[top: The Great Sphinx pyramid of Giza in Cairo, Egypt.]

By Joy Paul Tharakan

Cairo - originally named Al Qahirah, which means the Triumphant City - is a confluence of striking contrasts and my journey on its roads is an introduction to this constant contradiction. The roads from the airport are broad and well preserved while the cars travelling on them are a mix of the latest BMWs and Mercedeses jostling for space alongside beat-up Fiats and Ladas from the 1960s.

Yet the odds of making it anywhere on time on these crowded roads are heavily stacked in favour of the battered cars rather than the BMW 525s whose drivers are focused more on avoiding collisions.

Soon after checking into the Mena House Oberoi, I go for my first reconnaissance of the pyramids of Giza. They are a majestic sight.

A Bedouin tent, part of the Bedouin culture in Cairo, Egypt.

But the Great Pyramid and the other two pyramids are located in a large complex which requires considerable time to explore. So the next morning, I set out early for my first real visit of the Great Pyramid. Although it is only a 10-minute walk from my hotel, I take a tour bus that comes with a licensed history and archaeology specialist as my guide.

Standing beside these great wonders, I truly appreciate the astonishing human endeavour that went into the design and building of these architectural marvels.

For those who do not suffer from claustrophobia or a weak lower back, a visit inside the pyramid is highly recommended. I pass on both counts, so I crawl through the narrow passageways to view the crypt of Khufu, in whose honour this pyramid was built.

Later, I visit the pyramids again. This time it is to experience the Bedouin culture. During dinner, I am entertained by beautiful belly dancers and pirouetting Tanoura dancers. It is followed by the spectacular Pyramid Light and Sound show.

For anyone who wants a crash course in Egyptian history, a day tour at the Egyptian Museum is a good place to start.

The museum's collection guides you from the Ancient Kingdom, through to the Middle and New Kingdoms, culminating at the section containing the artefacts from the tomb of Tutankhamun.

In the heart of Cairo is the Citadel, one of the world's greatest monuments to mediaeval warfare. It houses a large number of ancient mosques. Get an early start if you want to make the most of your visit.

Likewise, Coptic Cairo reveals the Christian history of Egypt - yet more evidence of the rich blend of culture, religion and history of this wonderful land.

Before it became an Islamic state, Egypt was predominantly Christian. The Coptic churches in Cairo are a testimony to that part of its history. Most of the Christian churches and monasteries are located outside Cairo.

For shopping, everyone I meet in Cairo highly recommends the Khan el Khalili market. But I am also advised to be prepared for long sessions of haggling.

Nothing can prepare you for the number of 'friends' you will find in Khan el Khalili. The moment I stare at a merchant's wares for more than three seconds, he claims to be my 'friend' and offers me his goods at a price that is meant only for a friend.

Once it becomes clear that I am not interested in his wares, he stops trying to sell his goods and instead shows keen interest in knowing and understanding more about my country and culture.

The more I engage in such conversations, the more I discover the Egyptians' rich sense of humour and how proud they are of their heritage.

Egypt is also a foodie's paradise. A perfect blend of Mediterranean, Arabic and African flavours defines its cuisine.

One could make a deeply satisfying meal from just the local bread, eesh baladi, which is made of wholewheat and caraway seeds, with various dips such as baba ganoush (eggplant) and foul mudammes (fava beans).

The rich soil of the River Nile grows some of the best fruits and vegetables. The street hawkers peddle the sweetest and juiciest apricots, peaches and watermelons.

I stop at one hawker and pick a dozen peaches and a punnet of apricots. Since I cannot understand the language, I open my wallet for him. He fishes out 5 Egyptian pounds (S$1.30) and is on his way with a smile and a slightly lighter cart.

stlife@sph.com.sg

Joy Paul Tharakan is a freelance writer.

This article was first published in The Straits Times.

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