[top photo: Vendors and patrons at the Gang Baru Market in Semarang, Indonesia.]
SEMARANG SURPRISES
By Jovanda Biston
Semarang, my hometown, is not a familiar place to most people outside of Indonesia.
The provincial capital of Central Java, it is not chic and exotic like Bali and it does not have the princely patina of Yogyakarta.
What this unassuming city on the north coast of Java has is a rich history, laid-back charms and some of the best food in the country.
The most famous local snack is lumpia, a spring roll filled with fresh bamboo shoots, crabmeat, egg and shrimp.
There are many lumpia stalls in the city but one of the oldest and most popular is Lumpia Gang Lombok. The humble eatery's menu features only lumpia, which comes plain or deep-fried. The hefty rolls (each 11,000 rupiah or S$1.50) are served with pickled cucumbers, a dollop of thick garlicky sauce and fiery whole chillies.
This lumpia specialist is located around the corner from the 18th-century Tay Kak Sie temple in the historic Chinese district known as Pecinan.
Today, the district is a bustling business district where you will find the Gang Baru market. Among the many vendors with their baskets of fresh vegetables, buckets of fish and hooks of offal and meat, there is a good selection of breakfast fare.
Nasi Ayam dish from Semarang, Indonesia.
I usually find myself stopping at the vendor selling nasi ayam (3,500 rupiah), which means "chicken rice" but it is nothing like the Singaporean dish of the same name. The Semarang version is rice topped with shredded chicken meat, spicy chayote squash, tofu, hard-boiled egg and doused in lip-smacking coconut gravy. The woman at Gang Baru serves her nasi ayam the traditional way in a banana leaf cone.
Even after wolfing down the nasi ayam, I am still tempted by other foods such as piping-hot serabi (a sweet and fluffy crepe-like snack), bakso (beef meatballs in clear broth) and a dizzying assortment of kueh-kueh.
When I have a craving for Semarang's most celebrated sweet treat, a coconut cake known as wingko babad (2,300 rupiah), I go to the Kereta Api bakery, which can barely meet the huge demand for its speciality.
The small bakery is located in Kota Lama (Old Town), the city's administrative centre during the Dutch colonial era, where you will find many 19th-century and Art Deco architectural gems. While many of these buildings are in a state of neglect, the area still makes for an atmospheric stroll.
Simpang Lima, the modern centre of Semarang, is not far from Kota Lama but it feels like a different world. It has large malls, movie theatres and smart hotels facing an always-busy roundabout.
Near the roundabout, roadside food shacks do a roaring business in the evenings selling nasi goreng ruwet (which literally means "messy fried rice" but it is actually fried rice mixed with noodles), nasi gandul (beef offal rice), charcoal-grilled chocolate and banana sandwiches, spicy grilled corn on the cob and my favourite rice dish, nasi gudeg.
Gudeg resembles meat in texture and appearance but it is made from shredded young jackfruit that is cooked with spices until it is pink and velvety. The gudeg is drizzled with thick savoury coconut cream and served with rice and other accompaniments. Those new to nasi gudeg (9,000 rupiah) usually eye it with apprehension, but after sampling it, they will scrape their plates clean.
After overindulging in the delectable local food, you may need to drink jamu for a quick health boost. These are herbal concoctions based on traditional Indonesian medicine. Several of Indonesia's largest jamu manufacturers such as Sido Muncul and Nyonya Meneer are based in Semarang. Visitors who want to learn more about jamu can join the free guided tours of the jamu factories.
Buy the concoctions from itinerant jamu women - a common sight in Semarang's residential neighbourhoods - or pop into one of the city's many jamu bars for a refreshing pick-me-up, beauty remedy or a blend to stave off a cold.
After a jolt of jamu, you should feel re-energised enough to sample more of Semarang's scrumptious surprises.
Getting there
Garuda Indonesia flies direct to Semarang daily from Singapore. A return ticket costs anywhere between $280 and $455.
Where to stay: A grand colonial building on a hill, Hotel Candi Baru has lots of character, even if its rooms have seen better days a long time ago. Air-conditioned standard rooms start from 150,000 rupiah. Call (62) 24-831-5272.
Hotel Ciputra is a modern high-rise property conveniently located in Simpang Lima, adjacent to a big shopping mall. Air-conditioned standard rooms start from 750,000 rupiah. Call 62-24-8449888.
Jovanda Biston is a freelance writer.
4 things to do
1 Do visit Toko Oen, the city's oldest restaurant, for Dutch cookies and tea. Not much has changed in this restaurant since it first opened for business in 1936.
2 Do ask your becak driver to lower the canopy for an unobstructed view of your surroundings during the pedicab ride. A 15-minute ride costs about 20,000 rupiah unless there is more than one passenger.
3 Do buy tuberoses, one of the world's most expensive perfume ingredients, but in Semarang, you can buy 10 stalks for 15,000 rupiah.
4 Do check out Semawis, the weekend night market in Pecinan.
2 don'ts 1 Don't spit out the bones of the bandeng (milkfish). Semarang is well known for its delicious milkfish that is cooked until the bones are soft.
2 Don't forget to pay for the snacks you consume at a warung (food shack). These are placed on the tables for diners to nibble on while waiting for their order or to go with their meal.
By Cheryl Tan
LAKE CHANGES COLOUR
Dieng Plateau, Indonesia
A view of Dieng Plateau, a lofty highland plain in Central Java, Indonesia which boasts of volcanic craters, bubbling mud pools and mineral lakes.
Sitting about 2,000m above sea level, the lofty highland plain in Central Java is home to sloping mountainous landscapes with pockets of steaming volcanic craters, bubbling mud pools and mineral lakes.
And do not miss the Telaga Warna (Colour Lake), says Indonesian Embassy third secretary Hanung Nugraha. The sulphurous lake is reputed to have multiple colours which change to complement its surroundings.
Another lake here, Telaga Pengilon or Mirror Lake, is its complete opposite because of its crystal-clear surface.
Architecture buffs will also love Dieng for its many examples of Central Javanese architecture and design of temples from the 8th and 9th century.
If you prefer more comfortable accommodations, Mr Nugraha, 33, recommends that you stay in the country town of Wonosobo, where you can take day tours to Dieng. But there are budget hotels in the Dieng village if you do not want to commute.
From Wonosobo to Dieng, it takes about two hours by car. A word of warning, however: The roads can be pretty winding, so barf bags are advised for those prone to motion sickness.
Where to stay: Hotel Gunung Mas is one of the better hotels in the Dieng village. Rooms with hot water start from 100,000 rupiah (S$14).
Gallery Hotel Kresna in Wonosobo has modern amenities and air-conditioned rooms with attached bathrooms. Rates start from 385,000 rupiah.
Getting there: Take a 21/2-hour Singapore Airlines flight to Denpasar ($560), transfer on Garuda (2.04 million rupiah) to Yogyakarta. Next, take an hour-long bus ride (12,000 rupiah) to Magelang, followed by another two buses (12,000 rupiah) to Wonosobo and Dieng (7,000 rupiah).
