Sri Lanka's capital Colombo is the kind of city that grows on you, says lawyer Naserah Tyebally. She moved there eight years ago when she married a Sri Lankan, who runs a construction business in the city.
"You can't discover its secrets immediately. You need to learn all about its hidden nooks and crannies. Once you have discovered those, it's hard not to succumb to the charms of Colombo," she says.
For a first-time visitor, the city may seem chaotic, the traffic crazy, the road blocks and security annoying but this is also a place which offers a mix of colonial architecture and colourful bazaars. The people here take time to have a conversation, to flash a genuine smile. All these make Colombo a rather charming city, she adds.
GETTING AROUND
The best way to get around is...
Either by car or tuk-tuk (auto-rickshaw). There is no public transportation to speak of. Although it is easy to walk around the centre of Colombo, it is more fun to take a tuk-tuk ride. Tuk-tuk drivers can spot tourists a mile away and you will not even need to flag one down. Always agree on a price beforehand and remember to bargain hard.
What is the weather like?
Hot and humid most of the time. Sometimes it is hot and rainy, a lot like Singapore in fact.
Which places really excite you?
I love to hang out at the Barefoot Garden Cafe (706 Galle Road, Colombo 3, tel: +94-112-580114, www.barefoot.lk). Set in a frangipani garden, this cafe serves the best fresh lime juice and calamari pasta on the island. The chocolate cake is decidedly wicked. It also has a gallery and you get to see a bit of the city's bohemian side here.
Must one know the language to get around?
Not really. Most people speak a smattering of English and some Sinhalese usually goes a long way.
City of Mihintale aka cradle of Buddhism
CULTURE
The entire city has so much to offer, where does one start?
The Independence Memorial Hall marks the spot where Sri Lankan independence from British rule was signed and sealed in 1948.
From here, head to the National Museum which was founded in 1877 to find out all you need to know about Sri Lanka's rich past (tel: +94-11-269-5366, web: www.museum. gov.lk). The exhibits here chart different aspects of the country's cultural history, including the introduction of Buddhism and Hinduism. The artefacts on display range from a 9th-century manuscript engraved on gold leaves to a collection of theatrical masks.
If you are into art, the National Art Gallery features a permanent collection by Sri Lankan artists. For works by contemporary Sri Lankan artists, visit the Lionel Wendt Memorial Art Center (18 Guildford Crescent, tel: +94-11-269-5794).
Also try and get a taste of Old Ceylon. Start at the Fort, the old commercial centre and harbour of Colombo. Then walk through the nearby Pettah bazaar district, which is also known as the Asian street market and marvel at the riot of goods - fruits, vegetables, meat, gems, gold, silver, brass and tin junk. While in Pettah, visit the Dutch museum, which has a great collection of Dutch furniture and iconic photographs, all housed in a lovely colonial building.
Your favourite cultural stop is...
Gangarama Temple. This is the most interesting Buddhist temple in Colombo with monuments from all over the world.
One cannot leave without visiting...
A gem merchant. Sri Lankan stones are stunning. Even if you don't buy anything, they are great to look at. And the merchants always have a story or two to tell about the beautiful gems they are selling. Head to Sea Street, which is known for its collection of gold and gems. If you are a serious shopper, make a stop at Jewel Qudsi (45B Galle Road). This is just past the iconic Galle Face Hotel.
SHOPPING
The best bargains are at...
Pettah. The best variety of products can be found here and the Odel shopping mall. You can buy so many things, such as the gems (ranging from citrines and amethysts to sapphires and rubies), cashew nuts (The Ceylon Cashew Corporation offers the best quality and the best prices). Of course, there is the world-renowned Sri Lankan tea too.
The textile industry is very important here. Look out for surplus stocks sold at extremely affordable prices in places such as Odel (5 Alexandra Place, t e l : +94-114-722200, web: www.odel.lk), or House of Fashion in Duplication Road. This is a street parallel to the main Galle Road. Cotton Collection (3-26 Majestic City, Galle Road, Colombo 4) has some great cotton wear.
And the best part is it only has one or two pieces of each design. So you will not end up seeing everyone else wearing the dress you have just bought.
There are several shopping malls as well, such as the Crescat Boulevard next to the Cinnamon Grand Hotel. Attractive, reasonably priced gifts are also available in the shop attached to the Gallery Cafe (2 Alfred House Road, tel: + 94-11-258-2162).
FOOD
Don't leave the place without trying...
Now, we are getting started. Come to Colombo with a hearty appetite. Try kottu rotti which is a mashed-up murtabak and string hoppers, a Sri-Lankan staple made from rice flour dough.
These are enjoyed with a variety of hot and spicy curries.
The best breakfast is at...
The Cinnamon Grand Coffee House ( tel: +94-11-587-3305). It has a good spread of Sri Lankan food such as hoppers and curries. It does a fabulous Sunday brunch as well.
If you are looking for something light, try its sandwiches with a freshly squeezed juice of your choice. But if you are not into counting calories, go for its pastries and yummy gelatos.
The who's who of Colombo can be spotted here. The big draw apart from the food is the hotel's beautifully landscaped tropical garden, which makes this the perfect spot for a relaxed Sunday out.
Photo of Ms Naserah Tyebally
The best brunch is at...
The midday meal in Colombo offers many possibilities. You can try anything from an egg hopper, which is a crisp pancake containing a fried egg, to a lamprai, a mixture of chicken, fish, egg and pickle wrapped and cooked in banana leaves. Many of the local specialities are available in the buffet at Raja Bojun (Seylan Tower, 90 Galle Road, tel: +94-11-295-2657).
The best dinner is at...
The Lagoon Restaurant (Cinnammon Grand Hotel, tel: +94-11-587-3305). This is a restaurant for seafood lovers. Fresh seafood, including the famous Sri Lankan crab, can be found here. It is like a market where you choose your own seafood and tell the chef exactly how you would like it done. They can cook it any way you like - Western, local, Thai, even Chinese. I love the squid in tamarind sauce here.
SUNDOWNERS
The best drinks are at...
The No. 18 Bar and Restaurant Gallery Cafe (2 Alfred House Road, Colombo 3, tel: +94-11-258-2162). The Gallery Cafe is a former architect's studio turned into a bar, restaurant and gallery-cum-shop. The decor is Oriental and the food is a good mix of Mediterranean and Sri Lankan. Try dishes such as seer fish and prawn curry with coconut risotto, which fuse the two cuisines. And do not miss out on its world-famous martinis.
What is the one must-try drink?
Any cocktail which is made with a base of arrack, a type of very strong distilled coconut liquor.
What's the coolest place to chill out?
A lounge called Sugar at Union Place in Colombo 2. This is the most popular bar in town and it is best known for its mojitos.
If you like celebritywatching, you can always spot Colombo's biggest stars at D's at Horton Place.
The Galle Face Terrace at The Galle Face Hotel is a beautiful place to watch the sunset with a cool drink. Another superb place to do that is in the languid and romantic Mount Lavinia Terrace.
The one place you always take your friends to is...
Casa Colombo (231 Galle Road, Bambalapitiya, Colombo 4, tel: +94-114-520130, web: www.casacolombo.com), a boutique hotel with an eclectic decor. Housed in a 200-year-old mansion that was originally built by a wealthy Indian trading family, this is located in a private lane in Colombo 4. The 12-suite boutique hotel blends old-world charm with contemporary design. It has a nice outdoor tapas restaurant serving both Asian and Western cuisine.
Is there a Clarke Quay equivalent?
Not really, although The Cinammon Grand Hotel has arguably the best collection of restaurants under one roof.
FURTHER OUT
What's there to explore?
Lots of places. I would recommend setting aside a week for it. I love Galle, which is about a three-hour drive from Colombo, depending on traffic.
It has a rich Dutch heritage, glorious seaside location and Unesco World Heritage status and hosts the Galle Literary Festival (www.galleliteraryfestival.com) in January each year. It has featured some of my favourite authors such as Vikram Seth, Kiran Desai and the late Arthur C. Clarke.
You must also visit Nuwara Eliya and Haputale, the central highlands of Sri Lanka. The beautiful mountain scenery, cool climate, colonial heritage and super teas will make you feel like you have found a home away from home.
If you are into wildlife, then a stop at the Yala National Park, a wildlife reserve, is a must too. If you are lucky, you can get to see the elusive leopard.
The Sri Lankan leopard is considered a species of its own separate from its African counterpart.
You can also go on a Buddhist trail. Start at the city of Mihintale, which is about an eight-hour drive from Colombo.
This is known as the cradle of Buddhism. Get ready to climb 1,840 steps of an ancient stairway to reach the top of the hill where King Devanampiyatissa was converted by Mahinda, the son of Emperor Ashoka, to Buddhism in the 3rd century BC.
A temple was built to mark the conversion and this is said to be the oldest temple in Sri Lanka. From Mihintale, you can travel to Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa, Sigiriya and Kandy to see how Buddhism evolved in the country.
This article was first published in The Straits Times on Nov 23, 2008.
