THE tropical Indonesian island of Bali is best known as a beach destination. Kuta Beach is up there with the region's best but once you move from the sandy foreshores and head off along the back roads, there's much more to discover.
The culture, dominated by the island's predominantly Hindu religion, is difficult to escape as it pervades most activities. On most days there's a ceremony somewhere on the island as religion is still very much part of everyday life.
For example, when a child is born or an old person passes away, the whole village participates in a ceremony that not only affects that community but also those passing through. Bali's natural beauty is another reason why tourists keep returning to this island paradise.
Between the breakers and the mountain peaks, river valleys covered in colourful rice fields are common.
Balinese Wave
Much of Bali is surrounded by coral reefs which don't always make for the best swimming beaches, but the tropical setting is unbeatable.
The best waves and beaches are located around Kuta, Legian and Jimbaran Bay, with Kuta the most famous and therefore the most crowded. Its beachfront is lined with restaurants, resorts and vendors trying to sell almost anything - if you don't like crowds, choose another beach.
Jimbaran has several luxury resorts and the bay is lined with seafood restaurants serving barbecued seafood for lunch and dinner.
You can't beat the location - on the sand with the sun setting on the horizon, then the stars appear - it's quite magical. Each restaurant's as good as the next but a personal favourite is Antar Kafe, half-way along the sweeping beach.
They offer a discount if you speak a little Bahasa and don't look like a tourist. Continue past the Ngurah Rai International Airport and between here and Seminyak, there are beaches, restaurants, bars and resorts.
Dine in the well-established Kafe Warisan located in a floodlit padi field or at La Lucciola on the northern end of Seminyak. Ku De Ta has attained legendary status for its contemporary cuisine and as a great place to chill out later in the evening.
None of these places come cheaply and for those on a budget, wandering along Jalan Laksmana or simply Eat Street provides plenty of dining options.
Fields Of Rice
When you're all beached or clubbed out, it's time to head for the hills. While sitting at one of the beachside restaurants of Jimbaran, it's hard to ignore the mountainous peaks of Mount Batur (1,717m) and Agung (3,014m) looming above the cloud line off in the distance.
While past volcanic eruptions have been destructive to life and property, they remain a source of life for the Balinese in that they provide water and volcanic soil that is deposited after each eruption.
This is best reflected in the fields of rice that cover most patches of spare land.
The fields start appearing in the foothills on the road to Ubud. Rice isn't only the staff of life but the cultivation of rice is ingrained into the life cycle of farmers.
Fed by mountain springs and distributed by a network of ancient canals, year-round water is important for the survival of padi plants. Each community is part of a subak or water co-operative that ensures a regular and equitable distribution of water.
Scenic rice terraces around Tegalalang on the road to Kintamani and Mount Batur are some of the most picturesque. The road from Kuta to Ubud is lined with shops selling every conceivable product. Villages once concentrated on a specific craft but now most shops sell various souvenirs. Villages such as Tegaltamu (stone carvings), Celuk (silver), Singapadu (masks), Sukawati (art) and Mas (wood carvings) are worth visiting.
To see these villages, you need mobility and this means an organised tour, renting your own vehicle or simply hiring a taxi. Taxi drivers are used to rushing around, so get a guidebook, tell the drivers where to stop and tell him to drive slowly so you can see and photograph the countryside.
Cultural Heartland
Ubud is the heartland of Balinese culture. Art, culture and heritage reign supreme here as it has for centuries and well before western artists discovered Ubud's charm and brought it to the attention of a wider audience.
The climate is cooler here making Ubud Bali's chill out, hippy hang. Longtime visitors take time over daily activities - time for coffee, yoga, massage, vegetarian lunch, listen to gamelan orchestras, learn traditional dances or walk amongst the rice terraces.
The hippies of the 60s and 70s blazed the tourist trail and now many return, more financially endowed than in the heady days of peace, love and understanding.
Come for a spiritual journey involving body, mind and soul and a string of smart resorts have opened to cater their every whim.
Today's sophisticated resort traveller seeks out the likes of Amandari (www.amanresorts.com), Four Seasons Sayan (www.fourseasons.com) and Pita Maha (www.pitamaha-bali.com). A personal favourite is Alila Ubud (www.alilahotels.com) renowned for its intimacy and picturesque location above the forested Agung River valley. The swimming pool also wins my award for one of the world's best pools as its black tiles blend into the surroundings of the lush forests.
Stay in Ubud a few days and you'll quickly find it's the place for leisurely breakfast and lunches.
A longtime favourite is Cafe Lotus on the main street next to the serene Pura Saraswati Temple. Lotus has been here forever and it's worth dropping by for a refreshing Bali jamu drink and salads like chicken and avocado. Opposite is the open-sided Ary's Warung and down the road, past the markets is Cafe Moka serving a delicious selection of coffees, teas, snacks and pastries. As well as restaurants, the streets are lined with galleries, artisan shops and boutiques.
Mountain Kingdom
All roads north from Ubud ultimately end up at the towering peak of Mt Abang (2,153m) and its massive volcanic crater. Mt Batur is more popular with the view from Penelokan on the crater rim down into the crater and across Batur and Abang being one of the great sights in Bali.
Most visitors seem content to view the mountains on a day trip from the beaches but for those who like getting high in Bali, there are many more activities here than just sitting at a restaurant peering into the crater.
These mostly involve walking and this invariably means climbing, so if you're not fit, stay in the restaurant. The village of Toya Bungkah on the western foreshores of Lake Batur is the starting point for the mountain climb and there are several operators who will provide guides at RM40 (S$17) per person.
There's much more to Bali than the breakers alone. Go along Bali's back roads to discover why the island is still considered by many to epitomise a tropical island paradise.
Getting There
AirAsia, Malaysia Airlines and Garuda International all fly to Denpasar, Bali. From the airport, it's easy to get about Bali by public transport.
Where To Stay
There's a plethora of accommodation options for all budgets. Budget losmans tend to be down the back lanes off the main streets but facilities are normally good. Choosing your location is important with the best beach areas being Jimbaran, Kuta, Legian, Seminyak, Sanur and Nusa Dua. For a cultural experience, choose Ubud. For a mountainous experience, stay in Kintamani. If money is no obstacle, stay in one of the following: The Elysian, Seminyak (www.theelysian.com) or the Conrad Bali (www.ConradHotels.com).
Tips
Have R150,000 (RM53/S$22) ready for the departure tax when leaving Denpasar Airport. While it's possible to hire vehicles, make sure the hire includes insurance cover as the roads are narrow and driving conditions can be challenging. Hiring a taxi is far easier.
