Before starting my facial in the Maldives, a spa therapist ushered me into a toilet that opens out to the ocean. Sensing my apprehension, she said: "It's okay. Only the fish can see."
She was right: About 10m in front of my openconcept toilet was a screen on stilts, shielding me from exposure.
Such ingenious design and attention to detail characterised my experience at the Conrad Maldives Rangali Island, a high-end resort owned by the Hilton Group. The hyper-luxurious hotel is spread over two islands, Rangali and Rangalifinohlu, which are linked by a 500m walkway.
You can see why, out of Maldives' other 1,200 islands, the hotel chose to set up shop here 10 years ago. The two islands are cradled by a deep blue lagoon, fringed by a dramatic coral reef, covered with soft, bone-white sand and dotted with palm trees.
You reach the island via a 30-minute seaplane flight (US$396 or S$604 return) from Male. When you arrive, you are greeted by some 20 staff with cold towels and water. Immediately, something about the turquoise waters, salty sea air and lounging visitors affect your mood.
Board the sunset cruise and catch the gorgeous sunset with mattresses to lounge on
Life slows down a notch. There are no newspapers here, said Mr Elvis Follet, the zen-looking public relations manager for the hotel, who is originally from Mauritius.
There are 150 villas here: Beach Villas which open out to the beach, Water Villas which are set on stilts above the water, and Spa Retreat Villas which are also over water and have their own spa rooms.
They cost US$850(S$1293) to US$8,000 a night. About 70% of the guests are Europeans, mainly from Britain, Germany and France. The rest are Japanese and South Koreans. It is a popular honeymoon destination.
Mr Follet added that people such as pop star Paul McCartney and famous French and German soccer players have holidayed here. He put me up in a 300 sq m Deluxe Water Villa. It is called "deluxe" for good reason.
You open the door and enter a courtyard with a bubbling fountain. To your right is a lushly verdant path that leads to an outdoor shower. Further out is a separate thatched pavilion housing a classy outdoor bath.
In the air-conditioned living area, a king-sized bed with endless cushions beckons. I resisted its call and ran into the garden, where there are two deck chairs and a plunge pool.
Beyond the pool, a little trail led to a small gate, which opened to the sharp, salty tang of the sea. This was the beach.
There is a strange logic to this place. It is laidback and carelessly au naturel: For example, it was very liberating to shower under the stars and walk naked to the bath. But these are the results of meticulous planning, strategically placed foliage or walls and a team of dedicated staff.
This is where the well-heeled come to feel rejuvenated and at one with nature, and to enjoy what the publicity material calls "barefoot luxury". It is Robinson Crusoe with a butler. Not that I had any problems with that.
The hotel was 90% full but I hardly saw any other visitors unless I headed out to the common areas such as the spas.
You could lie in a hammock, suntan, snorkel, go on a fishing trip or take a sunset cruise to the deep sea to catch the dying rays.
Deluxe Water Villa
There are seven restaurants at the resort, including the Ithaa Undersea Restaurant. And, of course, there are more spa treatments than you have skin for. The highlight is the Over-water Spa. It recently launched the Dorissima colour rituals, with treatments to correspond to the body's chakra systems.
There are seven packages, each with a different purpose but the aim is "physical, emotional and spiritual enlightenment".
Also rather New Age-y is the Introduction to Meditation course by Katy Appleton, a celebrity yoga teacher known for having coached ex-Spice Girl Geri Halliwell and the Duchess Of York. She visits twice a year to lead classes at the Yoga Retreat, an open-air platform overlooking the sea.
Alternatively, you can attend a healing workshop with Dorinda Rose Berry, a woman who claims to see angels and Jesus. I had no idea what to expect, but the cynic in me recoiled slightly at having to repeat phrases after her, such as "I'd run through more fields and gaze at more stars" and "I'd do more hugging and less tugging".
That very evening, after an indulgent dinner, I strolled back to my villa via the beach. I looked up at the sky and a galaxy of stars spun above. It was silent but for the waves.
With my feet sinking in the sand, my every pore oozed tranquillity. I started to think that maybe Berry was right.
And if I had a silly grin on my face, it was okay. Only the fish could see.
Booking and getting there
To book: Get the best rates for Angsana Velavaru online at www.angsana.com. The resort's first anniversary promotion till Feb 28 next year offers one free night for every two paid nights.
Promotion rates start from US$160 (S$243) per person for a beachfront villa (inclusive of board), but change according to season and availability. For Conrad Maldives, visit
www.conradmaldives.com for information. To book, call +960-668-0619 or e-mail maldivesinfo@conradhotels.com
Getting there: SIA flies to Male nightly at 8.45pm. Trans Maldivian seaplanes fly to Velavaru daily from 9am to 5pm. Maldivian Air Taxi seaplanes fly to Rangali Island daily before sunset. The number of flights depends on demand.
Top picture: Built 5m below sea level, the Ithaa Undersea Restaurant lets you dine among colourful fish.
This article was first published in The Straits Times on Dec 2, 2008.
