by Dawn Tay

QUIET TIME: A nun meditates in the shadow of the famous Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon. Covered to its tip in gold leaf, the pagoda draws hundreds of merit-seeking devotees daily.

IN 1898, British author Rudyard Kipling famously wrote that Myanmar - then known as Burma - is "quite unlike any land you know about". And today, that statement still rings true.

Holidaying in Myanmar might be viewed as a travel taboo now, due to international displeasure over the ongoing trial of pro-democracy leader Aung San Suu Kyi by the country's military government.

But despite a strict military regime in Myanmar, seasoned travellers weary of the usual Asian tourist traps will find the Golden Land still exudes a surreal tranquillity.

In part, the nation's long history with Buddhism sees one mapping its many trails of devotion.

The city of Bagan - boasting the ancient ruins of over 2,000 stupas and pagodas - pays homage to the nation's devotion to religion. Misshapen Buddhas plastered with gold-leaf sheets sit in glittering temples.

In Mandalay city, Mahagandayone monastery - the largest in Myanmar - offers a glimpse of monastic life. Each morning, over 1,200 monks move in graceful, snaking queues for rice doled out by volunteers.

But the real attraction of Myanmar is its people. Many are surprisingly unscarred by historic bloody demonstrations (such as the failed monk uprising in 2007 that led to the arrest of thousands of monks) and natural disasters, like Cyclone Nargis last May.

LITTLE BUDDHA: A lone boy monk looks out of the old teak monastery of Shwe Kyaung in Mandalay. Myanmar is home to over 400,000 monks, some as young as five years old.

While an old Burmese saying has it that "If you truly want honesty, don't ask questions you don't really want the answer to", conversation with the gentle people unearthed a non-ironic sense of humour - even on the sensitive topic of politics.

One Burmese temple devotee responded to my awe-struck remark on how much gold is used in the country's temples.

SUNSET BOULEVARD: Sunsets are a big draw for tourists, who flock to Mandalay Hill daily to catch the setting sun.

"Yes, our country is rich - just not its people," he said candidly.

And the Myanmarese, even in large cities, remain true to their old-world culture.

In the country's former capital of Yangon, men and women still dress in traditional sarong-like longyis.

Women and children smear their cheeks with thanaka - a yellow cream made from limonia trees that act as both a sunblock and for cosmetic purposes. When men smiled at me, they revealed teeth stained a shocking red by their fetish for betel leaves.

Travel farther into the heart of Myanmar and one finds even more treasures - and people to visit.

One magical place is Inle Lake in Shan state, where mountains flank the lakeshore and villages stand on stilts.

Inle is home to the Inthar, one of Myanmar's ethnic minorities. The "sons of the lake", as they are called, are famed for their unusual method of rowing with one leg, leaving their hands free for their main trade - fishing.

There, I took a boat ride among the rushes to find the Padaung - or "long neck" women. Girls as young as five have their necks fitted with brass coils in cultural symbols of beauty.

Photo gallery

Only around 7,000 of the Padaung - a subgroup of a minority group, the Karen - are said to be left in Myanmar - the rest have fled to the Thailand border because of conflict with the government.

Despite the oft-publicised unrest in Myanmar, I was drawn to the inexplicable peace the place exuded. Perhaps as a tourist, I was shielded from the daily conflicts.

But upon my return to Singapore, I found myself, like Kipling, yearning to take the road to Mandalay soon.

dawnt@sph.com.sg

Photos: my paper, Dawn Tay

CHASING THE LOTUS: A weaver works on lotus-root fibre in a lotus-thread factory. Fibre from the plants is used to make bags, scarves and other accessories.

For more my paper stories click here.