MANY people either haven't heard of Luang Prabang, or think that it is in Thailand. Luang Prabang is actually in Laos.

The former royal capital of Laos and a World Heritage site since 1995, this tiny, ancient town of 16,000 people has many well-preserved Buddhist temples and stupas, a royal palace which is now a museum, numerous French colonial buildings and hundreds of old shophouses of eclectic architectural styles.

Well endowed with scenic mountain ranges and located at the junction of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers, Luang Prabang is a relatively unknown gem. Before 1995, few outsiders came here, but it now attracts a steady stream of tourists, mainly from the West. Most of its famous sights and monuments are conveniently concentrated within the old town, and these are best savoured leisurely, on foot or by bicycle. It takes only 30 minutes to walk from one end of the town to the other.

Right smack in the centre is Mount Phou Si (Holy Hill), which has 330 winding steps leading to its 105m summit. It is topped by a Buddhist stupa visible from most parts of town. From here, you are rewarded with a breathtaking view of the town, the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers, and the surrounding countryside.

It is a favourite place to watch the beautiful Luang Prabang sunset.But be prepared to jostle with other like-minded visitors for a good spot.

Adjacent to Mount Phou Si is the Royal Palace Museum. Completed in 1909 in French and Laotian architectural styles, it houses a splendid royal art collection, the ornate throne, state rooms and royal living quarters.

My wife and I were most impressed by the brilliantly carved mosaic murals on the walls and ceilings. They depict traditional life in Laos,and were the work of the best Laotian craftsmen of the early 20thcentury.

We also visited several of the town's leading temples. Wat XiengThong (1560) is the most majestic - decorated with exquisitely carved glass mosaics and gold-stencilled wood columns.

Wat Mai (18th century) has a unique five-tiered roof and is renowned for bas-relief works with religious themes. Formerly an exclusive royal temple, it is now open to all devotees, and is the most popular temple in Luang Prabang.

Wat Wisunalat has had a chequered history. Its original 16th-century main chapel was destroyed in during battle but was rebuilt in 1898. It now houses a large collection of 16th- and 17th-century images of Buddha. A melon-shaped stupa still stands on its grounds as a reminder of its turbulent past.

One highlight was our two-hour boat trip down the Mekong to view the Pak Ou Buddha caves, 25km from town. This mighty river,with its muddy water, is the lifeline of Laos and is the 12th-longest in the world.

Fortunately, we visited these caves in perfect weather; otherwise the path leading to them would have been slippery and dangerous. Inside the caves are numerous wooden Buddha images of different periods, left for safekeeping by the Laotian kings and devotees in times of strife.

On our last day, we got up at 5am to witness the daily alms-giving by devotees to monks from various temples. We followed one group of orange-robed monks in semi-darkness to watch devotees putting a handful of rice from a container into each monk's begging bowl as they passed by.

Tradition dictates that female devotees must perform this ritual kneeling, as a gesture of respect; they must not tower over the monks - many of whom are teenage novices. The alms-giving is usually completed by 6am, and the monks return to their respective temples to eat their only meal of the day. Food is forbidden after noon until the next day.

Most of the 160 French colonial buildings and houses have been converted into boutique hotels,guesthouses, restaurants, government offices or diplomatic residences. One of these elegant houses isnow the provincial governor's residence.

Buddhism is deeply rooted in Laos, and influences the way of life. The people are warm, gentle and hospitable, and enjoy a laid back lifestyle. Another plus factor is the very low crime rate.

The best time to go to Luang Prabang is between November and February, when it is cooler. Bangkok Airways has a daily direct flight from Bangkok.

A trip there should be among the jaded Singaporetraveller?s new year resolutions.

5 THINGS TO DO

1. Do invest in a good guide book so that you can cover the major sights by yourself. Few Singapore tour operators offer package tours to Luang Prabang, but it is easy to do a 'free and easy'.

There are hotels to suit all pockets, and tuk-tuks (like trishaws) are everywhere for those who don't fancy walking or cycling.

2. Do take a boat trip to the Pak Ou Buddha caves and Whisky Village. For nature lovers, Kuang Si waterfall, 32km from town, is perfect for a picnic. Local travel operators can arrange these trips.

3. Do hop on a bicycle to access tranquil villages and observe the natives' lifestyle. Or you can take a short boat trip across the Mekong and visit a number of the less frequented, but significant, old temples like Wat Long Khun and Wat Tham Xieng Maen.

4. Do enjoy the food. Surprisingly, tiny Luang Prabang boasts many excellent restaurants, especially for Laotian,Thai and French cuisines, at reasonable costs. Some serve a combination of these foods. These restaurants are well known and easy to find.

At night, there are wine bars, pubs, karaoke lounges and jazz clubs that stay open till late.

5. Do shop at the nightly open-air market. With numerous vendors selling goods by the roadside, it offers a vibrant and convivial shopping experience. Good buys include textiles,handicrafts, souvenirs and handmade tribal products. You can bargain for better prices.

High quality silk, textiles, gold or silver articles are available only in upmarket shops or hotels.

2 DON'TS

1. Do not eat street food. Eat and drink only at places which practise acceptable standards of cleanliness.

Take along a medical kit, including mosquito repellent, as a precaution in a country where the public health standard is inadequate.

2. Do not lose your temper if the service standard in some restaurants, shops or other establishments does not meet your expectations.

If you are curt or aggressive, you will forfeit the staff's respect for you as a guest in their country. Accept that their ways may differ from yours and all will be fine.

The writer is a retired lawyer.

Photos by Lam Pin Foo and Ng Pock Liok