When you first land in Abu Dhabi, it is the tree-lined boulevards, water fountains and finely manicured roundabouts that make an impact.
Is this really a desert? On a winter night, it looks like a city that has it all, yet it is oddly quiet, even in the daytime.
Abu Dhabi is the capital of the cluster of seven states that form the United Arab Emirates. But it has been in the shadow of Dubai, its more cosmopolitan, hipper and busier counterpart, which is the UAE's top travel spot with about five million visitors a year.
Dress like the Bedouins and go on a desert safari
That could change. Abu Dhabi has embarked on a tourism offensive. Its all-encompassing plan involves developing a 270ha cultural district on Saadiyat Island, where some of the world's best-known architects such as Frank Gehry, Jean Nouvel, Zaha Hadid and Tadao Ando are building the Guggenheim Abu Dhabi, a branch of the Louvre, a maritime museum and a performing arts centre.
The US$30-billion (S$43-billion) project includes 29 hotels, three marinas, two golf courses and housing for 150,000 people.
Next year, the Formula One season will stretch to 19 races, with the last race on Abu Dhabi's Yas Island on Nov 15. The city, which has a stunning coastline, is aggressively promoting its existing attractions, all of which can be covered in four days, if you plan smart.
Day 1: Discover Abu Dhabi
Start by visiting the city's newest attraction - the magnificent Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, one of the largest mosques in the world. It can accommodate 40,000 people.
The marble used in its construction was imported from more than 30 countries. It is home to the world's largest carpet designed by Iranian artist Ali Khaliqi and handmade by 200 workers who spent close to a year finishing it. Measuring 5,000 sq m, it used up 35 tonnes of wool and cotton. About 6,000 worshippers can stand on it at the same time.
If you are looking for history, there is the Heritage Village, though I found it a little too touristy. The fish and vegetable markets have a stronger local flavour.
Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque holds the world's largest carpet
In the evening, make sure you catch the sunset at the city's Corniche, a beach area. Stroll on the sand with the water caressing your feet as you watch the sun slowly melt into the horizon.
At night, visit the Emirates Palace, that is if you are not already splashing cash to stay at this extravagant hotel, which cost US$3 billion to build.
It looks like a building straight out of a fairy tale. A giant cupola atop one of the domes changes shades, flashing brilliant colours into the night sky.
The marble-and-granite behemoth stretches for more than 1km. It contains 6,000 sq m of gold leaf, 7,000 doors, 12,000 signs and 1,002 chandeliers made with Swarovski crystals.
Day 2: Visit Al Ain
An hour-and-a-half's drive east of Abu Dhabi is the city of Al Ain, the birthplace of the late Sheikh Zayed Bin Sultan Al Nahyan, the ruler and president of the UAE from 1971 to 2004.
His childhood home has been converted into a museum and the only thing modern about it is the air-conditioning. Every room has been preserved, so visitors can see how simply the sheikh lived as a child.
Go camel riding or dune bashing on a desert safari
The city has several forts, a livestock market and, on the outskirts near the border with Oman, its own camel souk (market in Arabic) selling white camels from Sudan, black ones from Pakistan and local brown ones.
You can take a drive up the barren mountain of Jebel Hafeet, on what some say is the greatest driving road in the world. Climbing nearly 1.2km, it has 60 corners and a surface so smooth, it could well be a race track.
Day 3: The desert safari
Be warned: Eat light. Better still, don't eat at all. The desert safari experience is not for the faint-hearted. I hate to admit it, but I am the kind who has not even braved a roller-coaster ride.
Yet I end up next to the driver in a 4x4. He stops to adjust the air pressure of his tyres, then asks if anyone needs a toilet break before instructing all to belt up - tight.
And away we go on a dune-bashing action adventure. For the next 1½ hours, we plunge up and down several dunes - a hair-raising, shrieking ride. Try it, at least once in your life.
Want more fun? Go sand skiing. Clamber up a sand dune in ski boots, point a single ski down and hope for the best. If your luck is better than mine, something dramatic will happen.
End your safari with a camel ride before settling down to dine under the stars. Just make sure your driver has eaten as much as you do, to ensure a smooth ride back to your hotel room.
Day 4: Shop and eat
A cup of Arabic coffee served with dates is the best way to start and end a meal
Save your last day to indulge in food and shopping. As you sit down to enjoy your last cup of Arabic coffee here, you will relish the escapism Abu Dhabi has to offer.
Save your last night for a walk along the Corniche. The quiet it offers is magical - it's almost enough to tempt you to pen a tale or dream a little dream about the day you witnessed the perfect sunset.
Top picture: Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque has chandeliers painted in copper and gold. It can accommodate 40, 000 worshippers.
deepikas@sph.com.sg
The writer's visit was sponsored by Etihad Airways and the Abu Dhabi Tourism Authority
5 things to do
1 Do remember that the Abu Dhabi weekend falls on Friday and
Saturday. Many shops and attractions are either closed on Fridays or open only at certain hours.
2 Do drive out. The UAE has wonderful landscapes and the best way to see them is in a four-wheel drive.
Get a copy of the best-selling UAE Off-Road Explorer, which has 18 exciting off-road routes through the desert and mountains.
3 Do dress modestly. While bikinis and shorts are acceptable on the beach or by the pool, avoid wearing excessively revealing clothing. During the winter months, you need a shawl or a light sweater to keep warm.
4 Do your visa checks. All visitors to Abu Dhabi, except citizens of the Gulf Cooperation Council states, need a visa.
Singaporeans get a visa on arrival, but some other nationalities need to apply in advance. The hotel can arrange for an emergency visa if you have left things till the last minute. This costs AED 300 (S$118).
5 Do tip. In restaurants, make it 10 per cent of your total bill. If you are tipping a taxi driver, round up to AED 5 or AED 10.
2 don'ts
1 Don't try carrying a khanjar (the traditional dagger) in your hand luggage, if you buy one as a souvenir. Even if the khanjar is framed, you still have to check it in.
2 Don't forget to carry bottled water with you when you head out on your road trips outside Abu Dhabi.
Where to shop and dine
Where to shop
Apart from the carpet and the fish and vegetable souk (a market in an Arab city), there are no real souks in Abu Dhabi. Shopping is best done in air-conditioned malls.
Abu Dhabi Mall
Tourist Club Area
Whether you are looking for a postcard or a Persian carpet, this mall is the place for shopaholics. It has more than 200 stores.
Tel: +971-2-645-4858
Marina Mall
Breakwater
It houses several designer boutiques such as Gucci, Versace, Louis Vuitton and Yves Saint-Laurent.
The mall will soon have a snow ski slope, an ice rink and a viewing tower, making it more than just another shopping destination.
Tel: +971-2-681-8300
Madinat Zayed Gold Centre
This gold centre is home to the largest jewellery shops in the Gulf region and glitters with the finest gold, diamonds and pearls.
Tel: +971-2-631-8555
Where to eat
Sofra, Shangri-La Qaryat Al Beri
I have had hotel buffet meals over the years, but nothing comes close to Sofra's all-day dining. The presentation, range and quality of food are simply exceptional. Look out for local favourites such as humus with pita or go for the strawberry yogurt made from delectably fresh strawberries.
Tel: +971-2-509-8888
Al Dhafra
Al Meena Dhow Harbour
A traditional Arab sailing vessel known as a dhow takes you around the scenic Abu Dhabi Corniche, an elegant beach stretch, and you can take your pick of fresh seafood from the Persian Gulf.
Tel: +971-2-673-2266
Lebanese Flower
Khaladiya Street
Abu Dhabi's most popular Lebanese restaurant serves mixed grill meats and garlicky chicken shwarmas.
Tel: +971-2-665-8700
Marakesh At The Millennium
Serves traditional Moroccan food. Do not miss the delectable tajines (slow-cooked stews) and couscous.
Tel: +971-2-626-2700
Bice
Hilton, Abu Dhabi
It is Italian but with local seafood. Go for the hand-made pastas and do not miss the spaghetti served with lobster bolognaise.
Tel: +971-2-681-1900
Travel Tips
HOW TO GET THERE
Etihad Airways, Abu Dhabi's international carrier, offers thrice-weekly direct flights from Singapore from $1,414. Tel: 6854-9788, or visit www.etihadairways. com
WHERE TO STAY
Shangri-La Qaryat Al Beri
Opened last year, the five-star hotel sits on a relatively undeveloped beach area. All 214 rooms and suites come with balconies or terrace areas offering great sea views of the Persian Gulf. Room rates start from $453. Tel: +971-2-509-8888, www.shangri-la.com/en/property/ abudhabi/shangrila
Emirates Palace
Filled with massive crystal chandeliers, grand carpets and a cupola that changes colour at night, the Emirates Palace is grandiose and over the top. Room rates start from $788. Tel: +971-2-690-9000, www.emiratespalace.com
Hilton Abu Dhabi
Some of the city's best restaurants and bars are located at the Hilton, a beach resort and spa.Room rates start from $295. Tel: +971-2-681-1900, www1.hilton.com
WHEN TO VISIT
It is coolest from late October to early April, when the temperature dips to 10 deg C at night and 25 deg C during the day. The hottest months are July, August and September, when it could get as hot as 48 deg C.
This article was first published in The Straits Times on Dec 30, 2008.
