BY: Wendy Wells

WHEN we booked the skiing holiday in May, the Australian media was full of reports of crowds flocking to the mountains to frolic amid an unseasonably early blanketing of snow and forecasts of a bumper ski season to follow.

When we arrived a month later, on the official opening weekend of the Australian ski season, there was not a drop of the white stuff to be seen anywhere in the country.

In fact, the weather was so mild, we whiled away the first few days paddling at Melbourne's St Kilda beach while waiting for the okay to hit the slopes. When it had not arrived by mid-week, we hired a car and set off for the mountains anyway.

The good thing about Australian ski resorts, aside from providing an off-season alternative to their more famous cousins in Europe, North America and North Asia that coincides with Singapore school holidays, is that they are all
within a few hours' drive of the major cities of Sydney, Melbourne and Canberra.

The other good thing is that because they enjoy snow for a maximum of five months a year, they offer a wide selection of other activities and distractions for those either not keen on skiiing or unlucky enough to time their visit with a bout of unseasonably balmy weather, like we did.

The resort we visited, Mount Buller, even offers a "no snow guarantee" on all bookings. So you simply cancel reservations without penalty if it is not snowing on the day you are due to arrive and explore other areas within a few hours' drive of Melbourne instead.

After finding few packages available in Singapore to the south-eastern state of Victoria's seven alpine resorts, we opted to rent a car in Melbourne and make the easy three-hour drive up the Maroondah Highway to the most accessible one, Mount Buller, ourselves.

First stop was the picturesque town of Mansfield. Situated at the bottom of Mount Buller, it is overshadowed by its glamorous high-altitude neighbour and projects a slight sense of resentment towards the "townies" from Melbourne who drive through en route to the slopes without changing down gears.

But it also boasts some great reasonably priced hotels and a convenient daily shuttle service to the mountain if you
are trying to keep costs down.

For the fact is, even aside from the Australian dollar being almost on par with the US dollar and at 1.3 to the Singapore dollar, skiing is not a poor man's pastime.

A lift ticket costs A$94 (S$124) a day, A$50 for kids, and the rental of skis, boots, poles and warm weather gear can easily exceed A$200 a person. Add in lessons, meals and a night in even the most reasonably priced chalet and you are looking at A$1,000 for a two-night stay by the average family.

Having said that, you get what you pay for in terms of accommodation and rates are considerably lower mid-week if you are able to avoid the hordes of local tourists who throng the resort on weekends.

At the top end, the Breathtaker on High retreat boasts fantastic suites that range from A$320 mid-week for a two-person studio apartment to A$1,765 for a grand suite that can sleep up to 10.

One of the cosiest options in the lower price range is the Duck Inn, where rates range from A$60 for a bunk bed in a shared room to A$320 for two-person room with ensuite.

Guests are encouraged to spend their post-ski time in the inn's living and dining areas rather than in their rooms. These are filled with cosy sofas, board games, open fireplaces and a bewildering array of duck ornaments from all over the world.

Children eating in the inn's Drake restaurant are given a polystyrene duck to decorate and add to the collection that lines the picture rail around the room.

Like all other hotels and chalets at Mount Buller, both are a short ski from the chairlift at the main slope - one of 24 at the resort - as well as the restaurants and other attractions it has to offer.

Given the absence of snow during our visit, these other attractions ably filled our time. We went rock climbing at the gymnasium, toured the museum and took a scenic ride on the resort's new A$6-million, six-seater high-speed chairlift that runs from the town centre to the top of the main slope.

And the snow, we were repeatedly assured, will come, with August and September traditionally recording the biggest falls.

In fact, it snowed the day after we left. And after a slow start, the Australian ski season has kicked into high gear in recent days. More than 11cm of snow fell at Mount Buller yesterday. Snow cover was described as extensive and skiing conditions excellent.

All 23 lifts on the mountain were operating.

Follow trail of Chinese miners

IF YOU are forced to take advantage of the "no snow guarantee" like we were, the so-called Chinese Culture Trail through the historic goldfields to the west of the alpine range is an enjoyable last-minute alternative.

During the region's gold rush in the 1850s, more than 25,000 Chinese migrants flocked to the area and their legacy is still much in evidence today.

Starting at Bendigo, about a 90-minute drive north of Melbourne and in its heyday the richest city in the world, check out the Golden Dragon Museum, reputed to be one of the finest Chinese diaspora museums in the world, the Classical Chinese Gardens next door, the 1860s-era Joss House and the White Hills Cemetery that features elaborate
historic tombs of the earliest and most successful Chinese miners.

Then catch the historic tram car to the Central Deborah Gold Mine, where you can go 60m underground to experience the harsh life of a miner and later try panning for gold yourself.

Then weigh down your suitcase with a new dinner set from the historic Bendigo Pottery.

At the other point of the triangle with Bendigo and Melbourne is Ballarat, another gold rush town that makes a point to preserve and remember the Chinese contribution to its success.

It is also home to Sovereign Hill, a recreation of a sprawling 1860s mining town complete with a working mine, foundry, blacksmith and bakery.

The children in my group particularly enjoyed this, especially the lessons in the old schoolhouse, interacting with the actors playing local townsfolk, the horse and buggy rides and panning for gold in the creek.

Don't worry if you cannot find any of the flecks of gold that are sprinkled daily into the water. There are plenty for sale in the gift shop and at the Gold Museum across the road.

Both regional cities have prominent tourist information centres staffed by energetic volunteers who border on being overly keen to load you down with brochures and advice.

The website, visitgoldfields.com.au, also provides an extensive list of accommodation options and attractions if you prefer to book in advance.

This article was first published in Life!, The Straits Times on July 22, 2008.