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BRENDA BENEDICT
Sun, May 11, 2008
The Star
Whither manners?

SAMBAL ON THE SIDE

Incongruous images are common in Hanoi these days - a sleek Jaguar standing amidst a multitude of revving motorbikes or someone manoeuvring a Mini Cooper convertible on busy Hai Ba Trung Street.

Why incongruous? Well, because on Hanoi's already choked narrow streets where peddlers, pedestrians and cyclo drivers jostle for space, I am amazed to see cars manufactured to speed on Autobahns in the midst of this mayhem.

Perhaps the incongruity would hit home better when you think about how in 1985, table-fans and televisions were considered luxury items and basic necessities were still being rationed. In 1985, I was singing along to 'Do They Know It's Christmas' on my headphones.

Doi Moi (renovation) was introduced the following year and Vietnam's economy has soared ever since, with the numbers of the nouveau riche rising dramatically.

This economic boom couldn't be better represented than by the flourishing luxury market. One local mag recently asked how Louis Vuitton can market a US$3,500 (RM11,000) handbag to a nation where per capita GDP is less than US$900 (RM2,800). It went on to say that annual turnovers for Giordano, Bossini, Valentino and Mango are growing by 20% to 30%. Every time I pass by the road ringing Hoan Kiem Lake, I notice new swanky shops boasting designer labels. One day it's Nine West, the next, Calvin Klein.

Even Parkson has set up shop on Thai Ha Street stocking Giorgio Armani, Aigner and Evita Peroni. It is Hanoi's largest shopping mall.

A much reported story earlier this year was of a real-estate tycoon in Ho Chi Minh City who spent US$1.5mil (RM4.7mil) on a custom-made Rolls-Royce Phantom 2008. What's more, she had it air-mailed to her on a China Airlines flight!

Apparently, in the days of the old system, people went to great lengths to hide their wealth. In fact, it was almost uncouth to flaunt your wealth. Therefore, some theorise that this reflects a new phenomenon of wanting to show off wealth. Businessmen have stated that they believe they will earn the respect of their counterparts by the expensive suits they wear and cars they drive.

The 'Rolls Royce lady' was reported in The Economist to have said that her purchase 'will show the world that Vietnam is not a country of poverty and war, but a lucrative market

To be fair, those who live by the motto 'you are what you wear' can be found anywhere in the world.

My only comment is, 'More power to you'.

However, sometimes, the more 'materially conspicuous' you are, the more you set yourself up for adverse scrutiny by those around you. There are mutterings on how some could acquire enormous wealth so rapidly. And then there are grumblings about their lack of social etiquette.

For instance, honking incessantly is a way of life here. In fact, you would be odd if your horn is not already amalgamated to your hand. Honking non-stop along the entire length of the busy Kim Ma Street on your motorbike is probably not going to irk many. But doing it in your large Toyota SUV (with flashing headlights to boot) could have many staring daggers at you.

Apparently, my friend's Vietnamese companion who witnessed this incident described the driver as 'proud because he got big car'.

A week back, my husband and I were travelling in a taxi on Yen Phu street when traffic slowed down to a crawl. We assumed an accident had taken place. As we inched forward, we finally saw what was holding us up - two men driving a sleek, silver Mercedes convertible (with the hood down, of course) were chatting up a couple of girls riding their motorbike alongside the car.

They were oblivious to the fact that they were the cause of the jam. Anywhere else, they would have been slapped with a ticket. Here, they probably got a date. Our taxi driver merely spat, 'Khong tot!' (Not good).

I guess these and other examples prompted one of our older Vietnamese friends to say: "These people may have the money but not the manners."

Having lived through the American War and experienced hardship himself, he does not begrudge those who have now made it. However, he feels that this newly acquired wealth is slowly chipping away at previously admirable qualities like humility and consideration for others. But then again, his statement could be dismissed as merely old-school.

After all, with the country being christened 'Asia's new economic powerhouse', more and more people are surely going to move up the income bracket. I guess eventually everyone here will slowly get accustomed to this new way of living big with its attendant pros and cons.

And perhaps then, trying to be inconspicuous may be the new incongruity here.

Brenda Benedict is a Malaysian living in Hanoi. She enjoys people-watching as it gives her fodder for this fortnightly column.

She recently spotted what she swears is a Hummer near her neighbourhood.

 

 
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