopping at Qipu Lu and weekend KTV sessions became regular fare. And being a true Singaporean, my journey in Shanghai wasn't complete without exploring the variety of food in this cosmopolitan city. It was essential to have local Shanghainese friends, who could recommend the most interesting local cuisines, including the occasional dog meat, and the best nightspots around, such as MUSE and Taikang Lu. The buzzing nightlife in Shanghai also offered constant networking opportunities that catered perfectly to corporate executives and entrepreneurs. These included casual get-togethers, business forums and expatriate shows.
Lessons learnt
Appreciating the humble xiaolongbao has become a part of life in Shanghai, as has my fondness and respect for people and their different cultures. As I near the end of my exchange and prepare to come back home, these are a few of the lessons I will be taking with me:
♦ The constant need to embrace change. Things never remain the same and embracing change with a positive attitude leads to new opportunities.
♦ Ask questions. More often than not, people are indeed open to the sharing and exchanging of ideas and opinions.
♦ The importance of a network of friends. Having a diverse group of friends was central to my understanding and adaptation to my new living environment, which differed from home in terms of its cultures, food, people and language.
Lynette Chua is an NUS final-year law student and intern at KhattarWong Shanghai
One takes a small bite at the translucent skin of the dumpling. This allows one to appreciate its well-crafted thinness, tasting the dumpling at its surface and preparing one's appetite for what lies beneath.
