OMAN has such a long, rich history that sometimes, it is difficult to separate fact from fiction.

For starters, the country is dazzling - a Lawrence of Arabia moment comes to life, however tired that cliche may be. The landscape shifts, almost without warning, from muscular mountain ridges dotted with immaculately restored forts and lush, palm-fringed oases to beautiful coastlines that need just a few white Arabian stallions galloping on the surf to complete the fantasy.

And from Oman came frankincense, the most fabled Arabian treasure. In fact, ancient Oman built its enduring fame and wealth on this most rare of perfumes, and even today, there are lingering whiffs of it in certain Omani quarters such as the Muttrah souk.

Much of the country lacks the metropolitan gloss that marks some of the other Gulf states such as Dubai and Saudi Arabia. There is, instead, a patina of classic Arabian architecture and a dash of Portuguese here and there, especially in the design of the coastal forts - a legacy of 16th-century Lisbon's far-reaching trade and military routes.

The capital Muscat anchors the ancient port area, framed by rocky mountains and a trio of sea-facing forts. Most first-time visitors to Oman spend the day wandering around the port, soaking up the sea-washed air and ogling at the Sultan's principal palace.

A few kilometres away, the Muttrah Corniche (above) is a lively mix of shops and eateries, while the Ruwi quarter houses Muscat's commercial hub, including moneychangers and an atmospheric clutch of souks.

Given Oman's colourful history, there is no lack of quality museums. In Muscat, many museums are housed in buildings whose histories are as fascinating as the exhibits they hold.

At the top of the list are the Omani-French Museum (built to commemorate French President Mitterand's 1992 state visit); National History Museum (featuring Oman's splendid palette of flora and fauna, including a sperm whale skeleton); and the National Museum (famed for its collection of Arabian jewellery, weaponry and costumes).

A not-to-be-missed Omani experience is an early-morning trip west of Muscat to Seeb's fish market. Here, against a sheltering sky looming over the Arabian Gulf, generations of fishermen - sunburnt beneath their skullcaps, chequered sarongs peeking from beneath rolled up dishdashas - have pulled up their wooden boats and unloaded their glittering haul from the sea.

The fresh fish - silvery sardines, barracuda and yellow-fin tuna among them, are laid out on tarpaulins spread on the sand and ready for the morning crowd. Very often, locals and tourists alike, on their way to the mountains for the day, will pick up a few fresh fish for barbecuing at their destination - yet another example of a life well-lived, Omani-style.

Further, Nizwa is fast becoming one of Oman's most famous tourist spots with a beautifully preserved 17th century fort - complete with crenellated battlements - towering over the bustling souk.

Meanwhile, Oman's southern reaches are a must-visit. Thanks to the Indian summer monsoon that swings through every year from June to September, lush Salalah - the capital of Dhofar province - blooms in a riot of tropical green. If nothing else, save your rials for this segment of your trip.

At the Al Husn souk, pick up genuine frankincense, make-up pots for storing kohl and silver khanjars, the distinctive silver Omani daggers that are still worn on ceremonial occasions.

In the end, there hardly seems to be enough hours in the day to cram in everything that is available to see and do in Oman. Just the idea of the Rub al-Khaili - the world's largest sand desert - takes some getting used to. But the point is that Oman's raw, natural beauty has survived more or less intact for millennia now, and if you run out of time on your first trip, well, there is always another trip on the gathering horizon.

Jason Hahn is a freelance writer.

Photo: Muttrah Corniche, iStockphoto