Seoul, the capital of South Korea, is a complicated, busy and challenging city, says art exhibition coordinator Kate Yeon Kee Lim, a 44-year-old native of the city currently living in Singapore.
Home to more than 10 million people, it is one of the world's largest cities. Since co-hosting the 2002 Fifa World Cup, Seoul's urban landscape has been transformed. It has evolved into a major economic and cultural centre with plenty to offer the discerning traveller.
The city is divided into two parts by the Han river. The north side of the river is called Gangbuk and the south side, Gangnam. Seoul is best experienced by subway, and cabs for short distances. Here are her tips on exploring the city:
Palace grandeur
Changdeokgung Palace
As the ancient seat of Korea's royalty, Seoul is home to five major palaces. You may not have time to explore all of them but try to visit Gyeongbokgung in Yulgukno. This was the first palace used during the Joseon dynasty (1392 to 1910). Its vast grounds also house the Joseon Palace Museum and the Korean Folk Museum.
Also make time for Changdeokgung, another of the palaces. This was built in 1405 and was the seat of power between 1618 and 1896. The palace is a Unesco World Heritage Site.
Picture-perfect parks
Namsan Park is located in the centre of Seoul and on a mountain filled with pine trees that can be seen from almost every corner of the city.
There is the Olympic Park as well which was built for the 1988 Seoul Olympics. A lake, a large field and a square with sculptures are very popular with visitors.
It also has six stadiums that are often used for concerts.
Another popular park is the Yeouido Park which boasts an ancient forest.
Go gallery-hopping
Head for Sagan-Dong in Gangbuk. This area is home to many top galleries such as Gallery Hyundae and Gallery Kukje which showcase the best of contemporary South Korean art.
The galleries are located opposite the Kyoung- Bok Palace. With its traditional wall and gingko tree-lined path, it is lovely to take a walk there.
Lure of the museum
The National Museum of Korea has the best collection of artefacts and relics from across Korea. They reflect the different periods and dynasties that ruled the country and how they influenced the development of art. The museum is closed on Mondays.
Architecture icons
While largely a city of functional high-rise buildings and nondescript remnants of old buildings, Seoul has its occasional landmarks.
Photo of Ms Kate Lim Yeon-Kee
Leeum, Samsung Art Museum in Hannam-Dong, is made up of three buildings, each designed by different architects. The three buildings ambitiously represent the past, present and future and often host contemporary art shows on their premises.
The Hyundai Development Company has a fascinating facade named the Tangent. It has a huge 62m aluminium ring around it which gets you to ponder on the meaning of design.
Shopping galore
"If you are comfortable with markets selling counterfeit products in Bangkok, then you are bound to feel at home in the Namdaemoon market," she says.
Namdaemoon is a chaotic 24-hour market. Once you get into the area, you are likely to be stuck inside for hours.
Dongdaemoon, another popular shopping area, is more organised. It has shopping malls such as Doota and Good Morning City. Many style-conscious Seoul residents search Dongdaemoon for clothes that imitate upmarket styles at more affordable prices.
Beverly Hills of Seoul
The upper-crust areas of Cheongdam-Dong and Sinsa- Dong are where the high-rollers eat, drink and shop. You can't miss the immaculately dressed women here. Hot spot for people-watching.
Coffee, music and dance
Hong-Dae Ap is synonymous with clubs and arty cafes. Take note though that some rock cafes do not welcome people above a certain age. You may be denied entry if you are in your 30s.
"What I like in this area is the newly opened club, The Museum. It throws parties hosted by internationally renowned DJs," says Ms Lim.
If you long for something quieter, head for a more contemplative cafe called Ether In A Coffee Cup. Artworks are displayed on the walls and writers and musicians frequent this place.
Another great area to visit is Insa-Dong. It is full of small galleries, shops, cafes and roadside kiosks selling all kinds of snacks at affordable prices. The street is teeming with tourists and locals. It is a great spot to feel the pulse of the city.
Glorious food
Famous dumpling steamboat; Mandu- Jeongoll, is served in Koong
One restaurant Ms Lim always visits is Koong. It is famous for its dumpling steamboat, Mandu- Jeongoll (left), and a soup dish called Tuck-guk which has cocoon-shaped sticky rice balls. Mandu-Jeongoll costs about $23 for two people.
"The owner will proudly tell you that they make the soup stock with beef and various vegetables, and by boiling it for 12 hours. Having tasted it many times, I can vouch for it," she says.
If you prefer a traditional Korean meal which features a full set of small side dishes, head to Keun-Kee-Wha-Gyeep in Samcheong-Dong. It serves great traditional set meals and boasts an excellent soya sauce. The prices of the set meals start at $28 and can go up to $60.
