A GOOD museum should leave the visitor more knowledgeable, more inspired and more motivated to learn about its exhibits, than when she came in.

That was exactly how I felt after visiting the Tretyakov Gallery in Moscow, home to the largest collection of Russian art in the world.

Visiting the gallery is akin to taking a lesson on Russian history through art. It takes its name from Pavel Mikhailovich Tretyakov (1832-1898), a very successful textile merchant who loved art and set himself the ambitious goal of forming a collection that could evolve into a repository of national art.

In 1856, when the Tretyakov Gallery was officially handed over to the Moscow municipal duma or council, it already comprised a collection of 1,287 paintings, 518 drawings and nine sculptures by Russian artists of the 18th and 19th centuries, as well as 75 paintings, eight drawings and five statuettes by contemporary Western European artists. Today, the gallery boasts over 100,000 works of art which are categorised according to artistic medium and historical period - icons, sculpture, 18th- and 19th-century paintings, and so on.

For an entrance fee of 240 roubles (about S$13), you get to appreciate the works of Ivan Shishkin (1832-1898), whose realistic painting of three bears in a pine forest at dawn, is now reprinted on chocolate wrappers; and Vasily Tropinin (1776-1857), who specialised in pieces depicting ordinary Russians and their trades.

My personal favourite has to be Vasily Surikov's (1848-1916) works. His depiction of events that took placeat prominent Moscow landmarks like Red Square, added to my understanding of the country's turbulent history.

There are at least 80 other museums to explore in Moscow. Listed below are those that are truly wortha visit:

• Armory Museum: An extensive collection of tsarist costumes and carriages, including those that belonged to Catherine the Great. An unknown German princess until she married Peter III, she rose to become one of Europe's most powerful rulers.

  An antithesis of her husband, who had a weak intellect and a drinking problem, the highly intelligent and ambitious Catherine usurped his throne in 1762, and was crowned Empress of all Russia. She ruled for over 30 years. Look out also for the section that houses ambassadorial gifts, including those from Poland, England and Sweden.

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• State Museum of Contemporary History of Russia: The largest establishment in the world devoted to modern history, this museum opened in March 1917, shortly after the Russian Revolution brought an end to the monarchy. It houses original documents, rare photographs, and the life and works of prominent statesmen and political figures.

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• State Historical Museum: This charts the development of Russian civilisation through archaelogical exhibitions.

ENGAGING THE SERVICES OF A GUIDE

You have booked a ticket to Moscow, and have lined up all the historic places you want to visit. Your next question is, do I need a guide?

The answer is, you do. While it is fine to do a free-and-easy tour of the city, engaging the services of a guide can be particularly useful when visiting museums that do not provide audio guides or English translations of art information.

Leading tour operator Capital Tours (www.capital-tour.ru) is a reliable and reputable agency, conveniently located at Hotel Cosmos Business Centre. Depending on your group size and length of stay in Moscow, the helpful staff can even customise an itinerary for you. Ask for Ms Irina Tayakina, whom I found extremely reliable and knowledgeable.

From March 1, Singapore Airlines will fly three times weekly to Moscow. Visit singaporeair.com for more information

Photos: Leong Phei Phei