METRO Manila is a crowded urban jungle and everywhere you turn, heavy traffic and congested roads abound. Public transportation is the jeepney, a remnant of the military jeep from the United States from World War II. Another is the kelesas, a horse-drawn carriage that stands out among a sea of motorised vehicles in Binondo.
We made a stop at Rizal Park. It was not part of the itinerary but the tour guide felt unpatriotic not taking first-time visitors to the monument of the country's national hero José Rizal.
Often called "pride of the Malayan race", Rizal was a fervent crusader of Filipino nationalism and he opposed Spanish colonialism. He was later convicted of sedition and executed at the age of 35 in 1896.
In Chinatown, we were handed over to flamboyant Ivan, who took us to the Big Binondo Food Wok. Theatrical and passionate, Ivan gave us an unforgettable history lesson as we munched our way through the streets of Binondo.
Established in 1594, Binondo is the oldest Chinatown in the world. Most of the Chinese-Filipinos or Chinoys descended from migrants from Fujian province.
Steeped in old-world charm, Binondo's streets may be narrow and dirty, but they hold plenty of mystique. The rundown structures are evidence of rich historical significance.
We started at the Binondo Church or Minor Basilica of St Lorenzo Ruiz, one of the oldest churches in the country. Lorenzo Ruiz is the first Filipino saint to be venerated.
The streets are dotted with interesting eateries and shops, and one of our early stops was the La Resurreccion Chocolate.
Who would have thought that somewhere in Chinatown lies a dingy chocolate factory that makes delicious
tsokolate, a Filipino beverage the Spaniards brought with them.
Even under the scorching sun, we enjoyed the warm bitter beverage. Sold in rolls, each costs about PHP58
(S$1.76). Simply stir the cocoa pastilles in boiling water and enjoy.
The next stop was the Eng Bee Tin Chinese Deli at Ongpin Street. Eng Bee Tin is well known for its hopia,
which is a bean-filled pastry. This is similar to the mung bean-filled tau sau piah. But the hopia here is much sweeter and richer and Eng Bee Tin injects the pastry with newfangled flavours such as the ube (yam) and its
latest, mochaccino.
Run by the same owner is Cafe Mezzanine, a volunteer fireman's cafe. The outlet serves foods such as kiampong,
which is salted rice garnished with peanuts and crunchy fried garlic, and fishball soup. Chinoys are famous for
their volunteer fire brigades and true to its spirit, the café is decked with pictures of fire engines and fireman's hats.
While Singaporeans are not unfamiliar with these dishes, it is nevertheless fascinating to learn how Chinese cuisine has evolved elsewhere in the world.
At a Chinese shrine, people offer joss sticks to a crucifix, signifying the merging of Chinese religion and Catholicism.
Through this walking food tour, Ivan revealed a side of Manila that not many know about. He brought us to
a Chinese shrine at a street corner. The people there prayed and offered joss sticks to a crucifix - signifying the merging of Chinese religion and Catholicism. They even tossed the crescent-shaped tablets, used in Chinese religious rituals, to reach out to the spirits.
Next was Tagaytay City, which is about 60km south of Manila. We visited the Gourmet Farm, which grows
vegetables such as iceberg lettuce, romaine lettuce and arugula, and herbs such as parsley, tarragon, rosemary.
The café here serves Italian delights like pasta, woodfired pizzas and salads. Fresh organic produce, teas, sauces and spreads are available too. The 8ha Gourmet Farm roasts its own coffee beans, and you can savour exotic Barako, which means "wild boar" coffee, grown only in the Philippines.
Another idyllic escape tucked away here is Sonya's Garden. The bed and breakfast cottage is an enclave on its own, with two restaurants, a spa, bed and breakfast lodgings and a bakery.
The sanctuary offers guests tranquillity with its healthy organic foods, relaxing massages and beautiful blooms. From country-styled designs to kitsch and colourful chandeliers, its owner Sonya personally saw to every aspect of the décor.
At the restaurant, for PHP560, you can get a wholesome meal. Patrons are served healthy salads and pastas. The salads are lavish with freshly harvested lettuce, arugula and seasonal edible flowers, with small servings of mango, jackfruit, pineapple, broad beans and egg. Just as lovely is the al dente pasta that is accompanied by an array of toppings and dressings: chicken cream with mango, ratatouille, sun-dried tomato, salmon belly, mushrooms, black olives, capers or anchovies. The mildly sweet and tart dalandan juice (citrus orange juice) cleanses the palate and is very refreshing.
Desserts include a sinful chocolate fudge cake, fried banana rolls and sweet potatoes drizzled with syrup. True to its nourishing mantra, the meal ends with a cup of fragrant tarragon tea, which has digestive and antirheumatic properties.
Tagaytay is also home to the Taal volcano, the smallest but most active volcano in the world. Unfortunately, we were jinxed by bad weather and the volcano was obscured by fog.
This article was first published in The Straits Times Special by Special Projects Unit, Marketing Division, SPH on September 16, 2008.
