If anyone were to ask me to name the Chinese dynasty that most captures my imagination, it would have to be the inventive and dynamic Han epoch that succeeded the short-lived Qin dynasty of the First Emperor, Qin Shihuangdi. And of the Han era, one of the most exciting periods is undeniably the reign of the "Martial Emperor" Han Wudi 2,100 years ago.

Though he is not quite as well known as the First Emperor, Wudi's contributions are no less significant. For while Qin Shihuangdi unified the Middle Kingdom, Han Wudi held off the voracious Huns (Xiongnu) and extended China's borders to Korea, Vietnam, the western regions (xiyu) comprising today's Xinjiang, and parts of central Asia.

Wudi's reign saw increased contact with peoples and cultures beyond the Han Empire and a lasting fascination with the powerful blood-sweating "heavenly horses" of Ferghana which helped strengthen Han military capabilities against the Xiongnu.

Of even greater significance, Wudi's loyal emissary Zhang Qian discovered the so-called Silk Road that facilitated trade between the Han and Roman empires. Zhang Qian's mission to forge an alliance with the far western kingdom of Yuezhi against the Huns failed. But through his travels he charted the previously unknown western regions, collecting information that was put to good use by Wudi who ruled from the imperial capital Changan.

I wanted to see for myself the places along the route so intimately tied to Han history and that absorbed so much of Wudi's attention. So, early this spring, together with some friends, I explored several Han dynasty outposts along the northern Silk Road in western China.

Our first stop was Urumqi, the most inland city in the world and the capital of Xinjiang region, home of the Uygurs and other Turkic minorities.

Urumqi's two million population is purportedly 80% Han, but besides Han characters, the Arabic alphabet used by the native Uygurs can be seen everywhere, especially on road signs.

I was told by my neighbour, an airline pilot, that Urumqi is a beautiful city. In recent years it has benefited from the Chinese government's campaign to develop the western regions. But aside from the shiny new buildings along the boulevards, I did not see anything particularly special about the place, and for the first time on my many trips to China, my pocket was picked while buying sweet almonds and walnuts at the International Grand Bazaar.

Peopled almost entirely by Uygurs and other Muslim minorities, the Bazaar was quite unlike anything I had encountered in China. Here I had my first taste of pomegranate juice - a refreshing, slightly tart, beetroot-coloured drink. Attracted by the tantalising aroma of exotic spices I followed my nose to the back of the Bazaar and found foodstalls heaped high with roast lamb, mutton shashlik, boiled sheep innards and platter-sized loafs of nan, the delectable Uygur bread.

By contrast, a world of natural beauty greeted us as we drove two hours east of Urumqi towards Tianchi, the fabled Heavenly Lake of Tianshan (Celestial Mountain). This place of legends is the inspiration of many wuxia (swordsman) novels and movies such as Seven Swords from Tianshan. The Celestial Mountain is also famous for its snow lotus - actually a variety of white peony - which only grows above the snow line; our guide said it has many curative properties which adds to the mystique of the mountain.

Kazak herdsmen still live in yurts (tents) near the streams on the slopes of Tianshan. We made an unscheduled visit to some round white yurts and found the interiors sparsely furnished with colourful carpets and an iron stove for heating. Many Kazaks have a fair, pink complexion which our guide attributed to their diet of bread and milk.

For our final ascent to Tianchi, 2,000 meters above sea level, we were given the choice of a buggy ride or an invigorating trek in the pure mountain air.

Walking along the wood-planked sidewalk amidst towering pine trees and snow-covered slopes, I looked forward to the deep blue waters I had seen in the brochures. But I was to be disappointed, for when I got to the Heavenly Lake there was only an expanse of ice that stretched as far as the eye could see. We were not able to take a boat ride as promised; nevertheless, the frozen lake fringed by majestic snow-dusted peaks was a breathtaking sight.

A Chinese myth has it that Xiwangmu, the Queen Mother of the West, entertained King Mu of the western Zhou dynasty to a feast at Tianchi. When she asked him when he would visit again, he said he would return after he had improved the lives of his people in the Central Plains.

Three thousand years later, Xiwangmu is still waiting for King Mu, but she can rest assured that many of his descendants will continue to visit her Heavenly Lake.

Ziying travels frequently to China in support of a school in a rural village. The country's rich culture and history are her lifetime passion. She can be contacted at ziyingster@gmail.com.