Travel @ AsiaOne

Guns, girls

Colorado in its 19th century heyday is a wild place. -SPU
Leong Phei Phei

Wed, Apr 23, 2008
The Straits Times

The dead come alive at Cripple Creek, a 19th century goldmine-turned-tourist spot in Colorado.

I know because when I was at the Pikes Peak Heritage Center, I came face to face with "Bob Womack", the legendary figure who discovered the rich gold ore in Cripple Creek in 1890, sparking what came to be known as the Gold Rush. At first, not realising who he was, I was piqued by his eccentric dress sense ' he was decked out in a crisp shirt with bow tie, well-starched jacket and crease-free trousers.

With his grey hair and moustache, he looked like he was in his 70s. And with his ambling gait and dreamy gaze, there was no question that he was out of this world.

Begin your discovery of Cripple Creek's colourful history at its District Museum.

"Howdy lady! It's lovely weather outside isn't it? Where we are now used to be bustling with activities in the past. Today, the Gold Rush is over, and the people are gone!" he said as he pointed me to a past but not forgotten world he saw from where we stood.

A pregnant pause later, as if awoken from a dream, he said: "Oh, how can I forget to introduce myself? My name is Bob Womack and I am the reason why you are here today!"

As the story goes, in 1890, Bob Womack, a ranch hand, scoured the south-west slope of Pikes Peak in search of gold.

His hunch paid off when he found gold in Poverty Gulch, soon to become the boomtown called Cripple Creek. For 20 years (between 1890 and 1910), Cripple Creek drew people from all over America who were looking for a better life.

In its heyday, Cripple Creek was home to about 50,000 residents who lived off the gold extracted in over 500 mines in Cripple Creek and the nearby Victor area.

Records showed that America's Greatest Gold Camp yielded more than 21 million ounces of gold, a quantity that exceeded the combined production of the California and Alaska Gold Rushes.

With growing prosperity, railroads were built, little towns sprang up in the mountains, and Cripple Creek became the financial hub of the region, attracting businesses such as saloons, boarding houses and stock exchanges.

"Ah! Those were the days!" the resurrected Bob Womack reminisced. "But all good things have to come to an end. Just after the turn of the century, the area's gold production began declining.

"That's when people started leaving - I mean, people of my generation. Nowadays, people like you, dressed in strange clothing, visit Cripple Creek not in search of gold, but for a slice of the old American West."

For visitors, the information-packed Pikes Peak Heritage Centre and the Cripple Creek District Museum are a great place to start. If you are lucky like me, you get to shake hands and talk to Bob Womack in person. If he is in the mood, he may even agree to a chit-chat session.

Come face to face with Bob Womack, the cowboy ranch hand who struck gold at Cripple Creek.

But don't stop there: Experience gold mining at Mollie Kathleen Mine nearby, get a glimpse of what prisoners were subjected to at the Outlaws & Lawmen Jail Museum, catch a show at the historic Butte Theater and visit the legendary Pearl DeVere at her Old Homestead.

Pearl DeVere who, you may ask. She was Cripple Creek's most famous prostitute and ran the area's most expensive parlour house, which has been restored to its former glory and opulence.

Girls at the Old Homestead came at a steep price - a night would have set you back by US$250 (S$338) - a luxury few could afford considering the average miner earned US$3 per day!

The other spot where time stands still is Buckskin Joe in Canon City, Colorado.

A popular family attraction, this is where gunfights, magic shows and saloon shows rule the day. The original town of Buckskin Joe, named after Joseph Higgenbottom, who wore buckskin clothing, is located about 90 miles north-west of its current location.

In 1957, the original buildings were moved to this new location. Today, Buckskin Joe features 27 restored frontier buildings and unique speciality shops, Wild West entertainment options and Colorado hospitality.

Mr Greg Tabuteu, general manager of Buckskin Joe, is particularly proud that over 20 films have been shot on location here.

"You can't get closer to the cowboy era than here," said Mr Tabuteu, who was dressed in cowboy gear.

I couldn't agree more. I was convinced that I had arrived in 19th century Colorado.

The writer travelled on a United Airlines flight to Colorado as part of a delegation led by the US Embassy in Singapore to attend the Go West Summit, a leading travel trade show covering 13 US states. Go West Summit 2008 was held from Jan 21 to 24 at The Broadmoor in Colorado Springs.

Photos by Leong Phei Phei

This article was first published in the Special Projects Unit, The Straits Times on April 22, 2008.

 
 
 
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