Travel @ AsiaOne

Italian Renaissance

The Tuscan city of Florence is a treasure trove of art and architecture. -SPU

Tue, Aug 05, 2008
Special Projects Unit

BY: WAN HUI YUEN

LOCATED in Tuscany, central Italy, Florence is a historic city, largely rebuilt during the Renaissance period (14th to 16th centuries).

Renowned for its remarkable art scene and architectural sights, and just two-and-a-half hours by train from Rome, it is compact and easy to get around on foot.

I recommend a walking tour starting at the Piazza Del Duomo where the iconic Duomo or Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore takes pride of place. It took six centuries for the cathedral to be completed, and Italian architect Filippo Brunelleschi achieved much acclaim for constructing the largest dome of its time (completed in 1436), without scaffolding. It became a symbol of the new, revolutionary Renaissance architecture that outshone even the most prominent buildings of ancient Greece and Rome.

If you have stamina, traipse up 463 steps to the top of the towering dome and enjoy a stunning view of the city. On the way up, I stopped to see wonderfully restored frescoes of the Last Judgment by Italian painters Giorgio Vasari and Federico Zuccari. Splashed across the inner dome are magnificent frescoes of the apocalypse, the risen Lord, angels, saints and the elect.

It's easy to get around Florence on foot.

The adjacent Baptistry is one of Florence's oldest buildings (possibly dating to the 4th or 5th century). Its famous bronze doors by sculptor and goldsmith Lorenzo Ghiberti are often regarded as the earliest products of the Renaissance.

Dubbed by Michelangelo as Gate of Paradise, the doors feature carvings of Adam and Eve, Noah, Abraham and the sacrifice of Isaac and other biblical depictions.

From the Duomo, I walked towards Piazza della Signoria - the political heart of the city since the Middle Ages and venue for ancient public rallies and festivities. This is the spot where Palazzo Vecchio (Old Palace), Florence's town
hall, still stands. There is also an outdoor sculpture gallery whose statues commemorate major events that occurred
in the city's history.

The highlights here are Ammannati's Mannerist fountain of the Roman sea god Neptune, and a replica of Michelangelo's David. The original statue was moved into the Galleria dell' Accademia (the Academy of Fine Arts) in 1873 to protect it from weather and pollution.

A few minutes away is the Galleria Degli Uffizi, the world's oldest museum (built in 1560 to 1580). Despite the snaking queue, it is worth the wait just to view some of the greatest Renaissance masterpieces - my patience was cultivated to saint-level over four hours; the book I brought to read helped.

In their heyday, Florence's wealthy Medici family members commissioned great Florentine artists to craft a spectrum of artwork which is showcased in this famous museum. Highlights include paintings such as Botticelli's Primavera and The Birth of Venus, Michelangelo's The Holy Family, and Leonardo Da Vinci's The Annunciation.

After exploring the Uffizi, I strolled along Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge) to the other side of the river. Built in 1345, this is the oldest bridge in Florence and the only one in the city to survive the bombings of World War II. The many shops lining the bridge specialise in new and antique jewellery.

From the bridge, I walked along the quiet lanes flanking the city walls towards the church of San Miniato al Monte. Perched on a hill in the southern part of the city, this is one of the finest examples of typical Florentine Romanesque architecture (first constructed around 1018 and completed in 1207). The striking facade features geometric patterns crafted in white Carrara and greyish green Prato marble.

San Miniato is an example of typical Florentine Romanesque architecture.

Not far from San Miniato is the lively Piazzale Michelangelo. Follow the path that leads down to the church of San Salvatore al Monte and walk down the steps to the Viale Galileo Galilei, then take a right turn to Viale Michelangelo.

Standing tall at the piazza is another replica of Michelangelo's David. Take in the panoramic view of Florence and check out the souvenir stalls before returning to the city. Follow the stone steps on the piazza's west side to Porta San Niccolo, a 14th century gateway to the city wall and then walk along the river to reach Ponte Vecchio.

Back in the city, in the heart of San Lorenzo street market is the two-storey Mercato Centrale, Florence's bustling
food market. This was the perfect place for me to scour for local cheeses, hams, freshly baked breads, blood orange and other fresh fruits.

Just within a stone's throw away is the Piazza di San Lorenzo which brims with stalls selling Italian leather goods, T-shirts, shawls and accessories.

The items are of fine quality and it's a great place to pick up a souvenir or two, or perhaps a local painting as a keepsake of this captivating city.

This article was first published in The Straits Times on July 31, 2008.

 
 
 
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