Travel @ AsiaOne

The sky is the limit

Three friends share how they roughed it out to the Annapurna Base Camp in Nepal
Alvin Lai

Tue, Apr 18, 2006
The Straits Times

AGE is no barrier to conquering Nepal's Annapurna Base Camp (ABC). Well, at least not for Mr Sim Kok Hwee, 57, Ms Foo Eng Tin, 55, and Ms Jennifer Tan, 45.

Recalling the trek that took them to the 4,130m-high ABC six years ago, the trio described it as "a relaxing and rollicking good time".

Not the first time
Perhaps they had the advantage of being 'experienced' trekkers, having completed the Annapurna Circuit in 1990. Then, having survived that somewhat harrowing experience: wall-hugging the mountains while inching along a precipice to get to the other side, the group of 28 promised to meet 10 years later to do it all over again.

Not unexpectedly, only a handful of the original group, including the trio, managed to keep the promise. Nevertheless, they took on new members and formed a group of 18. This time, their aim was to do the ABC trek, arguably Nepal's most famous and popular trek.

"ABC wasn't as challenging, but it was much more interesting," said Ms Tan, "because it was more relaxing and scenic."

Ready for ABC

Upon arrival at the capital Kathmandu, the group spent two days exploring the city, while at the same time getting acclimatised before the ascent.

Acclimatisation is necessary to prevent acute mountain sickness (AMS), a common condition caused by a lack of oxygen at high altitude. It affects mountain climbers who ascend too rapidly when they are at altitudes of 2,500m and above.

The trek begins

The real trek began on Day Three. Even then, it was not a case of all trek and no play.

In fact, the trio shared that they felt like royalty, due in part that the group had an entourage of 18 Nepalese serving them as guides, cooks and porters.

Typically, the day started with a briefing on the itinerary, followed by a sumptuous breakfast comprising piping hot tea and high-carbohydrate meals, including bread and noodles. This was to ensure that the trekkers had energy to last at least the next couple of hours before their next meal.

In fact, the trio admitted unabashedly that meal times were often the highlights of the day. While day meals were eaten on laid mats, dinners were always a grand affair, with tables and chairs, and even dining tents set up.

Meals aside, the trio said that their trip this time was more enjoyable, also because the group decided to pay for water, which cost $2 per bucket. "This means we could clean ourselves during the trip," Ms Foo laughed. "On our first trek, none of us took baths!"

An easier journey, however, did not spare one member from AMS, who had to be piggybacked by two porters for the rest of the journey. Mr Sim recalled: "Once you get AMS, you have to descend. Some people persist, and that can lead to death. When you have this sickness, you're basically not getting enough oxygen, and you start to lose your judgment."

Nevertheless, the remaining 17 reached ABC successfully and were rewarded with a spectacular view of the mountain ranges.

Regrettably, due to the extreme cold, they could stay only one night before making their descent to Pokhara, a small city situated at 827m above sea level and 200km west of Kathmandu valley.

In retrospect
While the trip cost just over $1,000, the trio agreed that they could not put a price to the experience. Mr Sim elaborated: "I've always liked to look at mountains, and one of the main reasons for going back to Nepal was to enjoy the serenity."

He explained that though the group travelled as one, they often broke up into smaller parties, with the slower ones or those who simply wanted to enjoy the scenery falling back. When you walk at a different pace, there are moments when you find yourself totally alone. It's just the mountains, the wind, the sky and you. That kind of feeling is very unique. It's also a good time for reflection and contemplation.

If you, too, yearn for the great outdoors, it is never too late, and you are never too old to scale the mountains in Nepal.

Alvin Lai is a freelance writer.

 

 
 
 
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