IMAGINE this scenario: You are bargaining with a shopkeeper for a good deal on some T-shirts. You don't speak his language. He barely speaks yours.

He punches a number into his calculator. You counter with a lower figure via the same calculator. He finally agrees, smiles and packs up the T-shirts. And as you pay him, he and his wife ask you to join them for dinner.

This happens in Krabi. If Thailand is known as the land of a thousand smiles, this beach resort in the southern part takes friendly to another level.

And for travellers weary of the hard-sell approach of more commercial tourist spots in Thailand - think Phuket's tout-infested Patong beach - this is a welcome break.

The people who seem to know this the best are the Scandinavians. They have almost adopted Krabi, arriving in such droves during the peak season - November to May - that shops and restaurants advertise in Swedish and German, too.

There are more reasons to take that one hour and 40-minute flight to Krabi.

The crystal-clear water, for one thing. While Ao Nang is the 'happening' place when it comes to nightlife, food and shopping, it pays the price with some pollution at the beach.

But a short ride in a longtail boat will get you to spots like Rai Lay and Ton Sai, where the beach is glistening sand and the water is so clear that you can stand chest-deep and admire your toes.

The beach-front resorts are tempting, too. Spread over more land than in crowded spots like Phuket, places like Krabi La Playa Resort and Ao Nang Resort are luxurious and packed with landscaped pools and swim-up bars.

Room rates start from around 3,800 baht (S$161) for a standard room (most offer a sea view).

Even relatively secluded Rai Lay beach offers classy accommodation at Sand Sea Resort, where rates start from 3,700baht. These places may not have the chrome-and-glitter finish of the five-star resorts, but they more than make up for it with attentive service, sparkling cleanliness and warm hospitality.

But, eventually, it is the people of Krabi - it has a population of 345,000 - who make it special. As if to prove that the shopkeeper and his wife are not the only ones with a smile and open hearts, the cabby who drives me to Krabi airport steals my heart too.

He chats throughout the half-hour drive, acting as an impromptu tour guide. And he drops me off at the departure area with a smile.

About 20 minutes later, after I have checked in for my flight back to Singapore, I bump into him inside the terminal building. And he smiles, asking if everything is fine - and offers to buy me a cup of coffee.

How can I not go back to this place?

5 things to do

1. If you've had enough of the sun and sea, head inland to Krabi Town or the Huay Toh National Park, which has a seven-tiered waterfall, or even the hot springs, where you can soak in a natural jacuzzi. The adventurous can hop onto local buses (fares range from 15 to 40 baht, or 60 Singapore cents to S$1.65, for a one-way trip), but the better option may be a tuk-tuk (150 to 400 baht for a one-way trip) or a private taxi (around 1,800 baht for the day).

2. Book a full- or half-day tour to the many islands dotting the Krabi sealine. You get to see clown fish (yes, Nemo), other varieties of reef fish and turtles. If you scuba dive, you could even chance upon barracuda and black tip reef sharks. The evening trips end with a spectacular view of the sunset from the boat. Some trips offer meals and drinks. Prices start from 850 baht.

3. If you like the water, but prefer to stay dry, try a kayaking trip where you explore mangrove forests at Ao Thalane, the Krabi canyon and check out caves in the limestone cliffs in Bor Thor and Ao Luk. Some trips even take you to picturesque Hong Island. Prices start from 750 baht.

4. If you're there to just catch some R&R (that's beach talk for rays and rest), head for Rai Lay beach which offers plenty of sand lapped at gently by clear blue water. Spread a towel, slather some sunscreen, pull on the sunnies and you're ready to roast. The 15-minute ride by longtail boat from Ao Nang costs 60 baht per head.

5. For those who want to dangle from high places, Ton Sai beach beckons with its cliffs that test even the most experienced rock climbers. Beginners can sign up for courses that teach you how to navigate those sheer rockfaces. Prices range from 800 baht (half-day course) to 5,000 baht (three-day course).

2 don'ts

1. The rocky outcrops that jut out into the sea are riddled with openings that promise mystery and adventure, but they can be very dangerous.

Some openings may seem large enough for you to comfortably explore, but they can narrow down dramatically inside, making it very difficult to retrace your steps if you have gone too far in. More importantly, what seems like safe dry rock can quickly become a wet nightmare as the tide comes in.

If you want to explore caves, hire a local guide. Not only will he show you the safer and more spectacular ones, but he will also be able to get you out before the tide comes in.

2. Unless you have a cast-iron stomach or have built up immunity through years of living in these areas, you are better off buying bottled water every time you work up a thirst.

Bottled water, ranging from imported spring varieties to local purified versions, is available at every provision store, so stock up as soon as you check in. Even when mixing drinks, it is better to use soda or bottled water.