MENTION that you are heading to Beirut for a holiday and chances are, people will ask: Why? Is it safe?

This is understandable given Lebanon's history of a 15-year civil war. That ended in 1992 and it has since done an admirable job of rebuilding itself.

In fact, now is a good time to visit before the hordes of tourists descend.

Lebanon is a generally safe place to travel around, even when going out alone late at night, as the crime rate is low.

Just don't be alarmed by the sight of soldiers with machine guns on the streets.

In my one week in Lebanon, I was captivated by the stark contrasts and rich history, by the natural beauty from the snow-capped Mount Lebanon to the azure Mediterranean coast, and the freshly baked breads.

The people were friendly and eager to offer a helping hand. They often started their conversation with a polite apology for their English, which in reality was quite good.

Plan on staying at least a week so there's time to explore Beirut and devote a few days for day tours to the older historical cities such as Byblos, Tripoli and Baalbeck as well as Bekka Valley, and Sidon and Tyre in the south.

Dusty and packed with traffic jams and drivers who love to sound the horn, Beirut is not a pretty city but it is fascinating.

Signs of the civil war still abound with many buildings bearing scars, including bullet holes.

But in the newly-restored downtown, uber chic interior designs adorn shops like the Patchi chocolate store as well as the cool customer lounge on the fourth floor of the Aishti department store.

Start your visit by exploring a couple of sights in Beirut and see the contrast of architecture at St George Cathedral, mosques and many posh European-style cafes and high-end shops.

Next, walk along the coastal road to visit Pigeon Rocks that is best viewed while sipping fresh strawberry juice from one of the cliffside cafes.

Do pop into the Ahmad Aouni Hallab & Sons patisserie for some of the best Lebanese pastries in Beirut.

For shoppers, the choices are not as wide as those of fashion capitals but it's worth checking out Hamra Street, Verdun Street (best selection of latest fashions), the new downtown, and the Ashrafieh district for its shops and ABC Mall.

For nightlife, there is a mind-boggling range. Within a mere 20.3sq km, Beirut has some 300 licensed nightclubs, pubs and restaurants. There is no cover charge.

Hip places to check out include the lush De Prague in Hamra, chillout bars in Gemmayze and Pacifico and dance clubs like Crystal and Element in Monot Street.

For something a little different, visit B018, a former military bunker that has been featured in Time magazine as an edgy dance club with a sky roof.

Dressing up for a club night is de rigueur. And go early if you want to sit by the bar as it is often packed, making it impossible to get a drink.

Taxis ply the streets in abundance and it's a choice of Service (shared pirate-cab style which makes it cheaper) or Taxi (costs more to have it all to yourself).

The rates are affordable as Beirut city is small and it costs between US$1.50 (S$2.40) and US$6 to zip about town per trip. But always negotiate your fare before getting in to avoid paying more.

Foodies are in for a treat, as a mezze or sandwich meal costs US$5 or less while dinner in a good restaurant will set you back between US$12 and US$20.

Day tours can be booked with any major tour agency. I went with Nakhal, which charged US$50 for a full-day tour to the ancient cities of Byblos and Tripoli.

Byblos is a must-see as it is one of the world's oldest inhabited towns with a history dating back to at least 7,000 BC.

Archaeological works are still in progress at the many sites that have unearthed layers of Lebanon's colourful history, some dating back to the Neolithic age.

Go to the top of the castle for a breathtaking sea view and see Byblos spread out on the gentle slope of the mountain and the flickering lights of Beirut in the horizon.

Tripoli in the north is rich in Islamic architecture and ancient mosques. The Old City there dates from the 14th and 15th centuries and has a maze of narrow alleys and open-air markets.

These markets are packed with vendors selling everything from fresh vegetables to textiles and gold.

While walking around, sample local fare - drink aromatic Lebanese coffee from the traditional coffee seller who sells the beverage out of two silver conical pots (an espresso-size cup costs about US$0.15) and enjoy toasted sesame bread with melted cheese and red salty thyme-like herbs.

Hidden in one of the markets is Tripoli's only functioning bathhouse called Hammam al-Abd that is over 300 years old. A tiny towel-lined alleyway leads to the Turkish-style bathhouse with a domed roof.

Venture out later to the soap-maker section where traditional handmade natural soaps of every aroma can be found.

An interesting buy is the traditional Bride's Soap - which has an intoxicating smell of honey, olive oil and exotic scents.

For nature lovers, a trip to Jeita Grotto is recommended to experience the natural wonder of stalactite and stalagmite-filled caverns, as is a drive to the Cedars Valley to view the ancient cedar trees, and the Chouf Mountains to see the Beiteddine Palace, a fine example of 19th century Lebanese architecture.

A week certainly flies by very fast for the visitor, and I know I will be back.

The writer runs a business communications consultancy.

Must-dos in Lebanon

1. Make sure you try as many of the mezzes (appetisers) as possible. Date and nut lovers can buy loads of fresh delicious munchies at very cheap prices.

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3. You can live on bread alone, especially the heavenly fresh-from-fire flat breads with the hummus dips. Ask for toom - the light but savoury whipped garlic dip that's usually eaten with meats.

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5. Visit the older cities, especially Byblos, which has enchanted many ancient civilisations, from the Phoenicians and Egyptians to the Romans and Ottoman Turks.

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7. Visit the souqs or old markets in any of the old cities like Tripoli and experience the old-world charm. Do pop by the traditional soap makers in Tripoli and buy unusual handmade soaps such as the Bride's Soap which is rich in honey and olive oil and smells exotically fragrant.

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9. Chill out and enjoy the nightlife that Beirut is known for. Monot Street is happening and so is the new downtown, among other locales.

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11. Walk along the coastal roads, have a fresh strawberry juice at one of the cliffside cafes facing Pigeon Rocks and soak in the beauty of the azure sea.

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13. Go street-shopping in Hamra and the malls of Beirut. Look out for cool fashion labels that you cannot find in Singapore, such as Promod from France and Freesoul from Italy.

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15. Buy freshly baked Lebanese pastries a day before you leave. They are affordable, delicious and make great gifts. You can find them in supermarkets or pastry shops such as Ahmad Aouni Hallab & Sons.